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Old 04-25-2007, 08:31 AM
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How to lower my truck

I have been the proud own of a 66 f100 for 3 years now and I am just now starting to work on it. I have been trying to find suspension parts to lower it about 4 inches and im having a hard time. I was wondering if someone could give me some ideas or websites that could help me find lowering kits.

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Old 04-26-2007, 04:33 PM
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Can't say I know too much about that subject but go to the suspension section & use the search feature & you could try LMC truck parts




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Old 04-27-2007, 10:15 AM
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LMC is a really good site and i have found the springs for the front is just the rear im having problems with
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:37 AM
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need drop sipndals or I beams to lower the front of a twin I beam truck, otherwise the camber will be way out.
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:15 PM
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thnx!!! What will i have to do to lower the back of the truck? heat the springs??
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66_ford
thnx!!! What will i have to do to lower the back of the truck? heat the springs??
not leaf springs. just use lowering blocks, you can get them from 1" all the way up to 6" if you look hard enough, you may also need shims to adjust the pinion angle also, but there sold with the blocks. if it's a coil spring you would just cut the coils, or get new one's that are shorter
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Old 04-27-2007, 06:09 PM
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Well you could always ditch the Twin I beams & Leaf spring and go to a custom air bag set up.




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Old 04-27-2007, 06:27 PM
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thanks everyone for all the helpful information
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:33 PM
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I have done some research and i was wondering if I was to put a 2inch drop spindel in the front, could I still put on lowering springs. And another question would be if i decided not to go with lowering blocks in the rear what could be another possibility?
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:01 AM
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Is the rear axle on top of or under the spring pack? If the axle is under the springs, it can be flipped to the top of the springs. If it is already on top and you don't want to use blocks, maybe some one makes a rear spring, mount relocation bracket??? As mentioned if you use shorter front springs you will have camber issues. There are lowering I-beams, they keep the geometry correct but are pricey.
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Old 04-28-2007, 04:39 PM
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ok, thank you very much!!
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:53 PM
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Lowering Your Truck

I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my 1970 F100 Custom, 1st you need to Consider What Tire and Wheel combo you will be using.. 4" is a pretty good drop for a Ford Pick-Up.. I own a 1965 F100 a 1966 F250 Camper Special and my current project, The 1970 F100 Custom.. Pricey it is to do it properly.. The rear end is a bit easier, As one other person said, flipping the springs will lower it, But beware the rest of the drivetrane, ie; driveline etc. Depends on how old and wore the rear leaf springs are too. If you are REALLY SERIOUS about making Your 66' a TRUE HOTROD, Consider a full front rebuild, Disk Brakes, Lowered I-Beams the whole 9 yards... If You use the HEATING technique on the front springs, Use levels and Tape measures to make sure you don't go to far... NOW, For REAL HELP.. lol try this site if you haven't already: Fordafication.com I got help with my steering in about 5 minutes. My 1970 WAS all Manual.. I put in a new column, wheel, Gearbox, Pump and everything. Had the Box to tight. Drives great now.. Good luck 0n Your 66'..
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DansCustom70
If You use the HEATING technique on the front springs, Use levels and Tape measures to make sure you don't go to far...
Under no circumstances should you heat springs to adjust ride height!

I have a 65 F-100 that is next on my list for lowering. I have done the measuring and this is what I am going to do to lower the truck about 3" in the front, and close to 4" in the rear.

For the rear, build or purchase longer rear leaf spring hangers, that will lower the truck about 1 1/2-2 inches. Then remove the front leaf spring hanger and move it higher on the frame (or build new ones), that will get you the rest of the way. There is not enough room to flip the axle to the top of the spring without C notching the frame.

The front is where it gets tricky. Remove the I-beams and re-drill the pivot mount up as high as you can (about 1" is all you can get), that will lower the front 1" when the camber is reset. Then bend the I-beams right past the point where they are clear of the crossmember so they curve down about 2-3 degrees. You must bend them exactly the same amount on both sides. Reinstall the I-beams and with the stock height springs you will find you have lots of positive camber. Shorten the springs until the camber is where you want it (about 1/2 degree negative is good). If when you get to that point, the truck is still not low enough, bend another degree into the I-beams and readjust the spring height. You will probably have to reconstruct the droop limiters and adjust the bump stops when you are done. Set the toe and you are good to go. Lots of labor, but the parts cost is minimal, especially if you re-use the stock springs.

Andy
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:26 AM
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I agree 100% Andy

On Heating the Front Springs, BUT, Some people do get Desperate, lol, I found that going Disk all around is the best way to go, That way you cover all your lowering options in the process. My 65' took a summer and about $1,200 for the swap, 70/30 on New and Used parts. The I Beams Being the Worst of it all... The Rear being the easiest.. I've never done the Leaf flop on any of mine, and never would, But have a friend that did it to his and it worked OK I guess.. But not the type of thing I would do.. I went 4 Link with Coil-overs..I only came down 2.5 inches, and it is such a much nicer ride now... Your Message Kinda Caught me off gaurd.. I have a Cousin with the same 1st AND Last Name... Dan
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Old 02-26-2009, 07:37 AM
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Lowerin

I Lowered Mine Two Inches And It Made A Huge Difference. 4 Inches May Not Seem Like A Lot But It May Be A Little Much. My Dad Lowered His Gto 4 Inches And It Looked Really Good. It Was Just A Lot More Than We Had Thought.

J Money
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