How do I wire my trunk mounted battery?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Electrical
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2006, 06:24 PM
Half Breed's Avatar
Even my lawn mower is fast
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Florida
Age: 37
Posts: 45
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How do I wire my trunk mounted battery??

I have a 90' Mustang Coupe that is on the way to becoming quite a bit faster. Well I do not know much about wiring, so, can someone help me through the wiring of the trunk mounted battery I have? I really do not know where to start.

Thanks in advance

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 06:57 AM
Seon's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Northern Ca
Posts: 275
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'd start by measuring the distance between the trunk and your starter. You'll have to drill a couple of holes in the floor board for the "Positive" and "Negative cables to run thru.
Connect the cables accordingly, one to the battery and the other to the frame. Ensure that the battery is secured to the truck pan so as not to shift or roll over. I'd recommend buying a "sealed" battery like one in the pic below.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 08:25 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: texas, earth
Posts: 420
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
At least 1 ga cable. If this is a computer car, run the ground to the engine block as well. Also run a large ground strap to the frame. Just remember, grounds are our friends.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 10:28 AM
coupe66's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Stockholm
Age: 61
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
As seon sayd, messure the distance to the starter from the battery. But i would not mount the ground to the chassie in the rear. My car have that arangement and my voltage is not enough. The thing that needs the groundcable is the engineblock-starter, thats the main attatchment point. The cheet-metal have eight times the resistance than the coppercable, so trust only copper!

From the engineblock you then make one cable to chassie, and one to the frame.

But, its not only the length of the cable to the engine that counts, its the way back also... so if you got 15 feet of possetive cable, you gotta add 15 for the ground too, makes 30.

Once you messured the right length for the cables, you have to know what all the consumers in you car make up in total Watts. Im in the making of an new electrical system for my car right now, and i have messured up the length of 36 feet, to be on the right side of guessing. And my consumers will/can be as much as 750 Watts, and when i look at my "nomogram" to find out what size of cable i need to have, i am right at the edge of an "AWG 1-0" cable. So my choice is of course the "AWG 0" cable. And don't choice cable after your wallet... you gotta go buy the book, or else you battery will not be fully loaded, ever.

If you don't have an "nomogram" i can help you out with that, once you got the numbers.

I will only use crimped-soldered power-cables, its most important that the volt loss in the cable is held to a minimum, and this is the best way to avoid losses. And the ring-shoes should be copper. You have to make "14.2 volt over the poles" when engine is running, else the battery is not loaded up to 100 percent.

In near distance from the battery i will have an big fuse/fuseholder also, dunno the size of it, yet.

When the power-cables reach the firewall i will use "firewall stud insulator" from Ron Francis, that way its easy to make several cable attachment on the engine side for other power-cables, like an external solenoid... or power to relays for example. The power-cables is then also firmly mounted in the front of the car. Dont forget to shield the cables inside on the floor with something.

A little tip:
One source that i had not thought of before was the "marine" side of electrical systems. If someone know something about this, it should be the boat guys. They have a harder time with electrical parts than car owners. (and they have a lot of greate terminal strips and other goodies)

Sorry if i don't spell so well... hope its readable...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 03:21 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe66
Sorry if i don't spell so well... hope its readable...
Doc here,

Good Information

To help you out a bit more with the English, (I note your in Stockholm), Next time you post, Before you "Submit Post" note the little button that says "Spell Check", Click it, This will auto correct in English for you..may make it easier in the future!

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 04:41 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Doc here,

First off, for your project, get a proper Battery Enclosure and firmly mount it in a safe location in the trunk. If your not using an optima Battery, be sure it has drain holes and proper venting.

Next Relocate The Starter solenoid to the Trunk , On or just outside the Battery Box..(I assume you are staying Ford system) You Can use the stock solenoid (not my first choice) or upgrade to a Marine or EV type solenoid..beefier part, (Better Choice).

Next Mount a Single terminal block, and a double terminal block, OR 3 Singles , all are good.. where the solenoid Came out in the front.


