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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I cant say anything about the metal ready but I do know Ospho works (I wouldnt take the chance)
You really NEED epoxy primer over the bare metal BEFORE any filler I prefer epoxy glue like JB weld to fill the pits....
Ospho does NOT need to be neutralized ,its resistant to water ...
Can anyone recommend an epoxy primer that will work with Enamel paint like rustoleum? I know certain products don't like enamel paints.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2013, 05:55 PM
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I like MARTINSR's solution. He is bout right on the leave it along. My 51 was painted 20 years ago. Very good job in that it has basically laste this long, but it is starting to blister on the panel below the trunk lid and at the bottom of the doors. Am in the same situation you are, knee deep into another project. The little blistering of the paint in spots doesn't really distract from it much. I still enjoy driving it everywhere, and still get lots of compliments, even when I point out that it is starting to rust. Its 62 years old and still looking good. When I wash, wax and shine it up I fret over the bad spots, but don't think I'm ever going to get serious about putting any more money into it. Got a tiny ding in the paint years ago, and tried to buff it out, make it disappear. That caused more trouble than if I had just left it alone. If (when) the rust bubbles start to crack and bleed, then I'll have to do something. probably sell it to somebody wants a nice ride and doesn't want to put much work into it.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:29 AM
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SPI epoxy primer is all I use...The best base for any paint..
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:31 AM
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You'll need to get as much bondo out as possible,ie. all of it. Then you must use a rust converter over the rustout. Use an epoxy primer/sealer, then proceed to finish it.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:45 PM
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Just to second a previous comment, POR-15 has worded very well for me. I saw a test in Auto Restorer's (?) Magazine, who were as skeptical as I was. They used it (along with some fiberglass matt) on a floor section lacey with rust as a last shot before cutting and welding on a vehicle meant to be a driver. They were amazed afterward that they could bounce on the lacy floor after the POR-15 dried.

I used it on supports on used running boards for my F150 - just wire-brushed the surface rust and applied POR-15 - and it was still shiny with no rust pop-through 3 years later when I sold the truck. I like to prime while the POR-15 is still tacky, beause it dries shiney and is extremely difficult to rough up to offer adhesion for later paint; hard even to scratch with a nail. And, because it is not UV resistant, it should generally be painted. I had a trailer on which I used just POR-15 have the surface deteriorate over 4 years, while the supports under the truck and a brake vacuum booster held up well not exposed to sunlight.

Read the label and follow the warnings. If you close the can without plastic wrap under the cover, you will NOT reopen the can short of destruction. If you keep dipping a brush in the can instead of pouring out what you need, or if you pour left-overs back in the can, the whole can will solidify - looks neat but not useful. Also, I recommend gloves and clothing about which you care little or not at all.

Good luck.
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