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Old 02-26-2010, 12:23 AM
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How do you fix holes left by trim you removed?

I am rat rodding my 52 chevy deluxe sedan, I was wondering if anybody knows a good way to fill the holes from the trim. I removed the trim that run along side the car from the front fender to the rear fender. Now I have all these holes to deal with. Any help would be great, for now i'm stuck.

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Old 02-26-2010, 03:45 AM
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If you have access to a welder the absolute best way to deal with those holes is to weld them up.
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Old 02-26-2010, 07:09 AM
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welding holes

Back in the day that was a must ! Remove the hood and trunk lid trim from your early 50ís. If you had the chepo you didn't have any side trim. (Mine was) PRACTICE on scrap First All I had was a gas welder and the problem was to weld it with out warping the metal. I got some steel rod just a little larger than the hole. Sand off the paint around the hole. Then oversize the hole to match the rod. Sand the inside around the hole, polish the rod so it is clean, cut a small piece. Don't use galvanized bolts for the rod. The rod has to be a tight fit. Carefully start heating the rod then when it is hot use flux coated brazing rod and at the right temperature it will flow around the joint. Check the backside. for weld flow. Cool with a rag then grind-sand both sides smooth, then you can metal finish it and low temp heat shrink if you need too. The whole key is not to get too much heat and start warping everything.
Leading holes... Some guys used body solder (LEAD) In order to get the solder to stick you must sand and clean around the hole, then. Turn each hole into a bullet hole Use a punch and a Big hammer and a hard blow, Then use tinning compound and a wad of steel wool. I usually held it with a pair of pliers and do the regular leading process. You need to have bullet holes so there is a larger area around the hole for the lead to stick and not fall out of the hole. If you have a mig or tig welder sand and clean everything and drill a little oversize to clean out the inside of the hole. Use a copper backup behind the hole. Flattened copper water pipe works pretty good. Still don't over heat the weld area! Small tacks and cool between. Sometimes you get better weld finish by starting on the backside. Sometimes using a little heat with oxy - acety or tig to reflow the weld from the front. Don't overheat. We used to use asbestos base putty - paste to make a rope and apply about a 3/8 x 3 in dia circle around the hole to absorb the excess heat. Today you can buy non-asbestos Heat Spone to absorb the heat. After welding I have been keeping the used sponge in another bottle. I haven't tried to add water and remix and reuse it like we did with the old stuff. Practice until you get the hang of it.

Last edited by timothale; 02-26-2010 at 07:25 AM. Reason: phat fingers
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:14 AM
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I'm a novice but I'll tell you what worked for me. I used a MIG welder at a sharp angle to the hole. Touch the opposite side of the hole and pull the trigger repeatedly for just an instant. Build metal from the opposite side to fill the hole.

I even did this on rust pin holes. Metal would burn away till it found enough thickness to stay put. Once it quit burning away, just kept filling from the opposite side till its closed.

I would get a little warping leaving a small concave area around the weld, just right for a little filler. Grind the weld off level with the area around the weld and apply a little filler. Clean and use a rust treatment on the back side then paint with POR 15.

Maybe someone more experienced will comment on the technique. Since my car won't be out in the weather much, if at all, I expect even that rust repair to hold up for a long time. Time will tell, I guess.
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:15 AM
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16d nails from the backside. pull it tight and spot it good then cut it off and weld it. have done it this way since the late 60's .
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
16d nails from the backside. pull it tight and spot it good then cut it off and weld it. have done it this way since the late 60's .
Shine, you're my hero! You just obsoleted the process I've been using. Thanks a bunch, no more using copper behind and filling the hole with mig wire.
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:27 AM
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i like the nail idea! will keep that one in my bag o'tricks!
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:49 AM
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I removed the side trim from a '59 Caddy. The holes were just larger than a metal punch I had access to. I used the punch to make 18 guage plugs. I then tacked some filler wire to the plugs. The filler wire gave me a handle to hold the plug in place. I then used a mig welder to tack the plug in the hole. After two tacks I was able to remove the wire handle and finish welding the plug in place. This is similar shine's method but a bit more time consuming. The results were great. Here are a couple pictures to clarify.
The last photo is one side of the car with the holes plugged.

Good luck.

capta1n
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:21 AM
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Man that nail trick would have come in handy........a month ago.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:25 AM
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Thanks!!

Thanks for all the tech help, I do not have a mig welder or know anybody that does. Is welding the only way? I have a stick welder but I am not all that good with it. Being on a wife mandated budget I will have to sacrifice something in order to have the holes filled. So if there is another way that doesn't require welding, please let me know. Again thanks for all the help.
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:35 PM
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if you use the nails be sure to clean them well. you can get a cheap wire welder to do it.
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:05 PM
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I've just brazed the holes. I've heard that bondo won't stick to brazing but the area is so small that if you file it off smooth you won't need any bondo. Low cost, easy to do, brass won't rust.
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Old 02-26-2010, 02:45 PM
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It's a "Rat Rod", why fill the holes? Or, if you just want it cheap and quick; take a tapered punch and dimple the hole in (after removing paint, rust, etc.), lay on/in a coating of bondo. Shave/sand it down; that's what the cheap body shops do. They do the same for pulling dents, drill a hole, thread in the puller, and whack it out. Then do the bondo repair. It ain't "right", but it's what your asking for, as it sounds like you don't have the equipment needed to do it correctly.
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:04 PM
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What kind of stick welding machine do you have? I welded up a bunch of holes with a Lincoln 225 years back. 40 amps is as low as it would go but with extra lead on it, it would drop the amps enough to use 3/32" 6011 rod. Also used a large wet sponge with a hole in the middle of it to help soak up the heat and minimize warpage. It worked well but if you don't have much practice....get some! Practice is good.
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Old 08-15-2013, 09:53 PM
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May be an oversimplification but I have used jb weld several times with no problem. What sold me on this product was many years ago while in the service on Okinawa Japan I cracked the cylinder head on a,four cylinder Toyota and couldn't afford to replace it. Ground a small v down the crack and filled with jbweld and used a fine grit sanding block to sand it down smooth. Ran for two more years until I sold it with no problem. Have filled moulding holes with no problem. Just make sure back and front of panel are clean bare metal.
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