One (or more) wire (s)will be from where the Battery attached to the solenoid when it was stock mounted..This is the Fuse Buss system, It provides power to the Vehicle electric system.Install a proper fuse link, and attach it to a single terminal post that you just installed.

Use a 10 or better, 8 gauge wire and route this wire to the trunk (preferably through the body inside, in the stock wire channels under the carpet escutcheons) to keep it from road damage. Install a proper fuse link on the other end, and attach it to where the battery wire goes into your relocated solenoid.

Next locate the "S" wire from the old solenoid location , put a ring terminal on it, and attach it to the next terminal block along with a 10 gauge wire which will route to the trunk, (inside the car through the wire channels provided stock) Hook that wire to the "S" Terminal on the New solenoid.

Next locate The "R" wire (If used on your Car) and attach a ring terminal to it, and connect it to the last terminal..and another 10 gauge wire. Route this wire in the same manner as before.

Next Run Your Power and ground wires (0/0 or 1/0) forward From the New solenoid. Determine What side The Fuel and Hydraulic lines run on and route your cables on the opposite side. Run a RED or MARKED 0/0 wire from the battery to one side of the solenoid (The side you ran the power wire for the fuse buss system) You MAY want to install an emergency battery disconnect here, If not racing, it's your option, If racing it's required, and an 0/0 cable from the other side, forward to the Starter Lug.

Next run a GROUND 0/0 OR 0/1 Cable forward from the trunk to the ENGINE BLOCK and ground it to any handy bolt at or near the starter..

SOME GUYS will tell you you don't need to do this, and maybe for them is rightly so..

BUT first, a frame is subject to all kinds of road damage, rust and vibration..To ground it at the back frame rail, and then pick it up in the front frame rail can subject you to high resistance and intermittent's if you get rust, or the bolts vibrate loose..AND on UniBody cars you ONLY have solid frame from the firewall forward. Which leaves you with FLEXIBLE , RUSTABLE body for a high current conductor. But that's a personal choice..

Set your Ground buss system as such:

From the bolt at or near the starter that you ran your ground cable, get a Battery cable at the parts store, that has two 3/8 ring terminals on each end and attach it there and to the Frame. 4 Gauge will be fine.



Next get some 10 gauge wire and ring terminals and run that from your bolt on the block to the Firewall, and another to the Alternator bracket or mount bolt.

Next get some Wire Braid, (Radio Shack) and install braid from the radiator support to the frame, Fenderwells to frame , hood to firewall, Doors to door posts, gas flap to body, Trunk to body.

At each point the wire is grounded, Burnish ALL the paint and grease off to bare metal. Use a proper star-washer and lock. Use sheetmetal or Tech screws where no screws are available.


Star Washer


Lock washer

It sounds like a lot of work, but after you assemble all the parts, it's only a few hours to do..and you'll end up with a system that will work reliably for many years to come..

On the Cable Routing UNDER the car (The 0/0 or 0/1) use Metal (Don't use plastic, they will dry out and crack) ADEL clamps that are rubber insulated, about a foot apart along the runs. Separate the cables by at least 3 inches. For mounting these, Use Tech screws and lock washers where they won't penetrate the visible inside of the body.

Route These away from Fuel, Hydraulic , rotating parts, and HEAT! and as much as possible from road hazards.

Where The Wires must exit through the Floor of the trunk, use a grommet slightly larger than the size of the Cables passing through it (on power and ground, use separate exits) Drill the proper sized holes , and coat the hole with Pilobond (ACE hardware 6 bucks a bottle) And install the grommet, then get a BRICK of Electricians putty (ACE HARDWARE $1.99 for 1 lb brick), and pot the Grommets and cables so they are water proof and fume proof.

Get some Anti~Chafe (ACE HARDWARE..just ask them) and ANYWHERE a wire can chafe at or near a sharp edge, coat it with pilobond then install the Anti~Chafe..

That's pretty much it..Just remember , If you think it might not be right, then double check or ASK..

