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Old 01-08-2013, 06:53 PM
meteor500 meteor500 is offline
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the key is to get the metal clean and get adhesion.

Hi,Just to add what i have learned in the great white north and tons of salt on the roads around me,plus my dad was in the car business 50 years as well.I will tell what worked for me and what i found that had lasted when i opened spots like this to repair them...the key to a repair like this is to get the rust out,there are many rust treatments that are very good,(look for phosoric acid on the contents list but the key is to neutralize it properly or the filler wont stick).When i view his photos,i see many dark rust spots,i would first grind the area,then use a stainless wheel on a 4 or 5 inch hand grinder,then neutralize.use the wire wheel again.after you think its clean, take a sharpened centre punch and hammer it thru the weak spot.You need to open a hole for the filler material to push thru and solidify in place,while slightly depressing the metal add thickness to help the barrier.(you will see a small *** form that when solid will hold the filler in place.Once these rusty areas have been filled with whatever water resistant filler you favour(canadian spelling..lol) you can use any bondo.You need to create a water barrier that will keep in place so more filler is better than less pushed thru.I have some 30 year old repairs that have not bubbled on cars that have survived even though done in this used car fashion.Fiberglass matt and resin works best but a fiberglass filler is ok as long as it is not bondo with fiberglas bits added.Most bondo's hold moisture and thats what started the problem.I have had good luck with brazing up a small rust hole(the factories brazed them til the 70's).Most prople who condemn brazing simply havent learned to neutralize the acids in it.The easiest way to do that is to leave it open to our air a few days and the flux residue will react to the air itself,though you could help it with some moisture,all this is in addition to a thorough cleaning of your braze joint or spot.I do like the adhesive idea though i havent tried it but they did replace brazing with adhesives in car roof attachment.I have had cars from all over North America and it amazes me what will stay in place stuffed into a rust spot in the west or the praries but will fall out in 6 months in the east, which is my world..lol.may i suggest that you fellows do what i do to keep rust at bay..spray them inside and out with used oil..its cheap and works really well,though for my everyday wheels i use a service that cant by law use oil anymore and has a commercial spray that is just ok..but if for most of these minor rust issues a good shot of oil will keep it from advancing too much,just repeat every year..all the best p.s...i was just thinking that about this,starting with a clean slate as this chap is,i would clean the metal i suggested the use the adhesive like the waterproof filler to seal the hole and place the steel patch overtop as was suggested,its all about a waterproof barrier and that should be very easy to do for a first attempt. again all the best,mark trafford.Mark Trafford :: pure voice
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