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Old 08-31-2004, 11:54 PM
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how does this air compressor piping diagram look

ok well i got a 20 gallon 5hpmaxx cambell hausfeld air compressor. right now i got 3/8-in. x 50-ft. Air of hose going to a filter/dryer in my vise then 3/8-in. x 25-ft. of hose to my air tool.

after a hour or 2 my air filter is full of water and needed empty, the end of the air hose still seems to get some water. im looking to get the air dry as i can.

what happends if u got to much piping? will i loose pressure at the end of the line? im talking about 120 feet. whats the max for my air compressor?

heres a diagram i made in paint really quik that is a attachment, i got the idea from "36scsc" on another thread
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Old 09-01-2004, 12:52 PM
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If the same holds true for air compressor lines as it does for air conditioning lines, It is not the length of the tubing but the number of bends that will cause a pressure drop. more bends = more drop in pressure. What if you mount an additional dryer by your work surface?




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Old 09-01-2004, 01:37 PM
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water

Hi humidity causes a lot of condensation in air compressors.If you're getting water at the tool hookup, you need a bigger dryer or another dryer. Air pressure drop from high to low causes condensation. maybe a pressure regular at the tank to hose connection would help. It sounds like you're just using more air than the dyer can handle. Does it have a bleed valve on the bottom of the dryer, if so you may need to leave it open a little to allow the water to bleed of as it is collected. What about the tank bleed, does it need draining. You could try building a catch tank from a 4 in. pipe about 2ft. long. Weld the ends, on the side at one end, weld a 3/8 pipe nipple, on the other end, 180 degrees from the first nipple weld another. Then drill through the nipples with a 5/16 drill. Hook the inlet air to the bottom, and outlet to the top. Sorry, you'll need and 1/4 nipple on the end which will be the bottom to drain it. You can use a drain **** ( like a radiator or a valve. The bigger and longer the pipe, the better it works cause the air has longer to stay so the water has longer to fall out. I put legs on mine, stool it up, its five ft. tall, 8 in. diam. lol
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Old 09-01-2004, 02:07 PM
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The only real drawback to long piping is pressure loss. I have been thinking about the problem - I have some condensate even in the dry Bakersfield atmosphere - but I don't want to buy and pay for the electricity of a commercial air dryer. Finally dawned on me that I cool my shop w/ an evaporative cooler so all I need to do is roll a ~18" diameter flat coil of 1/2" copper tubing and drop it into the sump of the swamp cooler. Instant dehydrator for free!
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:32 PM
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Re: water

Quote:
Originally posted by lanierledford
Hi humidity causes a lot of condensation in air compressors.If you're getting water at the tool hookup, you need a bigger dryer or another dryer. Air pressure drop from high to low causes condensation. maybe a pressure regular at the tank to hose connection would help. It sounds like you're just using more air than the dyer can handle. Does it have a bleed valve on the bottom of the dryer, if so you may need to leave it open a little to allow the water to bleed of as it is collected. What about the tank bleed, does it need draining. You could try building a catch tank from a 4 in. pipe about 2ft. long. Weld the ends, on the side at one end, weld a 3/8 pipe nipple, on the other end, 180 degrees from the first nipple weld another. Then drill through the nipples with a 5/16 drill. Hook the inlet air to the bottom, and outlet to the top. Sorry, you'll need and 1/4 nipple on the end which will be the bottom to drain it. You can use a drain **** ( like a radiator or a valve. The bigger and longer the pipe, the better it works cause the air has longer to stay so the water has longer to fall out. I put legs on mine, stool it up, its five ft. tall, 8 in. diam. lol
the air compressor has a tank drain on the bottom wich i will empty after a couple hours of use, not to much will come out of it so i tip the compressor back and forth and it just pours out. the air filter/dryer has a ball valve on the bottom wich i drain every 1-2 hours of use. its a cambell huasfeld

5-micron filter removes unwanted dirt particles and condensed water to extend tool life
See-through bowl with metal guard allows easy monitoring of fluid level while protecting unit against impact
Quick-release bowl and quarter-turn drain allows easy maintenance
57 SCFM flow capacity at 90 PSI. 150 PSI maximum pressure. 3/8-inch NPT(F) ports

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

how would it be if i were to use my 50 foot hose and run it up to the ceiling from the comprssor then run it on along the wall on a down hill to the end of the garage and turn it around and bring it back on a down hill and drop off to my dryer(maybe use a second dryer) and then use a pressure regulater(instead of on the air comprssor itself) and then my 25 foot hose to the air tool.

at 100 feet of hose, is 3/8 hose to small? 25 feet hose after the dryer isnt to much to work with sometimes.

the way i got it setup right now is just the 50 foot hose goes half way to the celing from the comprssor and then 5-10 feet across and droped down then coiled up on my workbench and then to the air dryer in the vise and then the 25 foot hose connected up.