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to docvette For This Useful Post:
poolman (09-18-2012)
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 06:12 PM
Half Breed's Avatar
Even my lawn mower is fast
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Florida
Age: 37
Posts: 45
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you everyone so much.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2006, 11:28 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
There's also more than a little info (enough to give me a headache) here:

http://www.madelectrical.com

I'm doing the same thing to my Torino right now. Just mounted this battery box today.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Batte...QQcmdZViewItem

I personally don't like the plastic battery boxes (though the Moroso NHRA approved box looks OK) so I went with an aluminum box with Optima though it's probably a little more work.. I have a completely rust free body and am using it for the ground. Have cut off switch and am using wiring diagram, relays and junction boxes from MAD with 8ga charging wire.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to MM in NM For This Useful Post:
poolman (09-18-2012)
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2006, 01:19 AM
coupe66's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Stockholm
Age: 61
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Next time you post, Before you "Submit Post" note the little button that says "Spell Check", Click it, This will auto correct in English for you..may make it easier in the future
Roger that Doc, thanks !

By the way... mounting an solenoid in the trunk was new to me, whats the benefits of that ?

I was thinking of mounting mine "Ford solenoid" on the firewall, so if i remove the starter i only have to loosen the cables at the solenoid, still attached to the starter...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2006, 02:31 AM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe66
Roger that Doc, thanks !

By the way... mounting an solenoid in the trunk was new to me, whats the benefits of that ?

I was thinking of mounting mine "Ford solenoid" on the firewall, so if i remove the starter i only have to loosen the cables at the solenoid, still attached to the starter...

Doc here,

By relocating the solenoid, you don't have damage potential from a big high amp cable, that is hot all the time exposed to road and track hazards..It is only hot in starter mode..

that's also why I advocate running the smaller gauge wire through the body.

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2006, 03:15 AM
coupe66's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Stockholm
Age: 61
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
MM in NM,
Quote:
I'm doing the same thing to my Torino right now. Just mounted this battery box today.
There is one drawback if you tense the battery and box together with the same bolt through the trunk-floor... the trunk floor could crack! as mine did...

My new tray will be bolted on the floor, and then, the battery is fasten the "orginal way" into the tray.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:12 AM
coupe66's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Stockholm
Age: 61
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Doc,
okay, i think i know what you mean...
I can save a lot of "AWG 0" feet's by mounting the solenoid in the rear, and a lot of weight too. So its okay to feed the front solenoid with an AWG 8 from the rear one ?

Quote:
Next Mount a Single terminal block, and a double terminal block, OR 3 Singles , all are good.. where the solenoid Came out in the front.
I don't follow you all the way here... "where the solenoid came out in the rear" ?

Its a lot of "significance" in trying to read the above message, can't you make some sort of simple drawing instead Doc ? (with the wire-gauge's implemented)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:24 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
If I may come in here, I think I understand you question, so I will attempt to explain.

You have a starter solenoid (Ford) in the trunk with two heavy battery cables running forward to the engine. The - battery lead mounts on the engine block (ground). The red lead mounts on the starter just like it normally does. You then must install a jumper on the starter solenoid on the engine. The jumper goes from the heavy battery cable on the starter to the smaller "S" terminal on the engine starter solenoid.

Now there is no heavy voltage present in the + battery cable until the solenoid in the trunk is energized (by ignition switch). At the time the solenoid in the trunk is energized the heavy + battery cable to the starter is energized. Since the jumper you installed on the starter is connected between the battery terminal and the "S" terminal when the + cable is energized it pulls in the starter solenoid at the same time the starter starts to spin.

Hope that explained it.
Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2006, 01:36 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302/Z28
If I may come in here, I think I understand you question, so I will attempt to explain.

You have a starter solenoid (Ford) in the trunk with two heavy battery cables running forward to the engine. The - battery lead mounts on the engine block (ground). The red lead mounts on the starter just like it normally does. You then must install a jumper on the starter solenoid on the engine. The jumper goes from the heavy battery cable on the starter to the smaller "S" terminal on the engine starter solenoid.

Now there is no heavy voltage present in the + battery cable until the solenoid in the trunk is energized (by ignition switch). At the time the solenoid in the trunk is energized the heavy + battery cable to the starter is energized. Since the jumper you installed on the starter is connected between the battery terminal and the "S" terminal when the + cable is energized it pulls in the starter solenoid at the same time the starter starts to spin.

