how to fix a small run "single stage" - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 09:39 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: vacaville
Posts: 57
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
how to fix a small run "single stage"

Well sprayed my falcon this weekend and have a small run. I've fixed them before, been a while. Was just wondering if you guys have any tricks out there? now I gotta cut and buff. Then lay the satin down

Last edited by 68dustin; 07-29-2013 at 09:46 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 09:55 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Lethbridge AB.Canada
Posts: 32
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
If its in a flat area I like to use a single edge razor like a wood plane and scrape alnog the length of the run and shave it down so its level.Then you can block it a bit with some 800 or 1500 then 2000 and up if need be.Blocking runs can be very challenging and it can be difficult to get them flat.

Here is a vid of how I do it,lots of other ways as a book could be written on run removal.In this vid he uses a sander but you could use a block(I have a hockey puck cut down to an inch by two) or a small 3" orbital sander.After dealing with runs over the years the little sander makes it easier for me to get rid of scratches.


Last edited by Typical car guy; 07-29-2013 at 10:01 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to Typical car guy For This Useful Post:
68dustin (07-29-2013)
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 11:11 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: vacaville
Posts: 57
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
how long should I wait to knock it down after painting.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 11:11 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,606
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 158 Times in 129 Posts
place some 2 in tape over the run . sand with 320 wet on a hard block. you will cut through to the run without effecting the area around it. when it's down fluch remove the tape and block a little with 600 the sand and buff as usual .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to shine For This Useful Post:
69 widetrack (07-29-2013)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 11:31 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: vacaville
Posts: 57
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shine View Post
place some 2 in tape over the run . sand with 320 wet on a hard block. you will cut through to the run without effecting the area around it. when it's down fluch remove the tape and block a little with 600 the sand and buff as usual .
PLACE THE TAPE OVER THE RUN? or around the run?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 68dustin For This Useful Post:
69 widetrack (07-29-2013)
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 12:16 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 58
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 610 Times in 554 Posts
I hope that Shine doesn't mind if I jump in here but, you place the tape on either side of the run, that way when your sanding, you won't be sanding the area that isn't effected by the run. If you use 320 grit, make sure you don't over sand. 320 grit can be fairly aggressive. Cut off what you can gently, let the paper on a block do the work, then jump to 800 grit wet, then 1,200 or 1,500, then 2,000 grit and polish.

Yes it can be a little tricky, just take your time, don't be in a hurry and it will be fine.

Hope this helps, from a guy that has gotten lots of runs.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 12:19 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 58
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 610 Times in 554 Posts
Shine is correct, I reread the post...I have always place the tape on either side but if you put the tape over the run, you will only remove what is a run and you will be able to tell when it's gone by the paper cutting into the tape on either side.

I haven't done it this way before but I will in the future, it just makes to much sense. Again it's a good day, I learned something.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to 69 widetrack For This Useful Post:
tech69 (07-29-2013)
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 12:20 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 12,669
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 611
Thanked 943 Times in 844 Posts
Around it, the point being when you sand the run, it's MUCH thicker than the surrounding area right? So if while you are sanding the run if you cut the surrounding area even a quarter as much as you do the run you WILL sand thru that surrounding area. double

So NOT TOUCHING that surrounding area is of up most importance!

Personally I don't go that coarse, I don't touch something like that with coarser than 500 or 600. But if you don't sand it all the way and you DON'T TOUCH the surrounding area you can pull it off. You cut the run down but NOT flat with that coarser paper, then switch to finer, 600-800 and finish bringing it down almost all the way, then switch to 1000, then on to 1200, 1500,2000 and polish. But anything coarser than 1000 shouldn't touch that surrounding area.

My old stand by is a very narrow block I made by cutting a 3M rubber block into pieces. If you are working with a nice flat block and you wipe off the water with a squeegee checking on your work over and over and over being sure you aren't cutting the surrounding area but ONLY the run, you can do it.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 12:23 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 12,669
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 611
Thanked 943 Times in 844 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Shine is correct, I reread the post...I have always place the tape on either side but if you put the tape over the run, you will only remove what is a run and you will be able to tell when it's gone by the paper cutting into the tape on either side.

I haven't done it this way before but I will in the future, it just makes to much sense. Again it's a good day, I learned something.

Ray


Oh yeah, interesting, never did that before, makes sense.

Brian

PS: I posted my last post at the same time as you and didn't see this.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 12:28 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 58
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 610 Times in 554 Posts
I agree Brian, I don't start that coarse either...I usually start with 600 grit. I can see going real coarse if it's a huge run and I understand Shine's methodology, better chance of getting the run completely out with coarse paper than a paper that's to fine..but for me 320 is a little coarse.

I do like the idea though of placing the tape right over the run and sanding though the tape and onto the run, you should eventually get a perfect outline of the run sanded out without touching anything beside it.
Remove the tape after the run is gone and hit it with the finer paper.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 12:32 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 58
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 610 Times in 554 Posts
And 68Dustin, I thank you, by your question, you made me think...Shine is so right.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 01:09 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: vacaville
Posts: 57
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
COOL.. thanks everyone. i'll give it a try later this week..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 01:31 PM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,606
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 158 Times in 129 Posts
you'll find the 600 will not cut the tape well. when you get through you change to 600. i use a hardwood block that is about 1x1 two inches long .
rub the tape down good.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 01:42 PM
put up or shut up
 

Last journal entry: saying goodbye to the beast
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Antelope, Ca
Posts: 1,898
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 527
Thanked 200 Times in 181 Posts
I use a paint stick with 800 or 1000. Mostly 1000 and I'll take my time. When it's really close to being level I use a hard block with 1200 feathering it out and 1500. By the time it's level I only have to use a 2000. I also use a blade carefully and it works great, but it has to be hard as a rock or chunks will fly. Don't ask me how I know. I'm also hearing about poly putty being used to sand the run while the putty sacrifices itself and not the surrounding paint. Sounds like a good idea but never tried it and not sure if I will. Everyone's different. I just do what works for me and like electricity, I take the path of least resistance.


Often times you think you got the run out but the outline will still be there. Sometimes you have to leave them there or push it. I usually will go back and forth between sanding and buffing til it's gone or good enough without pushing my luck.


EDIT: not sure about single stage. Don't spray it or is use it but the technique I use works for me with 2 stage.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2013, 02:37 PM
STUPID is as STUPID does...
 
Last wiki edit: Crankshaft Coalition Wiki Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Stupidville, USA
Posts: 1,609
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 2
Thanked 71 Times in 66 Posts
I use these after the paint has cured.
Steck #35250 & 35260 Spec-Out Nib Files
I use them with warm water and add a little dish soap to it. Works very well and I have never had one dig in. You have to let the file do the work. These will take the run right down to the normal surface and, with a little sanding it will be gone. IF you are doing this to a metallic there will probably be a shadow left. I will use a little of the left over color and shoot it on VERY sparingly to get a surface match. Wet sand lightly and clear.
Mark
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
single 3" too small screamin67 Engine 2 11-29-2011 08:20 AM
Help with a single stage run dirtracer8c Body - Exterior 7 05-21-2011 05:04 PM
How do I fix a run in black signle stage? shad9876 Body - Exterior 3 07-16-2008 11:59 AM
"we fix $20 tattoos" sign at the ink shop left me wondering .... lowROLLERchevy Off-Topic 11 06-28-2008 05:45 PM
Buffing Out Single Stage Paint "From a Production Shop Perspective" x711 Body - Exterior 18 12-28-2006 10:27 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.