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Its a lot easier and safer to just pull the drive shaft. if the pump dies and you dont realize it you will be buying a tranny. Not worth the risk
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Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity Chet |
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I have seen a driveshaft that the RV co's have that diengagies the drive shaft (eliminates removing it)while towing and must be less then the pump.
![]() found it, $750 http://www.hitchsource.com/remcos-dr...u-p-30332.html |
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The driveshaft disconnect is interesting . Much more dependable than a pump but still kind of pricey . I'm thinking of mounting a bracket of some sort under the rear of the car where I could just pull the u bolts on the rear u joint and secure the back end of the driveshaft in the bracket to hold it up and out of the way . But still leave the slip yoke stuck into the tranny so I don't lose any fluid or get any contaminants in it . That way I wouldn't have to completely remove the driveshaft and have to find a place to store it and also have to plug the tailshaft too . At least that's the direction I'm leaning until somebody throws a better idea out there .
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Quote:
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Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity Chet |
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That's a great idea . I'm sure I have an old pinion yoke somewhere . That is a nice neat way of securing the bearing caps and the driveshaft . Maybe I can mount the yoke in a way where it can spin freely to avoid breaking anything . Thanks for the idea . Chuck
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Tranny Lube Pump
I have been wanting to build a tranny lube pump for my Geo Storm so I can tow it behind my '79 GMC Motor Home (400 SB). The RV pump that cost about $1k looks like it uses a standard RV water pump which cost about $100. The pumps run on 12 DCV and come in different GPM rates. Other than the pump some 3/8 hoses two valves, a tee fitting and a nipple which needs to be fitted to the trans oil pan will be needed. I will write more when I finish installing and testing the pump. Also you should install a low presure switch and connect it to the cars horn so it will beep if the pump fails.
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