I think you should look into 1 of 2 things both involve getting the temp from the turbo itself contained. 1, they sell ceramic covers for turbos that reduce the amount of heat dissipated off of the turbo. 2, use header wrap. I worked on a friends twin turbo RX7 that had huge problems with heat because of huge aftermarket turbos. We did these same steps above and had great results. The ceramic covers can be hard to find though.
If you ever want to experiment with dams or skirts, circle track racers have a 1/8 inch thick flexible plastic used for skirts that comes in rolls 18" wide or 4x8 sheets. $30 last I looked.
Make an extra wide dam and see if it works. If it does, trim it one inch narrower, test again. Keep trimming and testing until the benefit goes away, then refab to the narrowest width that worked. It might look ok, or let you know if a dam won't help.
I've put sneaky dams under several cars. Most people don't consciously notice them because most all cars have some sort of dam from the factory, so their mind doesn't register it.
Some kind of splitter under the front roll pan might work without being very noticeable. Even 1" wide might help. Small aerodynamic alterations often make large changes in flow.
Nice Car.... wish it were mine. really
Sounds like your rad is the problem, might want to look at saving up for a custom 4 core AL unit made for your space limitations.
That being said, most of the underhood temp issue will be from the turbo, a small square hole directly over the turbo with a grille will vent underhood air from the turbo and direct it over the hood at speed. Done correctly it could look low key and being functional would add some nice detail to the car...not to mention being able to see the turbo from the outside.
Nice install BTW! Love what you have done so far!
correction and clarification...
the engine heat added to the wax in the stat "expands" the wax to overpower the spring and force the stat open.....
(my original post is arse-backwards)
"if" the radiator can cool the fluid in the rad to the point that the wax does contract and go back to a solid state so that the spring will close the stat "then" the 160* stat is acting as a 'control device'.....
I should have worded my post that for the vast majority of cars that are engine and rad btu transfer balanced for 180* plus, just adding a 160* stat does not act as a engine temp control device....
(you need alot bigger radiator so the stat "will" constantly open and close)
the best method you can use for 160* stable temp on a warm day is definitely cooling the oil.....
you posted that the single tranny cooler wasn't "quite enough" in traffic....(principally due to not enough tranny pump fluid gpms at low rpms which is hard to change)
"fair to good chance" that adding just several simple tranny cooling tricks will allow you to remove the second cooler and substitute the needed oil cooler in it's place!
you posted that you like to tinker so "just for the idea's"....
#1: simple to do exhaust pipes heat shields:
at a stop, with next to no air flow, the 900* pipes are radiating a tremendous amount of btu's into the bellhousing and tranny....
just a sheet metal piece with a small air gap on both sides will stop 80%+ of that heat from being absorbed into the tranny at a stop light....
(30%+??? chance that is all you need to do depending on the pipes)
vent the bell housing:
the torque convertor is the principle heat source and it lives in a almost no air flow sealed aluminum oven!!!!
lack of air flow over the whole tranny surface at a stop is transfering the excess btus into the tranny body and fluid...
if the bell housing has a torque convertor access cover just adding holes to it will help, the starter gear teeth are a heck of a fan....
(a bit radical but cut a hole in the bell housing and force/duct air into it)
increase the diameter and length of the aluminum tranny lines to and from the cooler:
aka: cooling accumulator?
pretty amazing how much cooling that just more aluminum tubing surface area and moving fluid exposed to a cooler air temp for just a bit longer time period will do ....
(alot longer=flow resistance working against the tranny pump so do use larger tubing to compensate)
("get creative"...add fins to the tubing**)
change to synthetic tranny fluid...it does transfer heat better and run cooler
minor improvements to slow the heat up/speed the temp recovery:
duct and direct more ambient air at the bell housing and tranny...
add "mega" surface area cooling fins to the tranny pan to act as a oil heat sink (see pic'**)....
without a oil cooler, all the heat generated by and held in the rotating assembly (upwards of 400*+) can only escape by oil splash heat transfer into the block to be picked up by the water jackets and removed by the rad....
take that much load off the rad may get you what you want....
**footnote: the gazzillion square inches of surface area extrusion I used on the tranny pan (happens to be some scrap industrial machinery lexan safety cage framing material) does have a 3/8" centered hole down it's length....
(I was bored and I am nuts)
I drilled 100's of holes thru the "fins" part and plumbed lengths of it in as the tubing to my cooler....
(my nature, I hate to throw something really good away)
I had a bunch left after the tranny tubing work so I drilled that and mounted it on the engine oil pan and tranny pan.....
(LOL, worth it just to see the look on someones face when they do look under the car...."what the hell is that????")
ps: check to see if there is/isn't a combo single tranny and oil cooler size that can fit????
pps: a really cheap way to experiment with air dams is $5? black polyethylene garden bed edging....(for more ridgid just stick a coat hanger in the open tube part)
Last edited by red65mustang; 06-30-2008 at 02:12 PM.
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