Hope that explained it.
Vince

Doc here,

Thanks, Vince!

This is correct,Coupe66..

Doc

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2006, 02:28 PM
docvette's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Rebuild an alternator Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lafayette, california
Age: 62
Posts: 7,362
Wiki Edits: 12

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe66
Doc,
okay, i think i know what you mean...
I can save a lot of "AWG 0" feet's by mounting the solenoid in the rear, and a lot of weight too. So its okay to feed the front solenoid with an AWG 8 from the rear one ?


I don't follow you all the way here... "where the solenoid came out in the rear" ?

Its a lot of "significance" in trying to read the above message, can't you make some sort of simple drawing instead Doc ? (with the wire-gauge's implemented)
Doc here,

Sorry about the diagram, but my scanner is ALMOST totally dead..If you have noticed most of my schematics I post are Fuzzy and almost unreadable..It hasn't long to go..

Let me see if I can simplify for you...

You will be removing the Solenoid (Stock location now) ALTOGETHER, and relocating it to the Trunk at or near your New Battery Location.

Here I suggest you look into a Better solenoid, Such as an EV or Marine Application BECAUSE it has to do a bit more work pumping Current up 30 feet of hose (Cable)

This is the reason you MUST Route a Set of 8 gauge wires INSIDE the Car's wire raceway.
(in the left door jamb, under the carpet hold down, there is a channel in there for running wires) back to the new location in the trunk.

One for the "S" function , ( 8 gauge)
One for the "R or I " Function on the STOCK solenoid, (8 gauge)
A 3 RD wire is required for the MAIN FUSE BUSS. (8 gauge)

This wire will hook up on the solenoid, at the terminal that the Battery wire goes to..Big bolt (So it's hot all the time). (0/0 AND the 8 gauge Fuse buss wire)

The other side of the solenoid (big bolt) Goes directly Forward to the Starter and bolts up there. (0/0 gauge)

The Terminals that you will mount where the stock solenoid was removed,

( 3 terminals, or a single and two terminals)

Are so you may hook up and EXTEND the ( 8 gauge) "S" and "I" or "R" wires to the trunk, and the single Terminal,

(3 RD terminal)

Is for extending the MAIN FUSE BUSS wire (that feeds power to the Fuse box)
This Wire Will receive a Fuse link on both ends of the wire..

One at The Terminal block in front, And One at the Solenoid in the rear, where it joins with the battery cable at the solenoid (big bolt )

The reason for this Is because you have this main fuse buss power wire running INSIDE the wire channel that is HOT at ALL TIMES..

Should you accidentally Shoot a sheetmetal screw through it, While installing speakers or other things, and dead short it, the link in the back will open..

IF the car is running BOTH links will open ,

one to stop the short from the battery supply, and the front one to stop the supply from The ALTENATOR...THIS is a must for fire safety.

The way the system is CONFIGURED , The Big RED 0/0 wire running outside the car underneath, to the starter in front, will only have power on it when you turn the key to start..

after the car starts, and the key returns to "RUN" the solenoid DROPS out, removes power off this wire, making it safe SHOULD you hit something in the road that could slice it, OR it heats up and melts or chafes against a metal part..it won't start a fire or battery explosion.

You might try printing both these posts out , and highlight each step as you read it, it may help a bit and gives you a guide as you do it..

Is That a bit more helpful?

Doc
__________________
Aftermarket Solutions
Electronic & Electrical
Innovations
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Electrical posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1 wire or 3 wire alternator??? oldguy829 Electrical 34 03-12-2013 10:47 AM
Roll Bar Install Advice Mustangsaly General Rodding Tech 12 12-02-2007 08:33 AM
Need help please with an electrical headake bowtieorbust Electrical 15 01-26-2006 03:01 PM
1986 Cutlass wiring Q's again :( ChrisMiddleron Electrical 12 07-16-2005 04:22 PM
Trunk mounted battery fred56 Electrical 5 07-29-2003 08:12 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.