How do I remove the timing chain on a 350? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 07-14-2008, 10:56 AM
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How do I remove the timing chain on a 350?

I tried using search to find the answer, but came up zero.
I have to pull the timing chain (double row) and the sprockets off the cam and crankshaft on my Chevy 350.
The factory repair manual tells me to use special puller J 5825-A and tool J 5590 to hammer it back on the crank.
The illustrations show removal and reinstalling the sprockets on the engine without showing the chain attached. This puzzles me.
I do not want to put a puller around the chain, so what am I missing here?

Is it possible to remove the larger cam sprocket first to get it and the chain off?
Obviously I have never done this before.
Thanks for any help you can give me.........pg

Edit note: Opps, never mind. I read the manual more closely and it does tell me to remove the cam sprocket and chain first. So I will try that.

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Last edited by piniongear; 07-14-2008 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 07-14-2008, 11:35 AM
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You can unbolt the cam gear and pull off the gear and chain. You will most likely need a puller for the crank gear and an installation tool to re-install it.
A lot of people actually will heat the crank gear to expand it slightly for installation. You need to be quick with this method or it will be stuck half way. There are several tools available or you can make something up. DO NOT DRIVE THE CRANK GEAR ON, you will most likely damage something if you do.

Chet
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Old 07-14-2008, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
You can unbolt the cam gear and pull off the gear and chain. You will most likely need a puller for the crank gear and an installation tool to re-install it.
A lot of people actually will heat the crank gear to expand it slightly for installation. You need to be quick with this method or it will be stuck half way. There are several tools available or you can make something up. DO NOT DRIVE THE CRANK GEAR ON, you will most likely damage something if you do.

Chet
Thanks for the comment Chet.
Here is what the factory manual tells me to do regarding removing and installing the sprockets.
I agree, the last thing I want to do is hammer on a crankshaft, but that looks like a 2 pounder in the illustration.
I just removed the cam sprocket by backing up the gear and tapping gently on the camshaft end using a deep socket as a tool. It came right off, along with the chain.
I will (for now) leave the sprocket on the crank. I want to remove the crank and I assume I can do this leaving the sprocket on?
One question:
The engine is presently on a stand. How much room does it require to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal retainer? I have only about an inch or so of space between the retainer and the engine stand steel. I hope I do not have to take the block off the stand.
Thanks again.........pg
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Old 07-14-2008, 03:30 PM
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I did mine on the stand, it was tight but I got it done and it seems not to leak.

I have never seen anyone reputable pound a crank gear on. You can probably rent a tool or make one out of a piece of pipe and push it on using a bolt in the crank bolt hole. we used to heat them but I have also seen them pushed on.

CHet
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Old 07-14-2008, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
I have never seen anyone reputable pound a crank gear on. You can probably rent a tool or make one out of a piece of pipe and push it on using a bolt in the crank bolt hole. we used to heat them but I have also seen them pushed on.
CHet
I agree with you there, it's just that the factory repair manual say use a hammer.
The crank thread is 7/16-20, so I guess I could make a mandrel that would screw into the crank and then thread the other end to something like 7/8-9 TPI and put a 7/8 inch nut on it and try to draw the sprocket on. The crank end has a straight shaft with a keyway (two actually counting the one for the balancer) so I think it is going to be difficult lining up the slot with the key from so far away. Oh well, just another bridge to get across.

I could not get my seal retainer off. It needed another inch to clear, so I removed the crank and retainer together. Thanks...........pg
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Old 07-14-2008, 04:37 PM
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Well I just put a new timing chain on my 350. I originally had a pete jackson gear drive but had problems with it. You will not need to do a whole lot to change it out.

fBefore you take anything off make sure you have the cam gear and crank dots lined up with the top gear dot at 6 oclock and the crank gear at 12 noon. Here is a link to installing a timing chain.http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../sum-g6600.pdf

1st take off your top gear just loosen the three cam bolts then your top gear will be ready to pull off along with the chain. After your done with that you will be able to get your bottom gear off.

