Hot Rod Forum banner

How do I tell???

1K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  APalusky 
#1 ·
Hi. How do I tell what alternator I have?? I see them that say one wire.. Mine was just laying there. It has a spot on the back for one wire, and a spot on the side for a plug. What do I have?? I am not sure of the year. It says Delco Remy on it. Thanks.. Al
 
#3 ·
Yes. That is what it looks like from the back. What I am looking at is one of those chrome housing kits. The wife wants some "bling" under the hood. It says it is for 55-73 alternators. One of them says that it doesn't come with bearings. Are those pressed in?? The other kit doesn't say.
 
#4 ·
Doc here, :pimp:

No , they are not pressed in, just tight fitting to remove and install.

You can get a Kit WITH bearings for about $15 bucks..after you get your chromie stuff..and use the Kit parts..



You Can get this at about any NAPA, or AUTO ZOMBIE Store..

TO MAKE IT ALL "CHROMIE" AND ELECTRICALLY NEW..

here is the very best way to do that..
If your Dress up kit provides "chrome endbells" instead of some type of "inserts or covers," toss the stock ones and build around the chrome units.





Simply Remove the alternator from the car...
  • Make a Magic Marker mark on both end bells and the main body for "Clocking" when you go to assemble it again..and pull the end-bells off the main body.

  • Get 3 Cans of Gunk de~Greaser, and a mild bristle , Small Scrub brush (like one of those fingernail brushes).

  • Go to the coin~op Carwash, Wear your grubbies (your going to get wet!) , and Goggles, place the End-bells and main body against the wall so they won't get blasted across the parking lot.

  • Spray ALL the parts until all 3 cans of gunk are gone, (use a brush on trouble-spots if needed) Let soak at LEAST 5 minutes.

  • Fill up the "One armed Bandit" on the wall with half your change, you need 5 minutes..Set the wash to "Engine Degrease" and throughly Spray all the parts until the wash shuts off..

  • Fill the Bandit up again..You need 5 more minutes again..(gauge your change accordingly..) Set the washer to Rinse, and spray all the parts until the time runs out.

  • NOTE: If you have a pressure washer..Skip the above "Coin~op " Steps and do it at home..your washer should be 1500 PSI or better though..

  • Let the parts "Sun Dry" Or EVEN better, If the wash has compressed air, blow them dry..or go to the nearest gas station..and blow them dry..(probably the LAST thing that is cheap or free in a place like that..)


  • Bring all your parts home and place them on the bench..Inspect the main body Windings For Splattered Solder joints , or warn winding Insulation or Gylpt paint..(If it was working fine before, you should be OK now..BUT If you suspect a problem you can OHM the windings out for open or short.)

  • Locate the rear end bell, Install the NEW Regulator , Install the NEW Rectifier Diode Kit, Then IF the bearing stayed in the end-bell instead of the shaft , remove it.. (they usually stay on the shaft. but if not, you can tap it out with a punch or drift.)


  • On the rear End-bell, on the bearing race, using a SMALL , SHARP center punch, make a SMALL (not too big!) Dimple each 1/3 of the way around the race.Once assembled, this will Prevent The bearing from EVER spinning in the race and eating out the end bell should a problem ever occur..Tap it into place with a mallet and a wooden dowel OR a proper sized socket (fits around the outside of the bearing)..It will be only slightly harder to install then when it came out. NOTE: NOTE: some cheapo Alternators have rear bushings instead of a bearing..IF your's does..DON'T DIMPLE the bushing race..you'll never get it in!

  • NEXT: Install the Brush kit, and brush holders (if supplied) and NEW spring followers.

  • Flip the End-bell over..You'll Note there is a hole about where the brushes pass through on the other side..IF your kit supplies one, Hold the brushes FULL up, and insert the pin..This holds the brushes off the rotating mass For re~Assembly..IF your kit does not supply them..use an 1/8 Drill bit..AND DON'T forget to remove it when all assembled!!

  • NEXT: Install the front bearing EXACTLY as you did on the rear end-bell.

  • NEXT: Take the rotating mass and place it carefully in a PADDED Vise, and tighten just so it won't slip out of the vise..Don't crush it or mark it.

  • Get some Fine Emory Cloth, or Fine croakas Cloth..cut it in strips wide enough and long enough to wrap around the Brush pick up pads and stroking forth and back, polish them until shiny clean , with NO PIT MARKS.. Inspect the rotating mass for anything out of the usual.

  • NOW, Slip on your Chromie Thingie on the alternator body, and attach however the instructions say to do it..

  • I am assuming the kit (dress-up kit) Provides the chrome end bells, not inserts for them, IF that is the case substitute the above end-bell instructions for your NEW dress-up end-bells, instead of using the ones that came off....if they have some kind of covers or inserts, install them now on the old end-bells.
  • Check your "clocking " marks (if you can still see them) and slide the front end-bell on..Close to alignment.

  • Do the same With the rear end-bell..

  • Get some locktite 404, and coat the threads on the four hold down screws, align them (DO NOT force them through the alternator..If out of alignment you can "Nick" a winding and short it.) The screws if close to your clocking marks should Slip through and you may need a "Little " Wiggle room to get them to begin threading..(DON'T cross Thread!) Tighten them down not too tight not too loose..don't strip them.

  • REMOVE your brush hold off pin.

  • Install the fan and Pulley..use locktite 404 on these threads also and tighten with a good sized bar. (Don't bend the fan blades!)

  • Inspect the alternator For free turning, no noises, clearance on the fan, and anything you might have missed.


Follow that, AND you'll Have a BETTER Alternator (provided it was good to start with) Than you could EVER buy over the counter today!! It will Probably Outlive the car!

It's not as hard as it sounds..takes about an hour to do on the bench after you get it clean and dry, with Common hand tools (except for fan and pulley nut..use an impact, If you don't have one, auto zombie will remove & Install it for you for free.) AND best of all..you can't really screw it up..parts only go in one way.

SOME ALTERNATORS Will vary SLIGHTLY, but not enough that you can't figure it all out..don't panic!

Doc :pimp:
 
#5 ·
APalusky said:
Yes. That is what it looks like from the back. What I am looking at is one of those chrome housing kits. The wife wants some "bling" under the hood. It says it is for 55-73 alternators. One of them says that it doesn't come with bearings. Are those pressed in?? The other kit doesn't say.
If is an internally regulated altertnator, that kit you are looking at probably wont work. From the year range you gave I would say that kit if for an externally regulated unit
 

Attachments

#6 ·
The back looks like that "SI" picture. I was given the pulleys and brackets when I bought the short water pump. They are chrome. The alternator looks butt ugly if I just left it dirty. I already painted the engine the Chevrolet red- orange. Other parts are anodized blue. Like the body will be.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top