[71corvette]

it is a new metal grille for a 40 chevy truck, I live in Louisisana but could ship it anywhere.
I have a new grille, the old one was a little rusty

[DanielC]

Good chroming is expensive. The part has to be cleaned, and in perfect shape. It is then copper plated, and hand polished. Then it is nickel plated, and again hand polished. Finally, it is chromed, and polished. Just about every step in the process generates toxic waste that has to be disposed of in a environmentally clean manner. All this costs money.

[71corvette]

I know it is not cheap but what, $200? $300 maybe?

[techinspector1]

Call a shop in your area that does custom chrome plating. Here's one ....

Located in Fort Worth, Texas, Advance Chrome Connection does it all! From Custom Engraving, Polishing and Multi-Stage Chrome Plating, to Bumper Straightening, Chrome Plating services for, but not limited to, motorcycle parts, automotive parts, antique automotive parts, boats, street rods and a variety of other items.
ADVANCE CHROME CONNECTION
2920 North Main Street
Fort Worth, TX 76106
817-626-3064 Office
817-626-3073 Fax
http://www.advancechromeplating.com

A low cost alternative, if this isn't a restoration and is a rod build, is to paint the grille body color or paint it a contrasting color to the body. Personally, that looks better to me than chrome. 'Course, I'm an old primer and rust rodder who's lost in the 50's, so what do I know?

[302 Z28]

I would be willing to bet you can't find anyone that would touch it for less than $1500. I have a friend who had some grill teeth chromed for his custom 51 Merc and the total price was in excess of $2000.

Vince

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by 71corvette

I know it is not cheap but what, $200? $300 maybe?

More like ten times that amount. As others have noted above, good chrome is like a good paint job - it's primarily labor that you're paying for. In addition, EPA regulations have increased the cost of doing business. A friend of mine had several parts to be plated and walked them to all the chrome vendors at the Hershey swap meet this fall. Quotes were all over the map - the highest was twice the lowest quote. He did not go with the least expensive, either.

The actual price will vary based on the condition of the parts. Just as with paint, you won't know for sure until you strip all the old coating off first.

[dinger]

Originally Posted by joe_padavano

More like ten times that amount. As others have noted above, good chrome is like a good paint job - it's primarily labor that you're paying for. In addition, EPA regulations have increased the cost of doing business. A friend of mine had several parts to be plated and walked them to all the chrome vendors at the Hershey swap meet this fall. Quotes were all over the map - the highest was twice the lowest quote. He did not go with the least expensive, either.

The actual price will vary based on the condition of the parts. Just as with paint, you won't know for sure until you strip all the old coating off first.

I agree with these guys. IF you know someone in Mexico, you may get it done for less and a high quality job. Chroming in my area is getting to be like a lost art, few chromers do nice work and STILL charge many body parts to get the job done. The guys in my car club will get a bunch of parts together and make a Mexico run, it's very nice work.

[71corvette]

Originally Posted by dinger

I agree with these guys. IF you know someone in Mexico, you may get it done for less and a high quality job. Chroming in my area is getting to be like a lost art, few chromers do nice work and STILL charge many body parts to get the job done. The guys in my car club will get a bunch of parts together and make a Mexico run, it's very nice work.

thanks, I bought one on ebay. Mexico does not have the EPA on there butts.

[Filmjay]

Well, since you're getting it chromed anyway, you might as well clean it the best you can first.

To remove rust and not harm or lose any metal on the part, do the following steps....

Things you will need...

-1 plastic tub big enough to submerge your grill. Rubbermaid comes to mind.
...or at least big enough to submerge half of it, and you can flip it and do the other half later.

-1 box of WASHING soda (available at WalMart, or whatever big retail store is near you.)

-1 strip of scrap steel (NOT stainless. under NO circumstances should you use stainless steel for this method. The electrolytic reaction between the chrome and stainless will create a VERY nasty compound.) Rebar or a metal broom or mop handle would be good.

-12v battery charger capable of a constant 2-amp current. (Make sure the clips aren't stainless steel.)

-water

-steel wool pad
*******************
With the steel wool, gently remove any surface rust you can.

In a WELL VENTILATED area....

Take the tub, mix one teaspoon of washing soda for each pint water.
Put your grill in the water/soda mix, and hook up the NEGATIVE clip to the grill. The POSITIVE lead should be clipped to the steel rod and set in the water. Don't submerge it, but stand it up in the water against the side of the tub.
Set your battery charger to a constant 2 amps...and walk away.

You should start to see a fizz coming off your part. This is the chemical reaction that will remove the rust.
Leave it overnight. Check it the next day and report back.

Make sure you take pics.

Trust me. It's VERY cool. I think I should put this in the Wiki if it's not there already.

**I just checked...it's not. And this is far safer than the heavy chemicals suggested. So, I added it.

[techinspector1]

Thank you very much. Always pleased to see another wiki contributor step up to the plate.

[71corvette]

Originally Posted by Filmjay

Well, since you're getting it chromed anyway, you might as well clean it the best you can first.

To remove rust and not harm or lose any metal on the part, do the following steps....

Things you will need...

-1 plastic tub big enough to submerge your grill. Rubbermaid comes to mind.
...or at least big enough to submerge half of it, and you can flip it and do the other half later.

-1 box of WASHING soda (available at WalMart, or whatever big retail store is near you.)

-1 strip of scrap steel (NOT stainless. under NO circumstances should you use stainless steel for this method. The electrolytic reaction between the chrome and stainless will create a VERY nasty compound.) Rebar or a metal broom or mop handle would be good.

-12v battery charger capable of a constant 2-amp current. (Make sure the clips aren't stainless steel.)

-water

-steel wool pad
*******************
With the steel wool, gently remove any surface rust you can.

In a WELL VENTILATED area....

Take the tub, mix one teaspoon of washing soda for each pint water.
Put your grill in the water/soda mix, and hook up the NEGATIVE clip to the grill. The POSITIVE lead should be clipped to the steel rod and set in the water. Don't submerge it, but stand it up in the water against the side of the tub.
Set your battery charger to a constant 2 amps...and walk away.

You should start to see a fizz coming off your part. This is the chemical reaction that will remove the rust.
Leave it overnight. Check it the next day and report back.

Make sure you take pics.

Trust me. It's VERY cool. I think I should put this in the Wiki if it's not there already.

**I just checked...it's not. And this is far safer than the heavy chemicals suggested. So, I added it.

thanks for the input, but I found a new stamped chrome one on e bay, theese are getting hard to find, the laser cut ones are out there but the stamped ones are few and far between.
I may use this technique on some other parts.

[Filmjay]

Can't beat a brand new one! Good find.

[techinspector1]

Awright Filmjay, you got your Barnstar!!

[timothale]

you should un plug the charger then let it set for a while to let the hydrogen and oxygen disipate other wise a spark will make those bubbles go boom. this process should not be used for critical suspension parts. it can weaken them.

[Filmjay]

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Awright Filmjay, you got your Barnstar!!

WOOHOO! Well, that's purty cool. Now if I could just get the avatar added that I submitted, I'd almost be a full fledged member.

Originally Posted by timothale

you should un plug the charger then let it set for a while to let the hydrogen and oxygen disipate other wise a spark will make those bubbles go boom. this process should not be used for critical suspension parts. it can weaken them.

You are right. That's why, in the wiki, I posted to do it in a well ventilated area in all CAPS.
VERY good point though.


....Though I am pretty anxious to see what the cab of that old Chevy looks like once it's properly blasted.