Go to your auto part store such as autozone or advance auto parts and either buy or rent a gear puller for around $30.00. I rented one myself . The gear puller will be used to remove the bottom gear. You can either use a two or three jaw puller. I used a basic sized two jaw one from autozone that I rented from autozone.

Make sure you put some oil on the crank to help make it easy to pull it off. When you go to use the puller make sure you use the bearing that comes with it to protect the threads in your crank shaft.

After you have that removed your ready to install your new chain on. First I recommend using a timing crank gear installation tool. You can get one from summitracing for around 18.00 from comp cams. Use a harmonic balancer installer along with that to put your bottom gear on. Please don't use a big socket and hammer it on. You can scar your crank snout or damage your gear and you don't want to do that. I put some oil on my crank and use the big crank gear socet I recommended above and slid my crank gear right on. If you go that way you will keep turning the installeron till the gear sits flush all the way back.

After your done with that take out your new timing chain and cam gear and loop your chain around the bottom gear. Then align your cam gear up with your camshaft. Make sure to pay attention to where your dots are and dont move your cam. Make sure the crank gear dot is at 12 oclock and the cam gear is at 6 oclock. (If that is how you took your old one off) Mine was at 12 oclock on both and I put the new timing chain on that way and its ok that way too. Just make sure you put the new one on the same way your old one cam off.

After you got your top gear and chain on your ready to put your cam bolts in. If your using a cam locking plate get it ready along with your cam bolts. I recommend one as its good insurance. Put some lock tite on your cam bolts and hand tighten them all in. Then torque them all to 20 ftlb's. If your using a cam locking plate bend one tab down for each bolt.

When you have your two gears on make sure there is proper clearance behined the cam gear around the back side. If you already had a double roller chain on already it should be fine but you still need to check cause some gears do very. I would also get a timing chain with a block wear protector. You can go with a bushing type or a torrington roller bearing type. Hope that helps you out. I just did my first one and I just fired it up last night after three weeks of a lot of things happenning. Post any more questions if you have them.

Good luck
Eric
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Old 07-14-2008, 06:56 PM
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Eric32.....

Thank you for the very clear instructions Eric. I had not considered using the harmonic balancer removal tool to instell the crank sprocket back on. That is a great idea!
Yes, the factory manual tells me to use a hammer. Looks like a 2 lb baby sledge to me.
I should have no trouble getting it back on.
Now I will return to my other post on 'Engines' to post some photos I took today of the sad state of my 15,000 crank and bearings........pg
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:33 PM
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whole front cover needs to come off, like a small block ford,you have to take off the front cross member. then the chain cover comes off in two parts; a top part associated with the head, and a bottom part associated with the block. you'll want a hoist.

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Old 09-20-2010, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piniongear
I agree, the last thing I want to do is hammer on a crankshaft, but that looks like a 2 pounder in the illustration.
You don't want to be hammering on the harmonic damper to install it, but you will hurt nothing by hammering on the cam drive sprocket with a piece of pipe.

Here's how to do it without pounding on anything. Put some chipped ice in a plastic bag and wrap it around the crank to chill the crank snout. This will contract the O.D. of the snout. Put the drive sprocket in a pan of water and boil it on the stove. This will expand the I.D. of the sprocket. Remove the ice bag and spray some WD40 onto the crank snout. Quickly slide the sprocket onto the snout. If you have done this correctly, no hammering will be necessary.

Now, as far as hammering on the crank snout or the rear of the crank, it will not hurt anything. I was talking on the phone with Joe Mondello one day about parts and procedures for a 455 Olds I was building. Joe shocked me when he told me to use a block of wood and a BFH to whang hell out of the crank from the front and the rear to seat the thrust bearing. I dare say Joe has built a few more motors than me or anyone else on this forum, so I took him at his word.
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:39 PM
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Driving the crank gear on won't hurt a thing, it is the harmonic damper you don't want to hammer on.

Techinspector is correct about the described procedure for setting the thrust bearing, it can be done with a hammer and block of wood, a dead blow hammer, lead hammer, or with a large prybar.
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