Last edited by montea; 09-01-2004 at 11:57 PM.
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Old 09-02-2004, 03:37 AM
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Condensation is going to accumulate most in the first 25' out of the compressor, buy a good descant set up and place in this the fist 15-20 foot off the compressor..
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Old 09-02-2004, 03:17 PM
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ok well this is what i did, prolly add another dryer to the end of the 25 foot hose and then another 25 foot hose for during painting. but for air tools this is prolly good enough.

but is 100 feet of 3/8 hose going to be ok? i got 75 right now and it seems to be fine but i dunno.
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:06 PM
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Your rubber air hose is acting as an insulator and the 'wet' air is not condensing on the inside surface. Get rid of the hose and go to copper pipe type "L" Go 2 lengths straight up (24') and put a water trap at the bottom and another when you come back down. This will elininate most of your water problems. Drain your tank daily!!! Also think about getting a larger storage tank, if it runs less, then less water.

Last edited by alittle1; 09-03-2004 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:59 PM
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is it possible to put dual tanks on it?
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Old 09-03-2004, 02:26 PM
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Sure! There is no reason why you can't suspend a tank from the rafters or even put it in the attic portion. Just replace the air hose with copper pipe and much larger water traps then you have.
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Old 09-03-2004, 05:03 PM
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what would be a good size tank to add on?

its a 1 stage 2 cylinder, 2 hp maxx(or least i thnk) with 20 gallon tank.

for air tanks, looking threw the princess auto catalog i see they just have 20gallon tanks $230, 60 gallon $380, or portable tanks wich come in 5-11 gallon from $40-$57. with portable tanks then i would need to add a output along with a drain valve in the bottom correct.

wouldnt want to spend to much, would rather just save up and get this 5hp, single stage, 22amp 230V, 60 gallon 18.5cfm@100psi compressor for double the price i paid for mine.

but if i could get more out of the compressor i got now without spending alot of $$ for a year or 2 that would awesome
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Old 09-03-2004, 07:26 PM
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First question, what are you using the air for? Saw a paint gun in the picture. And, how much do you do? While your looking in Princess Auto, look at the tools amnd see what the consumption rate of air is and the PSI, figure out from there. The best deal at Princess is coming up in late Oct/early Nov when they have their GIANT sale, look for the 7 1/2 HP, two stage, 80 gal. Good for a lifetime!! Stay away from those throw-a-way Chinese one's that they have, no parts, leak air and blow oil seals and leak all over the tank. On your existing one, you could go for the 80 gal tank. You should be able to pump it up to 125 psi, wait for 'wet' air to condense, release thru water trap and then spray. Alberta is desert, so air shouldn't be to humid. Drain air tank after using each day and pump up a new tank every morning.
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Old 09-03-2004, 08:12 PM
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the compressor is just for my personal use on my own cars, so far i have just used the compressor for my DA sander, soon will use that paint gun to put primer on my car. i want to get other air tools too once i need them. but with my DA sander i gota keep waiting and waiting because it drains the tank so fast.

say if i were to buy a 60-80 gallon tank and install my pump and motor onto it. in the future then say a year or two down the road if i want more outa it just buy a bigger motor(230volt) and 2 stage compressor pump. is that worth it going that way or is it too expensive buying in parts.

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Old 09-04-2004, 03:35 PM
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air

Mont, maybe we need start at the bottom. 2 stage means air comes in at atmosphere. pressure and is pumped up to say 50psi. the in goes into the 2stage at 50 psi. and comes out at 150 psi. Its slower building vol. but high on pressure. The single stage 2 cyl. will build air faster, but not as high pressure. Now the extra tank is goin give you more vol. its goin to take longer to fill the tanks, but when it does, it'll take longer for the pressure to run down,cause there's more to run down. As for a compressor, see how many cfm of air your tools use. If the highest is say 9cfm, I get a compressor that would product at-lest 7cfm. That way if you let the tank fill (150psi) and you start using the tool, when the pressure drops to the low level switch (100psi) the pump comes on and starts rebuilding the pressure as you using it. making 7 cf a minute, and using 9cf a min. it'll take longer to drop down. Hopefully you ready to stop for something and the compressor keeps building.
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