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Old 07-29-2013, 04:58 AM
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Thanks for all the input. Great information. Now that raises another question for me. I stopped at 1000 grit then buffed out the car. Is it posssible to go back and wet sand again with 1500 then 2000 after my initial buffing or do I take a chance of removing the clear coat altogether?

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Brian

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Old 07-29-2013, 05:18 AM
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Yes it is...however, caution needs to be used. The fortunate thing is that 1,500 grit and 2,000 grit don't take off that much material, the unfortunate thing is that we don't know how much material you have to take off before you cut through to your base coat. If you let us know how many coats of clear and even what kind of clear you used, brand name like, PPG 2021 concept clear or Dupont's 7400 clear...(Don't know if they even make that anymore) it would make it easier for us to help and perhaps give you piece of mind. I generally apply between 4 and 5 coats of clear on a vehicle for 2 reasons, one is so that I know I have enough material on the vehicle and for depth in the paint job .

A trick to not cutting through to the base is to let the paper do the work. Don't apply pressure to the paper, to many guys push down while wet sanding and that will speed up the cutting process leaving you with that cut through, try a small spot gently with 1,500, then move to 2,000, if you like you can go to 2,500 grit, again gently and as Brian said, all you want to do from one grit to another is to remove the sand scratch from the previous grit. After you've tried it, use your 3M polishing compounds, I'm sure you'll be happy.

Ray

Last edited by 69 widetrack; 07-29-2013 at 05:29 AM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:20 AM
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I have 2 coats of Sherwin-Williams Dimension Pro Over coat on the car. The finish after buffing has micro scratches. I'm considering going with a 1500 followed by 2000 or maybe I should just re-clear coat it?
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:28 AM
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that's not enough at all. You should re clear. Too many grit steps. If you went up to 1500 to 2000 and left a good amount of peel you'd get away with it but none of us know how much peel it had when it was painted and how much was cut. That's all very important because if it came out peely than you have cut more to get there. I would spray 3 coats of clear with the last two being more wet and a longer flash time. If the tech sheet says 2-3 coats then don't spray more than that unless you let it cure, sand, and reclear.

Last edited by tech69; 07-29-2013 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkfan View Post
I have 2 coats of Sherwin-Williams Dimension Pro Over coat on the car. The finish after buffing has micro scratches. I'm considering going with a 1500 followed by 2000 or maybe I should just re-clear coat it?
The micro scratches are obviously from the 1,000 grit paper. It's tough to buff out 1,000 grit especially if the vehicle has sat for a while and the clear has totally cured. When you use a compound to polish, your not only removing a bit of material, your actually attempting to melt the clear from the heat generated by friction from the compound and the pad and allowing the sand scratches to flow together, in effect your reflowing the clear as well as removing some material.

A lot now depends on several things, how confident you are that 2 coats is enough material, how much you want that killer, high gloss, knock your socks off finish and how much you of a perfectionist you are. By posting on here and asking for advice, I'm going to make the assumption that you want that finish, you love the car and you are, to some degree a bit of a perfectionist. That being the case, if you have the time, the money for the materials and you want that type of shine, I would suggest reclearing the vehicle. On numerous occasions, I have had customers bring me brand new vehicles (mostly Corvettes, to get rid of that GM factory Orange Peel) cut it down with 800 grit to get rid of the Orange Peel and give it 3 more coats of clear....then I would start with 1,000 grit, go to 1,500 grit, 2,000 and then 2,500 grit...every step I make sure that I have the footprint left from the previous grit removed...I often go to 3,000 grit if it's a show quality finish the customer is after. 2,500 grit or 3,000 grit, whatever you finish in will make your polishing that much easier and with 3 more coats of clear, you will have enough material to cut and not cut through.

You mentioned that you are using 3M's polish system, that's what I use as well. I only use foam pads, the reason for that is that wool pads generate much more heat and the chance of burning through or melting through becomes much more easier with a wool pad. 3M has a 3 step process, their compound (I'm sorry but some black paint landed on the part number so I can't read that number off to you) but that would be #1, #2's part number is 06064 machine polish, #3's part number is 06068 Ultra machine polish, they also have hand glaze but once you've gone through the three polishing products, I rarely need to use the glaze, it's more of a spray it on just before a show type of product.

I hope this helps and if you have any other questions, please feel free to ask, I'm always happy to help.

Best Regards
Ray
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:18 AM
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Seeing how I'm this far into it, I'm going to attempt to wet sand with 1500 then 2000 and see where that leaves me. If at that point it looks like things are not coming out the way I want them then I'll re-clear it as you guys reccomend and start the wet sanding from scratch. Once again, Thanks for all the great input!!!
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:23 AM
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That is definitely an option, give it a try, and if it works great, the only concern I would have is the amount of clear that is left after you polish, you do need to have a certain amount of mil thickness of clear to protect the base coat...think of it as a cold winter's day...you have more layers of clothing on, now in reverse for clear, on a hot summer's day, you need more clear to protect the base from UV ray's of the sun.

Ray
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:01 AM
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leave as much peel as possible for that very reason. The 1500 is where you really need to be thorough but the 2000 is just for ease of buffing, but forget about peel at this moment.
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Old 07-29-2013, 05:41 PM
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I went back and wet sanded one of the quarters with 1500 followed by 2000 followed by a buff with 3M. Thats the result I was looking for! Everytime I try to attach a pic of the results to my post, the pic blows away everything I just typed.
Thank you all for your guidance and input!
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:53 PM
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great news, man!
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:54 PM
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BTW, how long should I wait before I can put a coat a wax on it? The clear coat is 7 days old.
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:18 PM
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I'm not a believer in wax at all, Paint needs to breath, especially the first 6 months after painting, maintaining the gloss on cut and buffed paint job is much easier than cut and buffing. A quality hand polish that takes as much time as waxing is all you need....all kinds of company's make this product, 3M is what I use.

Ray
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2013, 04:59 AM
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Ray,

Being relatively new to the process, I've never used a hand polish. Can I apply it to the paint job after its been cut & buffed?

Thanks
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:18 AM
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Absolutely you can, in fact that is what it was designed for. if I can give some advice, purchase some micro fiber towels for applying and removing the hand polish...they don't leave any lint, they are non abrasive, they apply and remove the polish better than any other material out there today, my wife likes them so much she replaced all of out dish cloths with my micro fiber towels and I had to go out and buy new ones.

Carry them with you, they do a great job and are not that expensive.

Ray
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Old 07-30-2013, 05:21 AM
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On a side note, these towels are great for when your cutting and buffing as well. With all that polish spatter you get when your buffing, these towels will quickly wipe up the spatter without scratching the surface that you worked hours on getting that scratch free shine.

Ray
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