How high can my 283 rev, safely. - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2008, 07:24 PM
espo1980's Avatar
If it doesn't fit force it!
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Baltimore MD
Age: 33
Posts: 28
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by spinn
its a 323" 4speed w/ 3.23 gears. iron cop 302 heads 1.88/1.60's 318" heads/ factory adj shaft rockers.

about 9.91

54cc 's shaved/worked
4.0? bore gasket
.028 compressed
.060 down bore


if i switch to magnum heads i will lose a little, but gain a lot.

as is , it pulls like the first 4 gears of a 5 speed 90's mustang 5.0L.
I've only been in one 90's mustang. I believe it was a 302" . Wasn't to bad through forth gear. Fifth was terrible

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2008, 07:26 PM
espo1980's Avatar
If it doesn't fit force it!
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Baltimore MD
Age: 33
Posts: 28
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Spinn

Quote:
Originally Posted by espo1980
I've only been in one 90's mustang. I believe it was a 302" . Wasn't to bad through forth gear. Fifth was terrible
Do you run 93 octane in that Mopar?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2008, 08:31 PM
spinn's Avatar
Your Money or Your Life
 

Last journal entry: This makes a huge difference
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: midwest
Posts: 2,344
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 76 Times in 74 Posts
whatever i can get a full tank of. gas is being rationed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 10-06-2008, 07:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
Age: 33
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
FOr the 283, this is what I would do...

Buy some 5.7 Eagle or Scat 5.7 rods (they come with ARP bolts)
Buy a set of Keith Black 283 + .030 (or whatever size your bore's are), the pistons are sold by summit with a +4cc dome (hyepereutectic)
Buy Fel Pro .015 steel shim gaskets
Balance the assembly
Put ARP studs in the bottom end
And a solid lifter cam of your choosing that runs on 9.75-10:1 compression because with a .025 deck height, +4cc piston, and a .015 head gasket with a 64cc chamber should equal about 9.75:1 with a 3.905 bore (if the block was decked down to .020 or so you'd be looking at 9.9:1)

Titanium 10 degree retainers and 10 degree locks with a good set a springs and that thing will be good 6500-7000 depending on how much duration you can get away with.

Machine work + parts= about $1100.

cheers
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 06:53 AM
espo1980's Avatar
If it doesn't fit force it!
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Baltimore MD
Age: 33
Posts: 28
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
re: How high can my 283 rev, safely.

Thanks for all the info. I wanted to menssion this 283 is bored .060. and is together and running in my 1980 Monte Carlo( The car is far from original, I've changed almost everything that broke over the years). It has a 600cfm electric choke machanical seconds Edelbrock, Edel-2103 400sb cam(not sure who told me it would work well), 327 heads double hump #3782461(think I know the specs but can't be sure until measured), flat tops with valve pockets, forged stock crank and 5.7 rods, (reconditioned) Intake is stock 302 aluminum late 60's #3932472.(I hear this is a good piece) Drive line is redone with 350 turbo manual valve body, 1800-2200 stall, gm 10 bolt posi 4.10's. The car weighs 3300 without me. I put the engine together to the best of my knowledge three years ago. No clue about C.R. back then. So I don't have any measurements, other than the bore and stoke and what I gave you. The engine has poor take off and is lacking in bottom end torque. Wrong cam Low compression

Well now I've done my home work. Became a member of this site. And with the resources available here I'm now going to do a little surgery. I am waiting for a new cc kit to arrive in the mail. When it comes in I'm pulling the heads. I'll measure everything. Piston deck hight, gasket thickness/bore, chamber volume( with the new cc kit) , piston head volume. My estimate is $500 to do a cam switch and new gaskets and head work. Man...I wish I would have known more when I put my engine together. That will teach ya!

I plan to run on pump gas. That should explain how radical I'm wishing to go with it. I would like to do all of this work and fine tuning, to take out occasionally and maybe hit the track a few times. And I like the smell of rubber
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 11:46 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Age: 28
Posts: 8,656
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 277 Times in 259 Posts
your head work alone will cost you more than $500... your final price will be around double that. Also for that low of displacement I hope you have atleast 4.10 gears out back, cause you'll need them to make decent times.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 01:07 PM
lg1969's Avatar
Google "Tunnel Ram 406"
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bohemia, L.I.N.Y.
Age: 64
Posts: 1,051
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
Hey ESPO, I did the same thing on my 69 chevelle. I had a 307 bored 30 over with 202 heads from a 302. The cam a was using was the old 327/350hp cam.
The intake was edlebrock torqer manifold and a holley 750 vacuum sec. The tranny I was using is a turbo 350 with a 2000 stall converter and a shift kit. The rear end was a 10 bolt 4:11 gears. I had the same problem you're having, not enough low end torque. The way I was able to got more low end was to change the to a 3500 RPM stall converter, and I had the heads milled for more compression.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 02:29 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO
Age: 28
Posts: 8,656
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 277 Times in 259 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by lg1969
Hey ESPO, I did the same thing on my 69 chevelle. I had a 307 bored 30 over with 202 heads from a 302. The cam a was using was the old 327/350hp cam.
The intake was edlebrock torqer manifold and a holley 750 vacuum sec. The tranny I was using is a turbo 350 with a 2000 stall converter and a shift kit. The rear end was a 10 bolt 4:11 gears. I had the same problem you're having, not enough low end torque. The way I was able to got more low end was to change the to a 3500 RPM stall converter, and I had the heads milled for more compression.

