[hotwheels1]

How many leafs would you remove from this spring set up?

[eloc431962]

Depends on what you are working on and what you are shooting for.
How low do you want to go?


Cole

[39 chev]

I dont know what you are hauling,but I would remove 4 or 5 leaves from each spring.You've got plenty.

[hotwheels1]

4 or 5 sounds good. I don't have any plans for haulin anything, it is strictly a rust rod....The way it sits right now, i can bounce up and down on the back of the truck and it will not move at all.

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by hotwheels1

4 or 5 sounds good. I don't have any plans for haulin anything, it is strictly a rust rod....The way it sits right now, i can bounce up and down on the back of the truck and it will not move at all.

If thats the case then i would start experimenting with it till i got what i wanted.JMO


Cole

[adantessr]

Originally Posted by hotwheels1

How many leafs would you remove from this spring set up?

From what I have seen on your other posts of this rig, I would take out all but the four longest leaves and just set it back down on it and see how it feels and then add more if you need to, and then measure for new center bolts and u-bolts . You have very little weight here and I'd be surprised if you need more than the four longest leaves.

[cboy]

Just a side note for those swapping around leaf springs. It's not just the number of leafs you remove, but which ones. Removal of the shortest leaf is going to soften up the ride more than removal of the next to longest leaf...and so on.

Also, one needs to do some dancing to get both the ride and ride height you want. Engine weight and position, along with other factors, makes every car different. You may need to first add/subtract leaves until you get the ride firmness you want and then add or subtract blocks or spacers to get the car back to the ride height you want. Depending on how particular you are, this can require a good deal of experimentation.

I've been fiddling with the quarter ellipticals on my sedan delivery all summer to perfect the ride and have ended up with three leaf stacks (using F-100 springs) to soften the ride both front and rear. However, to do this I needed to use 6 degree wedges (normally used for setting pinion angle) in order to retain the ride height I needed.

[Frisco]

Unless you 'C' notch or 'Z' the frame, it will be fruitless to remove any leaves from the spring stack. It looks like you only have about 1" clearance between the rear axle housing and the bottom of the frame at the present time. Removing any leaves will cause you to bottom out against the frame.

[NEW INTERIORS]

I would take out all ''but'' the top four.. You ''will'' Have to c-notch the frame, There's no getting around it..

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Frisco

Unless you 'C' notch or 'Z' the frame, it will be fruitless to remove any leaves from the spring stack. It looks like you only have about 1" clearance between the rear axle housing and the bottom of the frame at the present time. Removing any leaves will cause you to bottom out against the frame.

LOLOL, That is what I was thinking! Heck, remove ONE and it will likely be hitting the frame!

Brian

[adantessr]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

LOLOL, That is what I was thinking! Heck, remove ONE and it will likely be hitting the frame!

Brian

I am pretty sure this is the same guy that was on here on a different post asking about c-notching the frame and if it is he has that part taken care of. He included pictures. This is a before picture. How about it Cheyenne ?

[Chris Kemp]

Originally Posted by hotwheels1

How many leafs would you remove from this spring set up?

This pees people off when I say to do this but it works great and last a long time: Take out all of the leaves except the main leaf. Notch the frame for clearance. Make up two radius rods, one for each side, with hymn joints in both ends. Mount these two rods close to the same mounting pivot point that the front eye of the main leaf spring pins mount too. Weld a bolt on the side of the U-bolt plate and mount the other end of the radius rods there. With only using the main leaf on each side, these radius rods will keep the axle from winding up under hard acceleration and braking. Now that you have done all of this put air shocks or air bags on the axle and adjust the ride hight where you want it.

[Frisco]

Originally Posted by adantessr

I am pretty sure this is the same guy that was on here on a different post asking about c-notching the frame and if it is he has that part taken care of. He included pictures. This is a before picture. How about it Cheyenne ?

I just did a search of his posts. You are correct. He posted pictures on 9/15/2010 of the 'C' notch he did to the rear frame rails. I'm not sure why he posted the old frame rail pictures five days later and asked the question about the springs. Probably just a slip of the finger on the keyboard when selecting the photo(s) to post.

That being said; since the frame rails have been 'C' notched, You can safely remove about half of the leaves from each spring stack. Try every other one except the main leaf. Additional leaves can be removed/added to get the travel you wish.

[AndersonRacing44]

IMO i wouldnt remove any leafs, i would just get new ones =/

[adantessr]

Originally Posted by AndersonRacing44

IMO i wouldnt remove any leafs, i would just get new ones =/

4 or 5 sounds good. I don't have any plans for haulin anything, it is strictly a rust rod....The way it sits right now, i can bounce up and down on the back of the truck and it will not move at all.