How to go LOW - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2002, 04:51 PM
54 Chevy's Avatar
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Belleville MI
Posts: 92
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post How to go LOW

My 54' Chevy was lowered in the front by its previous abuser by heating up the springs and letting it drop. Well then it was too low so they threw in a few of those twist in spring spacers to get it where it is now. The car drives pretty good but the front end feels pretty loose at high speeds. Though this could just be due to worn out steering parts. These parts and springs will be replaced of coarse. Could lowering a car like this cause a slew of steering problems? Can you do this with lighter rated springs? What springs should I use with a Camaro sub and a 327ci motor?

I think the thing is so low now that I can't run standard 15x6 with 4" backspace wheels without them hitting the fenders. So again, the cars previous abuser, cut the wheel openings to clear the tires. Don't worry I have two fenders just waiting to go back on. When I jack the car up a few inches it looks like the wheels I have would have cleared the orignal wheel openings. Currently the body mount by the drivers door is 7" from the ground near the bolt and 5" near the frame. The car looks great low but I think I need to bring it back up so I can run the tires I want and not hit the original fender openings.


Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2002, 06:51 PM
johnnymopar's Avatar
Love your nails! You must be a Libra
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Stratford, ON, Canada
Posts: 599
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts


Well doesn't that suck? Some idiots should not be allowed to touch anything!

Because the car was subframed you will have no idea how the stock camaro frontend looked when installed with stock shocks. But i think that is what i would do first. I would take out the coils that are in there now and put in what was stock for the camaro. I would see how the car sits like that and then decide if and how you want to lower the car. Then you can lower the car properly if you have to.

As far as suspension damage, i don't think lowering the car would affect the parts that much, but then again you have no idea how the previous owner drove either. They could have been a real wingnut. If you're going to go to all the trouble of changing fenders and coils, etc. you may as well do the tie-rods and ball joints while you're at it. Then you'll have a nice tight frontend.

"Well done is better than well said." - Benjamin Franklin (1706-1790)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2002, 06:01 AM
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: East Palestine, Ohio
Posts: 150
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

If you go to your local parts store you can have them look up the spring for your sub frame in The spring manufacturers book, it should list the springs dimensions and its free and compressed height. You can compare this too what you actualy have and determine what changes you want to make. Imch Spring produces a wide variety of springs in shorter height for lowering. Contact them via e-mail for proper sizing info.

Good Luck
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2002, 06:31 AM
Registered User
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,263
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts

You have more than just one problem here.

First thing to do is have the front clip checked by an experienced welder to see if it was installed properly and the welds are safe. If the previous owner hacked away at this thing the way you say he did he could easily have butchered the clip installation as well. Always think safety first.

Once you have established the safety of the clip installation simply rebuild the existing components. I would install a set of used springs first so you'll have a better idea how it will sit once the springs have settled. If it sits OK then pick up a new set of springs and use them. They'll sit a little high to begin with but within a couple months they'll settle out about where the used ones were. Springs aren't expensive and there's no reason not to use new ones.

If the front end still sits too high for your taste with everything rebuilt and new springs, you have a couple options. You can go the cheap route and cut a half round (at a time) out of the springs to lower the front end and get the height you want (understanding that the ride will get progressively stiffer the more you cut the springs) or you can purchase a set of dropped spindles. More expensive but the best way to go.

The reason your tires come so close to the fenders is that the Camaro clip is too wide for your car. Not too much you can do about that now. Probably a Nova clip would have been a better choice. Anyway here's what you can do.

First you need to know the stock front-end track of the car originally. Most likely on your car somewhere around 56” but look it up to be sure. Measure your current track width (center of tire to center of tire). If it is wider than the stock measurement (and it probably is) then you need to increase the back spacing of the rims to move the tires inward and decrease the track. As an example, if the stock front end track is 60” and your current track is 65” and your rims have a back spacing of 3” you need to increase the back spacing of each rim to 5 1/2” to get the proper track so you’re tires won’t rub and it will look right. (65-60 = 5”, divided by 2 = 2 1/2” increase on each side. Add that to your current back spacing of 3” = 5 ” total back spacing required for each rim.) You may not have to go with quite so much back spacing to eliminate the tire-rubbing problem but you get the idea. This is the easiest way I know of to solve this problem.

Good luck.

[ March 05, 2002: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:59 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.