How to find pinion angle? 5.3LS into a '37 chevy
 

Hello,

I'm installing a 5.3 LS from a 2003 Silverado into a 1937 Chevrolet 4 door. I'm using a Ford 8.8 rear end from a 1999 Explorer. I have the rear end mocked up and bolted in but I have yet to tack in the perches because I don't know how to properly find the correct pinion angle. My engine and transmission are bolted in.

Could someone explain to me how to find my pinion angle. I don't want to end up with vibrations. This will be our family car (my wife's daily driver) and we intend to keep it forever (as long as we live anyway), so I want to make sure it's set up as close to perfect as possible.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSCF5848.jpg
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/...7/DSCF5867.jpg

Thank you,
Brandon

you can get it close

**but for the welding of the perches, i would save it for almost last
because you need to get the weight on the susp.**

it needs to be about the same amount of degrees from straight as the trans
(example #2)

here is a pic i stole from another thread
try the search, i know the are some links to a couple of guides on here somewhere

http://hotrodders.com/gallery/data/5...ngles.jpg?9028

x2 with what Matt said. Dont weld the perches until you have the full weight on the suspension. it will mean that you will need to pull the rear out again, but to build your car correctly you will need to pull apart that car multiple times before final assembly. Just go down to china tool aka harbor freight and buy a magnetic angle finder for a couple of dollars to establish parallel angles.

thats what I use :thumbup:

Good advice. Wait till you have the body on and all the weight on the suspension. With the weight on the suspension set your pinion angle and tack the perches in position, then remove the rear and weld them on. Its the best way to set your pinion angle. AND use the second example in the illustration as a guide. The output shaft of the trans and the pinion need to be as close to parallel as possible. Also the trans output shaft should be a few degrees down which means your pinion will need to be about the same angle in the opposite direction in order to be parallel.

Centerline
HotRodsAndHemis.com

"The only place you'll find a helping hand is at the end of your own wrist" - Joe "Dr. Olds" Mondello

Ok, thanks guys. That's some great advice I hadn't thought about with getting the entire weight of the car before tacking the welds. I'll swing by Chinamart and pick one of those up.


Thanks,
Brandon

I'm bringing this thread back to life. The illustration that shows the drive shaft in perfect alignment is wrong. If you where to have that condition and took a long cruise on a smooth road (OK, these don't exist anymore, I know) that didn't give much suspension variance the bearings in the u joints wouldn't roll. If the bearings don't roll they will sit in one position in the caps and Brinnel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale. This would be especially damaging with an IRS. The u joints won't last long like that. Your much better off using the second example, using 2* to 4* of offset. JMO :rolleyes:

I may have not worded that correctly
make it look like example #2 not #1

Matt, I just went back and read your original post again. I see that you had already suggested the 2nd option, so my comment was not directed at you but at the illustration you used. The fact that they list the first position as "perfect, inline". Whoever did that got it wrong!! :mad:
This all puts me in mind of the Beachboys, I wonder, is there such a thing as a "good vibration"?

yes there is--but its found in the back seat--not the drivetrain :pimp:

Pinion angle
 

If your using a 8.8 inch axle from a ford explorer 4x4 rear axle you will have a 2" offset from your third member to the center of your transmission yoke depending how long your drive shaft is depends on the degree of offset. It is best to keep a 3 degree or less offset.

engineering specs
 

powerrodmike posted this link 5 years ago http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

Last week there was another discussion about drive shafts and posted again.