[against all odds]

P.S. This is like going running with wal-mart shoes vs. higher quality ones such as New balance, nike etc.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by rusthater89

What parts would I need to build a 500 horsepower 350 chevy. I don't want any forced induction. I want it to run on pump gas.

This type of question gets asked several times a week. Invariably it involves a lot of bench racing among the 'regulars' as to how to "best" go about it. Best means different thing to different guys.

It's been said that you can only choose two from the three options:
• build it fast
• build it cheap
• build it reliable
So going fast for cheap- for very long, anyways- is a REAL trick. To pull it off requires the kind of knowledge and intuition that only comes from experience.

If you want a dependable engine w/a long life expectancy, build it around an aftermarket block, crank, rods, valve train, heads, ignition, and induction/exhaust systems. The more stock or low end parts you use, the less potential power or reliability will be the result.

Power is in the cylinder heads. Reliability is in the valve train and short block, and should be as stout as your hp goal requires, not just what your budget allows. You would be better off lowering the hp goal to a number that matches the budget than to try to push the limits on cheap. For instance, I'd consider aftermarket rods as a necessity at 500 hp levels. And a 4-bolt bottom end, preferably splayed caps. But after doing that to a stock block, you're getting close to the cost of a Dart aftermarket block that will be stronger than ANY production SBC block. Obviously a forged crank and pistons are advisable- but not an absolute necessity. Keeping the tune correct- as in NO detonation- is as important as anything else you may do.

But in the end, I find myself wondering... why 500 hp? What makes THAT number the target? Because I can tell you from experience as can others here, that making 500 hp is the easy part. Putting that hp to the ground effectively is harder and more expensive in many cases as just building an engine that makes 500 hp.

Be realistic. Set obtainable goals based on a realistic expectations. Because if all you do is build yourself a bad-A 500 hp SBC w/o any plan as to what you are really going to do w/it is not a plan. It's a whim.

[95silverado]

I too, am trying to reach the goal of 500+ hp. I have a 95 K1500 (Silverado) that I'm turning into a "project". I have had the motor pulled, block bored 30 over, forged pistons, an "rv" cam installed, heads shaved slightly (though I am replacing them with Vortec heads - didn't plan ahead) and headers installed. I have dual 2-1/2" lines thru two high-flow cats into a Flowmaster dual inlet / dual outlet muffler, exiting duals out the rear. I also had the auto tranny replaced with a manual.
Unfortunately, the truck isn't running correctly. When under load and in high gear, I'm getting detonation. Could this be the heads? The more I read, the more I'm thinking it is...

My goal was to add a supercharger to achieve the approximate 500+ hp. What I lack in is direction, alas I come for advice from people that know all the in's and out's of this area.
Should I go for a better fuel injection (TPI / MPI) or stay with EFI?
Should I ditch the fuel injection and go carb? If so, at what cost to fuel economy? LOL I know, 500 hp and worried about fuel economy? Well, I do wanna maximize whatever I may get.
Should I look into stroking this motor?
Should I supercharge or turbocharge? The guy who did the motor seemed to think turbo so that it would only "work" the motor when needed, not like a supercharger would from start to shut off...

Long post, I know... just need a few answers and a place to start.

[zildjian4life218]

Originally Posted by 95silverado

I too, am trying to reach the goal of 500+ hp. I have a 95 K1500 (Silverado) that I'm turning into a "project". I have had the motor pulled, block bored 30 over, forged pistons, an "rv" cam installed, heads shaved slightly (though I am replacing them with Vortec heads - didn't plan ahead) and headers installed. I have dual 2-1/2" lines thru two high-flow cats into a Flowmaster dual inlet / dual outlet muffler, exiting duals out the rear. I also had the auto tranny replaced with a manual.
Unfortunately, the truck isn't running correctly. When under load and in high gear, I'm getting detonation. Could this be the heads? The more I read, the more I'm thinking it is...

My goal was to add a supercharger to achieve the approximate 500+ hp. What I lack in is direction, alas I come for advice from people that know all the in's and out's of this area.
Should I go for a better fuel injection (TPI / MPI) or stay with EFI?
Should I ditch the fuel injection and go carb? If so, at what cost to fuel economy? LOL I know, 500 hp and worried about fuel economy? Well, I do wanna maximize whatever I may get.
Should I look into stroking this motor?
Should I supercharge or turbocharge? The guy who did the motor seemed to think turbo so that it would only "work" the motor when needed, not like a supercharger would from start to shut off...

Long post, I know... just need a few answers and a place to start.

Whats the current compression? Why is the cc of the heads after they were milled? What is the cc's of the forged pistons? What do you have drive train related that will hold 500+hp? Do a twin turbo ls engine.

[vinniekq2]

Silverado, make your own board. Have comparisons of turbo and super charger and see which one best suits you. To hi jack a board and change the subject you are likely to get poor results due to confusion. aDDing a compressor after the engine build is rarely as successful as planning one before the build,,,

[1971BB427]

Get rid of your engine guy if he told you a supercharger is full boost all the time and a turbo is only making boost when it's spooled up. A supercharger makes more boost as the rpm's go up also, and can be underdriven to whatever your engine can handle.
Neither will work if the static compression of your engine is too high to start with. And forget fuel economy completely. If you're trying for 500 HP you're kidding yourself to even think economy.

[F-BIRD'88]

Whats wrong with a supercharged motor that runs on pump gas?
Its a very practical way to get a reliable 500+HP out of a street friendly 350SBC.

[bigdog7373]

1 word: forced induction.
wait.....
A 144 blower will handle 500 horses easily.

[F-BIRD'88]

For 500 hp the 144 was not the blower I had in mind.

It can make 500hp but you have to step on it pretty hard.

A larger blower works better for that power level, on pump gas.
(less heating of the air charge)

The 142-144 blowers really shine in the 430 to 480hp power level.
Water/methanol injection would allow you to push it to 500hp on pump gas.

I had the 177 blower in mind.

[bigdog7373]

Jegs sell a kit by vortech for sbc. Supports up to 950hp, complete kit with everything included. Only $1900!! Its a freakin steal!

[bentwings]

My "little" 350 with a 6-71 seems to be pretty happy cruising the streets and highways for the last 20k miles or so. i drive it rain or shine and have even driven it in the Minn snowy winter. 2x 750 dp work great. I have worked with them for a long time and now get 16 mpg aver and I have hit 17 several times for extended drives. I run on 87 to boot.

It's pretty hard not to make 500+ hp with a 6-71 on a sbc. Compression ratio is the biggest hurdle.

Now just to get a couple of posters corrected......there is quite high vacuum under a 6-71 or any positive displacement blower. there is also higher than normal vacuum directly under the carbs all the time. maybe an inch or more.

Boost will come instantly if you jump the throttle however if you are gentle there will just be a reduction of vacuum. Much of the cruise power comes from the very good fuel atomization and great fuel distribution the blower provides by thouroghly thrashing the fuel/air mix. Granted there is some heating of the mixture but this is not all bad as along with this there is little or no puddling of fuel in the manifold that you get with hot cam and low revs NA. Often the idle improves dramatically. My motor used to idle at 1100-1200 in neutral and was barely drivable in heavy traffic. Now it idles at 750 in gear just like any other car on the road. I can sit in traffic as long as necessary with the AC on. There is no Detroit roll ever.....the mark of poor tuning...save it for the Pro Mods...ugh.