Yep, gearing and stall... its the only way you can crutch your limited displacement. I know you're probably dead against it, but you really can make more power, more cheaply, with more reliability by increasing your displacement to a 350, 383, or 400.... Hell, even if you use a used short block with your head work you'll still be ahead of the 283. then through the 283 in something like a Vega with a turbo.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 02:44 PM
Crazy Mopar Guy's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HotRodCity, Canada
Posts: 456
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by espo1980
Steel reconditioned crank and rods, stroke 3", bore 3.935", hydraulic cam/roller rockers, hei , double hump 68-70 heads, 2-bolt main....
If you can physically get that combo to pull to 7000 rpm I would be VERY surprised. It ain't gonna happen IMO.

Never take an educated internet guess and try to apply it without realizing there might be "consequences"...

Also- how accurate is your tach? I've used different tachs and gotten VERY DIFFERENT numbers, I have had Autometer monster tachs that were out by over 10%. I've had stock factory tachs out by even more.

I wouldn't run out and try to pull a certain rpm, I would get used to the car and find out what it likes to shift at, what rpm it stops making power at, and THEN look at the tach.

But that's just me...?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 02:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NC
Age: 33
Posts: 240
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I was talking about the short block... it'll be good for 6500-7000 and the price will be about $1100, see itemization below...

Bore/Hone with torque plates -$150
Balance Assembly $200
KB Pistons $270 (Floating)
Scat Rods $200 (SJ Bushed)
Line Hone and install studs $300
Hastings Cast Iron 5/64 rings $30
His crank is fine doesn't need turning
SJ Clevite P series rod/mains $50.

My bad $1200 total.

He's gotta set of 462's and he can go comp beehives if the spring seats aren't large enough for 1.430 or bigger springs.
Seems like he mentioned the heads already had screw in studs and guideplates but I don't know and sure another $500 easily if that's not the case. But the size of the cam is up to him after the short blocks done. WHich I thought was the main question- how high can he safely rev the 283? Any SBC on hydralic lifters should be able to go to 6,000-6,100 with the stock oil splash sheilds off the springs. But the weakest part of a 283 is the stock rods and stock bolts- end of story.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 02:49 PM
Crazy Mopar Guy's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: HotRodCity, Canada
Posts: 456
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by espo1980
Thanks for all the info. I wanted to menssion this 283 is bored .060. and is together and running in my 1980 Monte Carlo( The car is far from original, I've changed almost everything that broke over the years). It has a 600cfm electric choke machanical seconds Edelbrock, Edel-2103 400sb cam(not sure who told me it would work well), 327 heads double hump #3782461(think I know the specs but can't be sure until measured), flat tops with valve pockets, forged stock crank and 5.7 rods, (reconditioned) Intake is stock 302 aluminum late 60's #3932472.(I hear this is a good piece) Drive line is redone with 350 turbo manual valve body, 1800-2200 stall, gm 10 bolt posi 4.10's. The car weighs 3300 without me. I put the engine together to the best of my knowledge three years ago. No clue about C.R. back then. So I don't have any measurements, other than the bore and stoke and what I gave you. The engine has poor take off and is lacking in bottom end torque. Wrong cam Low compression

Well now I've done my home work. Became a member of this site. And with the resources available here I'm now going to do a little surgery. I am waiting for a new cc kit to arrive in the mail. When it comes in I'm pulling the heads. I'll measure everything. Piston deck hight, gasket thickness/bore, chamber volume( with the new cc kit) , piston head volume. My estimate is $500 to do a cam switch and new gaskets and head work. Man...I wish I would have known more when I put my engine together. That will teach ya!

I plan to run on pump gas. That should explain how radical I'm wishing to go with it. I would like to do all of this work and fine tuning, to take out occasionally and maybe hit the track a few times. And I like the smell of rubber
Is this the cam in the engine presently?

Quote:
ADVERTISED DURATION: 288 degrees intake and 288 degrees exhaust.

DURATION A .050: 214 degrees intake and 214 degrees exhaust.

LIFT: At cam is .295 intake and .295 exhaust. At valve is .442 intake and .442 exhaust.

CENTERLINES: Lobe seperation 112 degrees. Intake centerline is 107 degrees.

Recommended valve springs are Edelbrock part number 5802 or 5902.
If you don't know what valve springs you have, or if you are changing cams make SURE the springs are compatible....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2008, 05:19 PM
espo1980's Avatar
If it doesn't fit force it!
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Baltimore MD
Age: 33
Posts: 28
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
283.....details

Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Mopar Guy
Is this the cam in the engine presently?



If you don't know what valve springs you have, or if you are changing cams make SURE the springs are compatible....
The cam is in the engine. It has about 1500 miles on it in three years. It is fun to drive...3000_5000 rpms power falls off after that. I take it up to 6500 or so just smack 2nd.
I am changing the cam. I will match it to the engine once the c.r. is maximized. The rear is 4.10s. And i'm putting the car on a diet. About the springs, i'llmatch those to the cam. The heads are basically new, 1500 miles on them too. I plan on shaving what needs to come off , so c.r. is 9.5-1.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
high volume and high pressure oil pumps can destroy cam and distributor gears! Knobie Engine 75 02-13-2011 02:22 PM
Bearing Spacers- 283 crank into 350 block jhs914 Engine 13 07-18-2009 09:06 AM
High Oil Pressure 283 nickeldimerods Engine 40 08-24-2007 10:40 AM
high performance 283 steve Engine 2 06-22-2003 03:25 PM
2 Bolt Big Block, How High can you REV mr_chickenhead Engine 8 01-14-2003 07:22 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.