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Old 09-01-2013, 02:07 PM
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How do these plugs look?

This plug has been in my old hot rod for a while through various phases of tuning. I'm interested to hear what information the more experienced guys can gather from looking at it. thanks in advance.




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Old 09-01-2013, 03:49 PM
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Well to get a accurate plug reading u realy need to install fresh plugs and drive it for about 10 miles with a few hard accelerations and then take them out and read them.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:58 PM
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OK. I'm going to the track next Friday. I guess I should throw a new set in there and see how they look after a night of 1/4 mile blasts.
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Old 09-01-2013, 06:02 PM
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To get a good plug reading, shut the motor off after a hard run, no idle time, coast off the track, then read the plugs.
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Old 09-01-2013, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68NovaSS View Post
To get a good plug reading, shut the motor off after a hard run, no idle time, coast off the track, then read the plugs.
Yeah, I'm familiar with the process. But my plugs never seem to look like the ones in the books and I have no experience doing that. I'm all on my own here. I was hoping to get some info on the condition of my tune based on the given plugs- full throttle or not.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:42 AM
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Looks about perfect to me. I would clean them off with a propane torch and throw em back in.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:49 AM
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Wow, that's great to hear. I feel better about my tuning abilities now! thanks.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:21 PM
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Ummm, base of the plug shell in photo 2 looks black and shiny, like oil. Do you think maybe the intake gaskets aren't sealing up the way they should and are allowing oily vapors from the crankcase to be sucked into the cylinder on the intake stroke? The ports have to seal up in both X and Y axes and unless you have owned the block, heads and intake ever since they came off the assembly line, you have no idea what cutting has been done to them and whether or not the manifold is allowing the gaskets to seal up in both X and Y. I'm just firing away in the dark here, trying to make you aware of something that you may not have considered.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:29 PM
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I do plumb both crankcase vents into the air cleaner. I wonder if that could be the cause. I think I'll bypass that this weekend and see if a new set of new plugs are less oily afterward.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedRacer350 View Post
This plug has been in my old hot rod for a while through various phases of tuning. I'm interested to hear what information the more experienced guys can gather from looking at it. thanks in advance.



If you've been tuning with these they may just be fouled a bit from excess fuel, not getting hot enough to burn off deposits, pulling a little oil over in high vacuum situations.

These structurally look like a pretty cold plug and these are pretty easy to foul when you're messing around with jetting and timing to a point where they just can't clean themselves up.

My off the hip shot would be they are too cold, but maybe if you aren't tuning on them they could be OK. I'd either replace these or go a heat range hotter.

Bogie
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:47 PM
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Good to know. That whole hot/cold thing has me confused. These are AR3933s, so I'll try some AR3934s and see what happens. Of course, O'Reilly's probably won't have them.
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Old 09-18-2013, 08:58 PM
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Here's a new set of hotter AR3934s after one night at the track. I gapped them somewhere between 25 and 30. They were less than 25 out of the box. The car actually idled higher with them. It does look like they burned differently. So, do you think I found the right temperature range?



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Old 09-19-2013, 05:11 AM
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The central electrode was very worn on your old plugs and you must have had an extremely large gap as a result. How did it run ET wise with the new plugs ?

The new plugs look ok but you cant see the timing marks and I'd read them again after some more miles and make sure they're not too lean.
The one thing I dont like about those plugs is the side electrode doest go completely over the central electrode and the new plug pictures clearly show the spark coming from the side electrode is only hitting maybe 1/4 of the central electrode.

Sometimes plugs that are all black and carbon looking arent a bad thing, I'm trying to dial in plugs on my Pro Street Ranger right now and thats how I'm currently running mine. I'm running NGK #R5671A-9 and if you looked at them you would be amazed the truck even starts and runs with them all Black like that BUT I go over the finish line at over 8,000 RPM and have 13.2:1 compression so I let it run rich around town and they seem to clean right up during the burnout at the track and the truck runs 10.6 - 10.7 like it's on rails each and every time out (so I'm leaving 9's in it).

Here's a couple of random pics from the net that might help











Lets analyze this plug,



#1 Is a timing indicator, you'll see a definite color change on the ground strap, it doesn't show well here but you can still see it right about at the arrow. Too much timing and the color change will be very close to the threaded body of the plug, too little and it'll be closer to the tip. Ideally we want it right in the apex or center of the 90 bend on the ground strap. This plug shows too much timing for the combustion chamber efficiency or octane level.

#4 Arrow shows another indicator of timing, you'll usually see a brown ring right at the tip of the porcelain area it should be a sharp and defined ring about .020 wide. Wider indicates not enough timing and any smaller , or only 1/2 way around or nonexistent as in this image is the second indication of too much timing in the motor.

#2 The tip of the ground strap is loaded with OIL deposits, fuel deposits are usually flat black in color and almost like a fine powdery deposit, this motor is leaking oil into the combustion chamber, bad valve guides, leaking valve covers allowing oil to seep through the plug threads, whatever it needs to be fixed.

#3 The threaded portion of the plug gives you the heat range, look at the threads you'll see that a few toward the tip are a dull burnt looking color the rest are black and shiny. You want about 2 threads showing the heat on the end of the plug and the rest of the threads to be shiny, this plug is impossible to read because of the oil mess. If you using a longer reach plug than this one 2.5 to 3 threads is optimum.
To increase the number of burnt threads increase the heat range of the plug, if you have 4-5-6 threads burnt you need to get a colder plug.
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