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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2006, 09:35 AM
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well it finally got to hp TV, they are building a rat rod, but they get all there parts free , i guess rat rods are taking over,will put a lot of painters out of work

Last edited by steve t; 12-31-2006 at 09:43 AM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2006, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve t
well it finally got to hp TV, they are building a rat rod, but they get all there parts free , i guess rat rods are taking over,will put a lot of painters out of work
Ha.. yeah I saw that. But the only thing 'rat' on that ride appears to be the body and where they picked that up at I bet it would have been VERY expensive. Everything else is going to be brand new isn't it? They had a brand new frame powder coated to look like rust???

The thought the spirit of the rat is to build it with what you have or can find at swaps or from your buddies. But I agree, the very first item should be functionality and safety.

-Stephen
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2006, 10:55 AM
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SCULLS, Kevin................Don't forget the SCULLS
Ponch...my bad!!!!!!! I totally forgot the sculls. I was looking on "evilbay" and typed in "rat rod". Some cool stuff. A guy even had a '56 Ford dumptruck sitting in the weeds buried to the axles that he said would make a neat ratrod. Now that would just be too cool. Rat out a dump truck, open the tailgate, slide out some ramps, and drive off a ratted out Neon. God, I'm just giddy with exitement!!!!!
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Old 12-31-2006, 11:35 AM
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i saw you said you want to do it for a few hundred dollars. That might be a bit impossible unless you get all of your parts for free. Even junkyard parts cost money.

You also have to factor in these small things called tools. People can build these cars/trucks for cheap due to the fact that they have the right tools to fabricate things.

To fabricate parts you will need these tools (ATLEAST):

1. Welder (couple hundred bucks for a good one used)
2. Angle grinders
3. drill press or decent drill
4. cutting tools
5. grinding wheel

that there will cost you around 500-800 bucks and that is buying things used or at Harbor Freight.

I do however know a guy who built a nice little rat rod for 1100 dollars with his own tools, and the help of his friends.

ben
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2006, 12:43 PM
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The price for the prise

Hey Gabriel, have you ever read any of the Period culture rags, like OlSkoolRodz or CarKultureDelux to mention a couple of the traditional rags.
Take a visit to http://www.olskoolrodz.com or http://www.killbillit.com

These are traditionalist groups that you are searching for. As far as your quest for a low buck rod, as stated in the post before this one, you can not trust many of those who build these low buck looking rides for actually following the rules in making something safe.

First off, they all need to ba able to pass the local safety inspections and in some states the emission regs, just to be licensed for the open road. Then you have to really inspect these buggies for craftsmanship, especially in the welds of the frames and all the do-dads that have been tossed into the soup.

And as stated before, you are better off building your own rod. Mainly so you actually learn the ins and outs of doing this build correct the first time. Yeah they all look really col and such, but, if it is just thrown together, it doesn't mean it is actually safe to drive as an everyday ride or even over the road and be able to handle all the ventures of a trip across the country.

Most of these builds are just simply impractical and a real waste of good money. Sure they look like they would be fun, but you can only have so much fun before it becomes a hassle to get in and out of and being stuck in a real tough torrential down pour of freezing cold rain and sleet. I myself prefer a hot rod/ rat rod with a roof over my head, mostly for my wife and or girlfriend and kids. This way everyone can enjoy the ride.

And here is the worst of the whole mess in this style of rod, since this fad is blowing the ceiling off everywhere, the price of these old parts are out of site. I noticed you did not relinquish your location, it actually makes it hard for anyone close to you, to be able to offer you some sort of assistance in your quest. Include your location on all of your forums. Now comes the big question, how much money do you have to start this build or even the actual ability to buy something if it is available?

If you have a wad, like $10K sitting around, you can buy your self a pretty good start. I live out west in the mountains and have access to many heaps, but they all cost money, and depending on your location, the price of shipping will bite you as well. There are places all over the east with yards still full of good pickings, just need to hang with the correct groupings of people. There are a few on this forum who actually belong to other forums that will offer you assistance in your quest. There are many here with a great deal of knowledge in the automotive world. This is by far the best school you will ever find, the OSR forum is right next to this forum with the two of the best pools for knowledge at your service.

It will be up to you on how you want to tackle this quest and the skooling you will need to endure and be like a sponge......we all will help you in understanding the building of a safe ride.....and should not matter what style you want to build, as long as it is road worthy safe to drive.
Remember one thing about driving in todays world, your insurance company will be the deciding factor of your build. As long as it meets all standards and it looks safe, then you can get insurance for it and be safe.

Lord Maximo
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2006, 06:34 PM
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My dad passed by, saw the first car, and said it would probably cut your head off if you was in a wreck.

Actually, you would probably be happier if it did, because there is enough jagged, rusted metal, in that body, that you would be torn all to hell if it didn't kill you. But, that car is probably never driven more than 3 miles anyway.

