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Old 01-14-2012, 07:58 AM
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How to keep chevy truck bed sides straigt

I am in the process of getting my truck straight and at the moment i am working on the fenders and bed sides.

I have started making the fenders straight, especially the mounting flange.
If i lay the fender on a flat surface, the mounting flange lies totally flat on the surface.
Also my bed side is completely straight.
But when i Mount my fender to the side, the side gets out of shape.
Even if i just hand tighten the bolts they show stress-spots in the inside.

I don't know what to do to keep the sides straight.

Anyone any idea or is this mission impossible.

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Old 01-14-2012, 10:11 AM
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Is the side of the bed mounted into the bed itself or are you fitting this before the bed is assembled? Also, are you using the large fender washers?
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:02 PM
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first hammer any high spots back in where the old bolt were. i don't know of any way to not get a high low when you tighten the bolts, short of adding more bolts in between the current bolts. i believe that is why you use the fender welting, item #9 on lmc truck (page 13) web site. it covers the high low in between.

i used 1/2'' wide 3m double sided tape to hold the welting on the fender and then bolted it to the truck.



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Old 01-14-2012, 02:31 PM
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I do use large washers and the bed is completely assembled.
they are new bed sides, and it is not only the spots where the bolts are but also the whole panel warps a little.

I cant figure out what to do to correct that.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:01 AM
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Ahhhh, new bed sides, I didn't know what you meant in your original post.

You need to look at how you can stop the bolt from smashing that metal down right at that point, there are many different things to look at.

First off, the hole in the fender is kinda large as I remember, the bolt in the bed can sink into that hole. So start with putting a washer between the bed and the fender to cover that hole up so the bolt can't sink into it. Second, what welting are you using? If the welding is kinda thick but can compress, there is another problem. The bolt is compressing the welting while between the bolts the welting stays thick and this causes the bolts to sink in.

You can also put a spacer over the bolt on the outside of the bed that goes into the hole on the fender. You can make this spacer out of tubing or something and limit the amount the nut will screw down onto the bolt. You can make it so the bolt doesn't smash down the metal at all. But I am thinking the weight of the fender may pull down pulling the bolts into the metal anyway so all these methods may help but not eliminate it completely.

I am thinking if you wanted to eliminate it completely you need a support against the side of the bed where the fender bolts that goes down to under the bed so the fenders are supported by more than just those bolts.

Brian
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:05 PM
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Thanks for some info on that.

I have welded steel strips on the inside of the fender where the holes used to be. I have threaded holes in those strips, so my screw cant sink in the hole.
I plan on not to use a felt, or one that isn't visible.

Today i found out that the tension on the connection between fender and running board is doing most of the damage.
I have to correct the running board so that i can mount the fender to that without any tension. Then the sides warp only a little.
Here's some pictures that show the truck i am working on.

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Old 01-15-2012, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyhotrod

Today i found out that the tension on the connection between fender and running board is doing most of the damage.
I have to correct the running board so that i can mount the fender to that without any tension. Then the sides warp only a little.
It is looking great and you have the idea, the concept it you will. Keeping that fender from moving too, it's not going to be easy because the running boards are going to pushing up or down on them as the frame flexes during driving as well as when some ****** bag steps on the running board! I had that happen more than once with newly cut to perfection lacquer paint on them!

But if you could support it from under the bed that would be the best way.

Brian
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:36 PM
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youve done well....as i was finishing my 39 and experienced the same aggravation....i used the rubber welt and made pie cuts where it had to curve and around the bolts, which helped....but the two main helps on the warped bedside were....1) running board fitment and support rods to frame on running boards....2) 1/2 round bar support rods to frame from lower fender, front and rear....those fender bolts should only serve as a holder of the fender to the bedside....all weight must be supported to frame on fenders and running boards....i have 7 half inch round bar supports on each side total
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Old 01-17-2012, 02:47 PM
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Very nice truck you have. The past few days i have been working on one side.
I redid my running board and refitted it by adjusting the mounts.
I have 2 mounts for the running board, you suggest i'd make an extra one right in front of the rear fender. That i can manage, but a mount at the rear of the fender will be visible if you look inside the fender i think.
Do you have pictures of yours?
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Old 01-17-2012, 03:10 PM
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glad you questioned me on it....had to look and i told you wrong on how many....on each side i ran a 1/2 roundbar from the rear opening on the rear fender(the part of the fender closest to the tire that wiggles the most)....made my own for the running boards and i do have 3 on each board, one on the outside mount bolt(rear fender to running board) to frame....the factory bracing was toast so i remade it with 1/2 round.....one in the middle of the running board....and one on the front in the same fashion as the rear of the running board....then only one on the front fender, from the rear of the wheel well opening(closest to the tire and the part that wiggles)....i did weld the inside fender to the outside fender instead of bolting them and that made the whole front fender assembly easy to take off and very solid....this is correct info and not just me trying to remember cause i went and looked when you reply'd.....
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyhotrod

Is that a mar-k bed by chance? Looks good!
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:29 PM
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Thanks, I made this bed and rollpan myself.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:58 AM
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Just a thought. what about taking some 3/4 x 3/16 flat stock, and using that as a 2 to 4 inch long "washer" between the bolt, and the fender, on the inside of the fender. Or even making the pieces long enough to go from bolt to bolt.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:00 AM
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That was the first thing i did.
The thing is, the bolts pull on the metal. It is nearly nothing, maybe it doesn't even show up after paint but i can see a little gap if i hold a straight iron against it.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:46 AM
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What gauge of steel did you use for the bedsides?
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