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How do you tell...

2K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  Holder350 
#1 ·
...the difference between stainless and aluminum trim? The headlight trim on my '72 Maverick is either one or the other and no one on the Maverick board can tell with any certainty. Is there a "scuff" or "chemical" or some other non-destructive test?

Thanks!

Russ
 
#2 ·
Aluminum is alot softer that stainless steel, take a punch on the backside of the trim where you cannot see it and do a scratch test. On aluminum the punch will want to dig in and will scratch easily. On stainless it will want to slide over it just barely scratching it. I would not want to put any kind of chemical on any trim, it could easily discolor or damage it.
 
#4 ·
stainless aluminum

Hard if not impossible to tell just by looking, scratch test is about only way i know. I had three outboard props to sell once, i was sure they were stainless, even the guy at the repair shop said SS. I sold them stating they were SS and never heard a thing from two of the customers, the one other guy later found out is was aluminum, honest mistake and he got his money back, but the others never new....
 
#11 ·
Try a magnet. (A high nickel content will make it non-magnetic, but if the magnet pulls on it at all, you know it can't be aluminum).

Hydrochloric acid will also show you, but if it ain't aluminum, you just ruined it. :)

The scratch test is least destructive. Scratch an aluminum ladder then scratch a stainless steel spoon. Now scratch your trim and see which it acts like the most.
 
#13 ·
grouch said:
...Hydrochloric acid will also show you, but if it ain't aluminum, you just ruined it. :) ...
Grouch, what's the deal with the acid? Are you saying it ruins aluminum or non-aluminum metals? I can try this on a spare part that won't be used...

Russ
 
#14 ·
S10xGN said:
Grouch, what's the deal with the acid? Are you saying it ruins aluminum or non-aluminum metals? I can try this on a spare part that won't be used...

Russ
Caution: Be aware that "muriatic acid" found in hardware stores runs from 15% to about 32% HCl. The stuff typically found in college and high school labs is about 36% and labelled "concentrated". Read the label.

Aluminum forms an oxide on its surface which is resistant to hydrochloric acid. After that oxide is eaten away, however, aluminum will quite happily react and dissolve in HCl. That delay is what makes dilute HCl a pretty effective cleaning agent for aluminum subway cars and truck van bodies. (You know, graffitti).

Most stainless steel has no resistance to HCl and will start tarnishing or rusting quickly.

HCl is not as immediately dangerous as H2SO4 (sulfuric, your battery acid) but it's still not something to treat lightly. Wear your safety glasses if you fool with it and be sure to rinse everything down that comes in contact with it.

I still prefer the scratch test as first mentioned by onebadmerc above and seconded by others.
 
#16 ·
Holder350 said:
lol I love sulfuric bombs......20oz coke bottles a roll tin foil and some Sulfuric Acid makes for a fun saturday.

And dead grass!! :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
The world may end if you ever swap 'fun ideas' with a guy named "Pooh Bear". While searching for some tool ideas, I ran across one of those threads that starts out well intentioned but then goes a bit off-the-wall --
Misusing Tools. Be sure to read to the end; you don't want to miss the exploding woodchuck.
 
#17 ·
ROFL Grouch Thank SO much for that link....that ones going in the bookmarks.

I may have to look up old Pooh.

I have a great tater gun, and it uses brake cleaner as fuel. :p


balloons full of propane are fun....gotta try the napalm and the Calcium carbide bombs! :thumbup:

I mean....who would DO such a thing........ :nono: :nono: :nono:

gotta go to the hardware store tomorrow.
 
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