Like pretty much everyone else has said, make sure your car is atleast "decently safe" and solid. Not a rolling jagged death trap with a set of worn out drums in the back being all to stop you.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 02:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Frosty
Actually, you would probably be happier if it did, because there is enough jagged, rusted metal, in that body, that you would be torn all to hell if it didn't kill you. But, that car is probably never driven more than 3 miles anyway.
Most accidents happen closer to home than 3 miles.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 07:39 AM
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I wonder how much trouble it is to get insurance on one of these ratty looking rat rods? Also what is the cost? Mine was not a rat rod , but my insurance folks looked it over really good.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 07:50 AM
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Good point Henry local dmv and your ins co will be deciding factors on what will or will not fly. My ins co was quite thorough when i unsured my 47, Took pics got a professional appraisal partly Ithink because of its apraised value and the fact that I got max coverage on theft collision etc. The 39 is a much lower buck vehicle in fact Im only going to get liability so I hope I fly under their radar.
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Old 01-01-2007, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Highrise
I wonder how much trouble it is to get insurance on one of these ratty looking rat rods? Also what is the cost? Mine was not a rat rod , but my insurance folks looked it over really good.
I think a lot of insurance co's would probably walk away. If they did would it be liability only? Insurance man: What year, make, model is it? Owner: well.....its part 33,37,41... Ford, Chevy, Pontiac, International Harvester... pickup, coupe, roadster, tractor. Insurance man...Ooooookaaaay, I don't think I can help you.
How many appraisers are out there that could put a value on one?
I would love to see the underwriters when the pics come across their desk.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 09:03 AM
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I don't think you could get even just liability insurance on the one pictured in a previous post...you know the one where if a tire goes flat the frame will hit the road. That would be a death trap with a blow out at 60 MPH....liability would be great as you could take no telling how many with you in that rig. I just feel like this rat rod stuff is going to cause hot rodders and streetrodders to be seen in a bad light and it will also cause out insurance etc. to increase. I do not see how they get some of those rat rods licensed for the street.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 09:16 AM
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Insurance is an interesting question. My guess is that many of these cars don't have any insurance at all. And they don't need it since they are not driven on the highway. For lack of a better term, I'll call these the "radical rats". Basically, they are the rusted out and pieced together cars that look like they would be undriveable. And using a quick rule of thumb: if they LOOK undrivable, they probably ARE undrivable.

On the other hand there are thousands of "nostalgia" or "traditional" rats. Or as we old geezers like to call them, hot rods. These cars are driven regularly, they are totally road worthy, and they are fully insured, licensed, and safety inspected. Yet they would fit the classification of "rat"...usually because they are unfinished or simply because the owner preferred the more spartan look of the rods we had in the 50's and 60's.

Here are a few examples of traditional hot rods that easily fall into the rat category. The first picture I took at the 2005 Hot Rod Power Tour. This guy is a "long hauler" (he drives the FULL tour in this bugger and then drives it back home) and he does it year after year. Licensed, insured and ready to roll.



This second car is actually painted, but surely belongs in the traditional category and fits the rat rod definition because it is built and maintained with "whatever is at hand". It belongs to my friend Larry down in the Milwaukee area. It's driven hundreds of miles every year in rain, sleet, snow and sunshine and is fully licensed and insured.



And finally a couple of "primer-donnas" with the old school look. The coupe is one of my favorite cars ever because, for me, it brings back memories of the "look" of some of the very first hot rods I ever saw around my little home town. But the owner, Jerry, has incorporated just enough updated equipment to make this car as safe and sane as my wife's Rav4. Again, both of these cars have been fully licensed and fully insured with no problem.



My point here is that "rats" come in a lot of different shapes, forms, colors, and sizes. Some safe, sane and easily insured to their full value. And some...well, death traps that are not insured because they have no business being on the road. So when we talk about insurance or value or drivablity, I think we need to make very clear distinctions what sort of "rats" we are talking about...the "radical rats" that are basically show cars or the "traditional rats" that are hot rods in the true sense of the word because they are built to be driven.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 01:45 PM
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ratrods

Do what I did. Get a job at a gas station where cars are repaired. Even if its newer stuff, the basic principles still apply. Then look for an old pickup, '50s and '60s trucks are still cheap and some have V-8s. They also probably have the Rat Rod look already. Concentrate on the SAFETY aspects. Good brakes, suspension, steering etc. The cool look can be covered by good tires pretty easily. As for cool sound, even a worn V-8 sounds good through glass packs. You can overhaul it as time, money and knowledge come to you. The important thing is, take it slow and don't take on too much too soon. Just have fun!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 02:16 PM
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I just found a 50's Ford truck frame, with straight axle, rear-end, pretty much all complete, but stripped, and on blocks. The cab was sitting about 10 feet away, not on blocks.

Still, there is still enough aftermarket parts to convert this over to better brakes, and make a good chassis to put a fenderless body on.

Which, pretty much solves the two problems i've always had with building fenderless cars. Straight Axles, and front brakes.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by home brew
Most accidents happen closer to home than 3 miles.
statisticly it's within 25 miles from home.
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