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Old 06-23-2004, 07:01 AM
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How long should new concrete cure before painting

I've just built a new garage and wondering how long to cure the floor before applying enamel epoxy paint. I used a poly vapor barrier under the 4" slab so I'm guessing that will add to the cure time.

Also, I saw this question asked on a prior thread but never answered...has anyone been successful using a simple/inexpensive vinyl (like a kitchen vinyl) on a garage floor?

Dewey

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Old 06-23-2004, 07:52 AM
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Well, several avenues you can investigate. First indicator is that building contractors are slapping down floor finishes in new homes and commercial construction within a month of pouring the slab. Cement has totally cured to maximum strength in 28 days. Vapor barrier has no impact on cure time as long as there is adequate water to cause hydration - it is a chemical reaction that requires water, not a drying process. my educated guess is that as long as there is no evidence of standing water or water staining on the surface (looks dry), it will accept the finish fine. Look on the directions that come with the product, or better yet, call their customer service department if all else fails! Yes, industrial tile is a great finish for a shop floor; clean, relatively long lasting, easy to do spot repairs, and good looking.
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Old 06-23-2004, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by willys36@aol.com
Yes, industrial tile is a great finish for a shop floor; clean, relatively long lasting, easy to do spot repairs, and good looking.
How about sheet vinyl? Sure would go down quicker.
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Old 06-23-2004, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cboy
How about sheet vinyl? Sure would go down quicker.
yeabut . . . what happens when, not if, you hit a spot with the torch while taking a swig on your long neck and disintegrate a fist sized hole in the flooring not to mention exposing your lungs to the wondrous gasses from burned polyvinyl. W/ tiles just replace the slacker - w/ sheet flooring you are up a creek! Plus w/ tiles you can do it in 12" B&W checkerboard which is nifty!
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Old 06-23-2004, 08:24 PM
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Hmmm, that brings up a point - won't even the industrial tiles get pitted my flying hot slag? My welding skills usually put more metal on the floor than on the joint.
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Old 06-23-2004, 11:39 PM
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A definite drawback that must be accommodated.
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:46 AM
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One thing to remember with tile is that once it is put down you are going to have permanent glue underneath so if you have to replace you will have to remove the old residue. At least with an epoxy paint it can be renewed at anytime. If you are going to be doing a lot of welding, spilling, etc. I would leave the concrete as is and just coat with a good sealer. At work we use a product called Stonecoat. It is a clear coating that goes over concrete and leaves a shine that oil, etc does not bother. 5 gal. cost approx $125 but did an area about 3 times the average garage. You could probably get by with 2 gal. This is also the same stuff that landscapers use to coat outdoor tiles. We purchased it from Grainger but for some reason I cannot access their site at the moment.

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Old 06-25-2004, 01:23 PM
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Kevin,

The garage is 28 X 48 so I'd guess 5 gal would be appropriate. Two questions, 1) does the Stonecoat provide enough of a smooth surface to allow easy sweeping of dust and 2) how often do you figure you need to reseal it? The finished concrete in the garage looks pretty good right now without painting...except where our dog decided to put a couple strategic paw prints.
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Old 06-26-2004, 03:53 AM
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CBoy....the Stonecoat leave a shiny smooth finish that makes sweeping out a breeze. In my department we have a lot of metal chips, metal dust, are constantly sweeping metal across the floor and the stone coat last between 6-12 months in certain areas and way longer in other areas. You put it on with a mop (it looks like milk when you pour it into a bucket) and it takes about two hours to dry. What it kind of reminds me of is some type of plasticized coating as when it is in the bucket and will start drying around the rim is what it looks like but will break down with water until fully cured. An 28' x 48' area would take less than 5 gals. but if you bought 5 you could always apply a heavier coating or reapply after a few hours to build it up. I'm not one that like the looks of bare concrete but I like this stuff. It gives a real high gloss to the floor. I would be cautious though with wet feet as it would tend to be slick but no more than tile would be. If I could get into Graingers website I would link you to it but I'm not quite sure of the spelling. I don't know whether it is Stone-Coat or Stonecoat. I guess I can look at work Monday and let you know for sure or if you can get into Graingers website you can read about it. For some reason their site says it does not support my browser yet we have IE at work also. Oh well!!

Okay...I found some info. Here is the Safety data sheet as to what it consist of http://www.coastwidelabs.com/Product...20MSDS5900.PDF

And I found this http://www.coastwidelabs.com/Products/stoncoat.htm

Here is a PDF although I don't know if it will link thru. http://www.coastwidelabs.com/product...it/PLS5900.pdf



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Old 06-26-2004, 04:55 AM
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Concrete takes 28 days to reach it's RATED strength,ie: 3000# concrete will withstand 3000psi compressive force without crushing at 28 days. Concrete continues to cure after the 28 day period to some extent. The company I worked for built a parts dept for a Ford dealership a few years back, and waited the 28 days before painting the floors Ford blue to mactch the blue parts racks that were also installed.......3 days later the paint was lifting in big sheets! Had to chemically strip the floor and repaint a month later.
Try placing a 3'X3' piece of clear polyethelyne sheeting on the floor and duct tape the edges to seal it , wait a day or two and remove it. If the floor is damp where the poly was, there is still moisture present in the concrete.
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Old 06-26-2004, 06:38 AM
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Kevin,

I was able to hook into your links just fine. Thanks for taking the time to dig them up.

And thanks for the curing info, BT74. And the spot testing method. If I go the epoxy route I think I'll wait a couple more weeks. But since that Stone Coat appears to be a water base I would think it could be applied immediately.
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Old 06-27-2004, 03:10 PM
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Everything that I have read says 90 days but look on the can of the product that you wish to use and it will tell you.
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Old 06-29-2004, 04:47 PM
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cement masonry instructor says 14-21 days. and you can test it to make sure there is no moisture in it by taping down a 2ft square of bisqueen onto the floor and waiting 12 hours. if there is condensation on the bisqueen then you have to wait longer. if there isnt you can paint.

btw to paint a floor all you need is to cut in the edges with a brush then throw your paint on the floor straight out of the bucket and roll it out. easiest thing to paint on the planet. painted a bunch of boiler rooms for one co. just make sure you start in the corner/wall OPPOSITE the door
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Old 06-29-2004, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bullheimer just make sure you start in the corner/wall OPPOSITE the door
I'm printing out that piece of advice in BIG RED LETTERS and taping it right on the paint can.

Dewey
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Old 06-30-2004, 06:59 AM
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HONEY!!!! I'm gonna be a little late for bed tonight
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