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Old 08-21-2004, 04:11 PM
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how does this sound (primer/filler questions)

Ok, i sanded down my torino to bare metal, welded up patch panels to fill in rust, used long strand fiberglass over them, and will be using a normal filler to fill in the porosity of the fiberglass.

Now over this I was planning on shooting epoxy primer, and then overtop of that a 2K filler primer. After reading Centerline's post "What kind of paint should I use?" i'm a little confused, and would like to ask a few questions.

anyway, the plan is to prime this baby and have it sit or be driven for a while until i sand down the filler primer and shoot some paint at it.

I have a few questions, would you consider shooting these as something a complete paint newb could handle?

Which filling primer would be best to be exposed to the elements for a while? a Urethane or Polyester? And which would you suggest over an epoxy?

As for now i am unsure as to which topcoat i will use, and currently it doesn't matter too much i can use whatever the primer likes best (going with a black paintjob, nothing fancy), so which would be the best combo of primers to use??

I had a friend who had said he would help with the prep and paint, but he has since moved away and won't be around to help out with what he said he would, so i'm kinda lost at the moment.

Thanks for the help guys.

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Old 08-21-2004, 06:55 PM
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woah!! Primer does not stop rust

Do not waste your precious time after stripping the vehicle to bare metal, primer does not prevent moisture from reattacking the metal. You need to seal the primer where ever you get your primer from ask for a compatable sealer. You still have to sand before appling top coat if you leave it for more than five or six days anyhow, when you get ready for your top coat scuff it with 460 grit wet and wash down apply degreaser then apply top coat the primer and metal underneath will still be ok.

Robert
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Old 08-21-2004, 07:04 PM
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Re: woah!! Primer does not stop rust

Quote:
Originally posted by 31"A"bones
Do not waste your precious time after stripping the vehicle to bare metal, primer does not prevent moisture from reattacking the metal. You need to seal the primer where ever you get your primer from ask for a compatable sealer. You still have to sand before appling top coat if you leave it for more than five or six days anyhow, when you get ready for your top coat scuff it with 460 grit wet and wash down apply degreaser then apply top coat the primer and metal underneath will still be ok.

Robert
epoxy is a sealer primer isn't it? and yes i know before i shoot the primer i'll need to sand the whole thing again to take off any surface contaminants that have started since i first got it down. been 2 months since most of it was down, as i'm not an expert the patches took me a long time, as well as the fiberglass.
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Old 08-21-2004, 07:22 PM
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No, epoxy is not a sealer it does seal but will bleed through in time, the company I worked for we built sandblasted and painted oilfield equipment and off-road all-terrain vehicles which goes through pretty harsh treatments, the client needed the machine early and wanted just primer using just epoxy primer on a deck and rear frame area after three months rust bled through so bad it looked as if it never was painted to begin with. We had to disassemble machine, blast, and start all over that was a pain and we had a 10 man crew to do the work.

Work smart not backwards!

Robert
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Old 08-21-2004, 07:43 PM
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I think I understand what you are trying to do here.

Spray the epoxy over the bodywork like you said.
If anything is exposed to the weather the best thing to be exposed is the epoxy. The only problem with epoxy and weather is it will caulk but that can easily take 6 months or longer.

The best thing for you to do is epoxy all panels and than when you have time spray a panel or two with a 2K Urethane Primer
(no polyester in the weather) block out when dry in a couple of hours and when done blocking coat the primer with a coat of epoxy to protect the primer until paint time.
Also this solves your other problem as any paint can be applied over any cured epoxy so now you can go for the best deal or ease of use and not be locked in.
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Old 08-21-2004, 07:44 PM
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will i need to take the epoxy down to spray the 2k if it's been outside and in contaminants and or chalked? and/or will i need to remove the epoxy to spray color?
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Old 08-22-2004, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dubz
will i need to take the epoxy down to spray the 2k if it's been outside and in contaminants and or chalked? and/or will i need to remove the epoxy to spray color?
************************************************** *
NO. The only thing weather will do to epoxy is the UV's will cause the epoxy to caulk. (black turns white/gray)
The only part of the epoxy that is caulking is the top surface so you still have full protection.

So 6 months from now when you are ready to spray the car all you do is hand sand the epoxy with 180-320, this will take care of the caulk layer if one, wash with wax and grease remover than spray one more coat of epoxy.
After you spray your coat of epoxy you have seven days to spray anything over the epoxy without sanding first.
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Old 08-22-2004, 12:29 PM
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so would it be best to shoot 2 coats of epoxy then to make sure it's nice and thick?
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Old 08-22-2004, 12:40 PM
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YES, great idea.
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Old 08-22-2004, 03:22 PM
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and the last question, can you tint epoxy? wouldn't mind black if possible
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Old 08-22-2004, 04:03 PM
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You can only tint epoxy with its-self. Such as buy red and white to make pink.
All the majors make a black epoxy, White, gray a few make red and green.
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Old 08-28-2004, 12:50 AM
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how does this sound

a couple layers of PPG DP90LF epoxy in black

gonna have to go check out the paint store that sells the ppg stuff on monday for pricing, but if it'll work....

i noticed that they have a high solid epoxy in the Delfleet line, is there an equivalent in the deltron line, or any other high solid primers that might work.

also is the deltron line a decent line to go with?

tip size reccomended is 1.4-1.6
would a 1.8 be too big?? (do i need to buy/borrow another gun)
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Old 08-29-2004, 04:28 PM
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Gun size 1.4-1.5 is perfect for epoxy.

At this point the last thing I would buy would be ANY PPG epoxy until they decide what way they are going.
Look for a BASF or Dupont store around you and ask for an epoxy that does not require an acid etch first. If it requires an acid etch run don't walk!
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Old 08-29-2004, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BarryK
Gun size 1.4-1.5 is perfect for epoxy.

At this point the last thing I would buy would be ANY PPG epoxy until they decide what way they are going.
Look for a BASF or Dupont store around you and ask for an epoxy that does not require an acid etch first. If it requires an acid etch run don't walk!
why not the ppg?

all of the tech sheets (2) that i have read about the dplf series says

if film build of dplf is less than 1.2 mils, metal pretreatment of dx1791/dx1792 is required

http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-232ca.pdf from 2000
http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/d...oxy_Primer.pdf from 2002
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