I can help you with this one. As a general rule of thumb 1 quart will do it. If you run into trouble 2 quarts. I have the same set up as you and I can save you hours of frustration bleading these brakes. Also, if you have trouble finding silicone brake fluid at the local car parts stores, many motorcyle repair or parts stores carry this right on the shelf. This will save you from ordering it by mail order.
Go to the parts store and get a one man brake bleed kit for about $6.00. This consists of a length of clear tubing and a small plastic bottle with a magnet on one side.
I always start with the furthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder and go to the closest and that has worked for me. Here's is the trick that makes the difference. Get a jack stand and stick the blead bottle on that and situate it so the bottle is higher than the caliper or wheel cylinder. (You can use the inside of the fender if you have steel fenders) Have the blead tube situated so it has an upward angle as soon as it comes out of the bleader screw. Rig up a light in there so you can watch for bubbles. Pre- blead your master cylinder on the bench. Fill the master cylinder, and you can blead each wheel cylinder or caliper by yourself, by pushing the brake pedal up and down. You don't have to close off the bleader screw each time you let up on the brake pedal, but don't let your master cylinder run dry. When you first start you will see air bubbles coming thru that clear bleader hose. When you have all the air out, go to the next wheel. Don't go to the next wheel until you have all the air of the wheel cylinder you are working on.
I have blead some of the toughest systems out using this procedure so I know it works well. Hope this helps you out.