[E.Furgal]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

Well I'll get my notarized statements of proof for my body and paint work on a T in the main arena at the Grand National Roadster show, and Street Rodder mag, the first place with another car, the comment in a respected magazine saying one was one of the most detailed most interesting in the show and deserved a spot in the main arena, and the front cover of a magazine and full articles on a few cars I did all body and paint on. The probably hundreds of other classics and the probably thousands of late model collision repair jobs replacing structural and non-structural parts. I'll get that paper work together along with a photo and video montage so I have credibility.

You will still have a problem with my personality, sorry.

I correct those "little things" because others reading it may need to know and it's interesting.

None of this it personal, me "correcting" a few things doesn't change what you can do and how others see you, you may think it does, but it doesn't. Don't take this too seriously, we are tossing things around in a garage while having a beer, that is what these forums are. It's all good, like you "correcting" me on the lubing of the hinges, I learned something, thanks.

Brian

the CORRECT technical terms some need, as they don't know what (in this case) disc you are taking about.. walk into a autobody surply shop/store and think newbe.. and look at tons of different disc/paper/etc..
brian wasn't correcting you to, "in your face" it was because the thread starter might not know what type disc you guys are talking about..

[69 widetrack]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

even if the car is packed bumper to bumper with bondo ,the trick is for it NOT to look like it is...it takes experiance,lots of it....
I pefer Z-grip along with EZ sand finishing putty.One coat of z-grip fills just about anything I need sometimes two if I dont have time to do proper metal finishing...after I sand with 36 I quickly breeze over it with 80 then start with the ez sand putty and 80 grit all the way to 320 and a thin coat of primer ,it works great for me and quick,i like that part

I especially like the finishing in 320 part...no sinkage and sand scratches showing up later

[deadbodyman]

Theres a few common mistakes I still see all the time. first is with the masking before the primer I see a lot of guys masking too close to the bodywork and priming right up to the paper creating a hard primer line,the problem is when that line is sanded out it'll still show through as a ghost line.The proper way would be to mask of well beyond where the primer is, 3-5inches or more.
Second and even more common mistake is only sanding to 180 and priming. Sanding to 180 on the filler work is ok and wont be any trouble but the surrounding painted area needs to be takin down to 320 so theres a smooth transistion from 180 to 320 for the primer to stick to,going from 180 to shiny paint just dont cut it. and please never prime unsanded paint,I see this all the time,someone will prime 4-5 " past the sanded part and all it does is waste valuable time sanding it all back off,hours in some cases ...A good rule to go by is when you mask for primer the tape should never be stuck to shiny paint ,only stick the tape on something thats been 320 sanded (320 dry or 400 wet)
So you see, your primer IS important but knowing WHAT kind primer to use and where and proper preping is MOST important. Just using the absolute best primer on the planet wont get you a better job...PREP is everything in this biz....

[novafreek6872]

@ dead

You ALWAYS have great tips. Thanks

Andy

[deadbodyman]

LOL,You probably wouldnt say that if you worked for me...
I always let the guys make the mistakes first THEN I show them how to avoid them and make life easier...That way they understand completly the value of what I'm showing them. Something I hear all the time is: WHY didnt you show me this BEFORE I wasted all that time..