How to mount your rearend using junkyard parts.
Finally got the Maverick 8" rear mounted up in my '27 roadster.
Land Rover Discovery trailing arms - $35 pair.
'87 Subaru coilover shocks - $18 pair.
'01 Kia Sportage trailing arm (panhard bar) - $22.
Salvage yard steel for brackets - 40 cents a pound.
Setup the rear w/3* of pinion angle.
I sandblasted all the parts and then designed some rear brackets and tacked 'em up.
Built the X-member outta 2" square tubing and mounted the front brackets there.
Cut some patterns and made up the lower shock mounts.
Fabbed the upper mounts also.
Made the outer panhard bar brackets and mounted them.
Fabbed the housing brackets.
Now I'm ready to shorten the Kia trailing arm. Cut the end off, then removed 4-3/4".
16 penny nails to the rescue!
Panhard bar all welded up and mounted.
Everything mounted. Just needs to be finish welded.
While I was at it, I swapped tailshafts on my T5. The stock TurboCoupe tranny would have put the shifter into the middle of the Dodge Caravan seat I'm using. I was scouring Pick-N-Pull and low and behold, there sat a '93 Chevy S10 pickup with the motor removed. The T5 was hanging by the driveshaft and emergency brake cable! Couldn't have been easier! I dropped it down and pulled the tailshaft and shifter plate.
Pulled the tailshaft and shifter plate off my TurboCoupe T5.
Note the difference in shifter placement between the 2. TC tailshaft on the left, S10 tailshaft on the right.
Installed the S10 tailshaft and shifter plate. Now the shifter is a solid 7" forward of it's original location.
TC trans w/S10 tailshaft.
TC trans w/original tailshaft.
Next up will be motor mounts, tranny mount and driveshaft hoop. Stay tuned!
Most of your stuff looks pretty clean, but that Panhard bar is just about the worst case of bad engineering that I've ever seen. The bar needs to be as long as possible, anchored at the very end of the housing on both ends. One mount to the housing end and the other on a bracket off the frame that bolts the bar in the vicinity of the end of the housing tube. The bar mounting points need to be parallel with the pavement with the car at ride height. The bar itself can be twisted up like a pretzel to conform to the available space, as long as the mounting points are parallel with the pavement.
salvage yard parts
The last time I was at a yard I notices several vehicle that have parts that could be used, they looked beefy enough. I'll have to look at your suggestions the next time I go. When splicing tubing I usually try to find a solid bar or , bolt shank to fill the tube and drill some 5/16 holes back a ways to make rosette button welds as well as the circumference, When needing a filler , instead of nails i take a stick rod and hammer it so all the coating comes off, the theory is that the metalurgy is more compatable. MY A roadster project has home made 4 bars that the original builder used toyota tie rods that are about the size of my pinky finger. I have been able to order Dom tubing reasonable priced from a local fabrication shop . I just have to get the wants in so they don't have special shipping, and can be delivered with their regular orders.
nice job.. except.. i agree that panhard needs to be horz as possible, not the angle u have pictured.. also the tie rod. when the rear moved it will tilt the nose of the rear down, might get some vibration on that (maybe).. i built a 4 link that way the rear angle stays the same. and MUCH easier to do a 4 wheel alignment when doing the build, u have NO way to adj it. using heim joints solve that..
One thing.. He doesn't have any weight on the frame right now to make the panhard bar go into place... I think it will be right once the weight of the car is all in place..And yes the panhard bar needs to be as long as you can make it.. You can move the bracket over the rear end (center) to right inside the frame rail over the axle on the drivers side..
As far as the pinion changing.. I don't see that happening with the way the bars attach in front and in the back of the rear end..With them long arms, It will not travel that much in the arch to change it..
I think your doing a great job,, The only think I see is, The frame came out great... (And don't take this the wrong way but), The notch is really ruff.. Doesn't look like the same guy did the frame and notch.. I know you still have to clean it up... But it's over built... Other then that.. It's looking good and I can't wait to see the rest..:thumbup:
I was reading all the forums I'm a memeber of.. And I seen where you was asking on another forum about your panhard bar and you posted about what tech told you... See this is where one forum start's fighting with other forums... Tech gave you good advice just like others here.. Maybe we didn't word it like you may have wanted it.... I know I do that sometimes... But you have to look pass that when your on the web showing your work... I have been told my frames will break in half by some... And I didn't take it well either,, But I moved on with it...
Now maybe you didn't like what I said as well,,, But I'm one that will try very hard to bring out the best in you... That's all.. I told you your doing a great job.... Maybe I was ruff in saying the notch was ruff and a little over built.. But That's what Happens when you ask on a forum... You won't like ever answer people post,, But if you think about what is being said and use it to help you,, It will only make YOU better at what you build..
Tech has been around longer then me and you.. He does know about cars.. As far as the other sites.. There is good people on everyone of them,, And i'm also a memeber there..Take what people tell you and work with it..;)
Keep in mind, this isn't gonna be an autocrosser/racecar/etc. It's pretty much a rat rod that I'm trying to build (hopefully for under $5K) with readily available junkyard/salvage/used parts and my own flawed ingenuity. It's a 1200-1500 lb roadster powered by a turbocharged 4 cyl. Unlike other so called rat rods, I plan to build this car safely.
All opinions are valued and I thank everyone for their feedback!
no offense taken by me.. We just want you to build a safe and to build it as right as you can the first time around.. I think your doing a great job and only pointed out what I see... I seen people run short panhard bars and get away with it with no problems... What you have to keep in mine with a panhard bar is.. The shorter the bar, The more the rear end will move through the arch.. When it's as long as it can be,, That movement is far less,, Thats all..So longer is better for sure.... And I see you have the stands under the rear end ... That means there is no weight at all on the frame now... So when you put the weight on the frame the panhard bar should be very close to being parallel with the pavement..That's what you want when the weight is on it at ride height..Keep pushing forward..:thumbup:
The only other thing I seen is.. When you welded up you butt on the panhard bar,, You put a slug in the butt and welded over it then grind down the weld... If you didn't weld it hot enough you won't have much weld left after grinding off the cap.... You would have been better off leaving the cap pass on it... The only way I would feel safe by grinding off the cap pass is.. If you wouldn't have used the slug,, And would have just filled the butt with weld,, That way you have 100% weld.. Right now with the slug and grind down cap.. It will be weak...Just my 2 cents..
I agree the darn thing looks great!
On the panhard bar weld, what I am curious about is it was only 3/16th or so short, so you welded up that gap using the nails, how did you arrive at that distance? Did you measure from the rear housing flanges over to the frame or center line centering the rear axle housing in the frame and this is how you have determined the length of the panhard bar was off that 3/16th inch?
Because is that is the case and you did this without weight of the body on the frame as Randy pointed out the panhard bar is going to effectively "lengthen" when the additional weight pushes the frame down and the panhard bar goes up in the arc. If you determined that length at this point, when the additional weight is put on the frame that bar is going to be too long, probably just about exactly what you have lengthened it!
Now, that tiny amount isn't much to worry about it, but as Randy also pointed out the weld may not be that great after grinding so maybe you want to re-think that measurement? I nice butt weld with a beveled edge may be a better choice.
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