[85 k5 mud truck]

i was just wondering how much hp my motor stock should push. 454 oval port

[61bone]

bout 260 hp

[curtis73]

Originally Posted by 85 k5 mud truck

i was just wondering how much hp my motor stock should push. 454 oval port

Uhh... depends on a ton of factors. There were oval port BBCs that made as little as 190 hp and some that made 350+. If its the stock 85 big block, it was most likely a 215 hp version, 7.8:1 compression.

Care to share a few details?

[454C10]

Yes, fairly low hp due to a very small cam, restrictive intake, and restrictive exhaust. But the torque is pretty good at extremely low rpms which makes it seem more powerful than it is.

Nothing a mild cam, intake, carb, and a set of header won't fix. On an otherwise stock low compression 454 engine, 325hp+ and 450 ftlbs+ can be obtained with a few bolts-ons.

I have seen dyno results showing 345hp and 490 ftlbs from a 7.5:1 cr 454 with a tiny 202/210 flat hydro cam, headers, rpm intake, and 750 holley.

[Torque454]

Depends on the year. My 1978 454 (has 781 heads on it) was rated 240hp and 370 ft lb.

[cobalt327]

What are the casting numbers of the heads? If they're the small oval port heads (aka "peanut port"), they suck for anything much over 4000 RPM unless ported and valved. Not even worth the work, IMO. AFAIK, no intakes were made just for them either, except OEM Q-Jet cast iron.

Supposedly Weiand makes one "peanut port" manifold, the #8017 Action Plus. Has a spread bore flange. Whether or not it's actually a PP intake or one like the Eddy Performer 2-O, I'm not sure.

[Dean Pearson]

I have an 85 454 out of a suburban I plan to use in my Studebaker project.
It has cast iron rectangular port heads and the rest is stock.
What will give me the most bang for the buck as far as bumping up the H.P.
???

Thanks ,

Dean.

[632Mantis]

Originally Posted by Dean Pearson

I have an 85 454 out of a suburban I plan to use in my Studebaker project.
It has cast iron rectangular port heads and the rest is stock.
What will give me the most bang for the buck as far as bumping up the H.P. ??? Thanks , Dean.

Run pistons that will give you 9.5:1 compression ratio. ( reference your chamber volume and deck height )
Get a mid-range torque cam. Flat-tappet hydraulic that makes power from 1500-5500. ( matching lifters too! )
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake with a 750-800cfm carb.
Headers. ( Even shorty's with dual exhaust will help. ) Run 2 1/2" exhaust pipe and some good mufflers.
MSD 6AL ignition would be very nice, but at least run an HEI.

Automatic tranny? Run a mild stall converter. Like a 2,000-2,500 rpm.

Do those things, and you will like it.
Shouldn't cost too much money. Good bang for the buck.

One more trick: calculate your rear-end gear ratio based on your tranny final drive ratio, your rear tire diameter, and your max engine RPM's. Choose the optimal ring & pinion set. Rear-end gears can make a huge difference in how the vehicle accelerates.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by Dean Pearson

I have an 85 454 out of a suburban I plan to use in my Studebaker project.
It has cast iron rectangular port heads and the rest is stock.
What will give me the most bang for the buck as far as bumping up the H.P.
???

Thanks ,

Dean.

What's the casting number of the heads? There are small and open chamber rectangle port heads, this will have a big effect on the compression ratio (CR). Also, what size is the piston dome, or a part number? Or are they flat tops? Do you have the heads off? If you do, measure how far down the deck of the piston is at TDC.

Reason is, you need to know what the CR is before you can choose a cam that will work the best for you. If you have FT pistons about the most CR you're going to see is 9:1, that's with 100 cc chambers. 8.5:1 w/108 cc, and 8:1 w/118 cc. You can get away w/less CR than a SBC, but you can't go too radical w/the cam timing before you start to lose bottom end and the off idle and low end response gets soggy.

[Dean Pearson]

Wanted to thank you guys for the info.
In my case I have the original engine that I want to bump up a bit but then I also have a fully machined matching block that is bored .030 on the pistons and .010 on the cam bearings so,....
I plan to just get my car running with the original engine and then once I'm driving it build the second one.
On the first one I fear its going to be a slug. The engine casting #'s are
14015885 (I think) They are hard to read. and the heads say Hi Perf.
6272990.
Hope that helps you help me.

Also here are some more pics. of my Studebaker Proj, It's a 52 two door hard top with a 50 bullet nose.

Thanks for all the advice.

Dean.

[cobalt327]

ID Chevy engines

I don't see that block c/n, but there are two similar:

• 14015445: 1975-'90; 454; car and truck
• 14015543: 1987-'90; 454; 4-bolt; Gen-5

The heads are rectangle port w/325 cc intake port volume, decent heads when matched up to the rest of the engine. They were a replacement/crate engine head.

[BuzzLOL]

.. I think there is a company that sells crate engines with stock truck peanut port heads, bumped up compression ratio pistons and cam, and rated a surprising 400 HP... I think even peanut ports are big compared to SBC ports...

[BuzzLOL]

.. Here's the article on Demon 400HP peanut oval port heads 454" engines:

Cheap Big-Block Chevy Engine Build - Car Craft Magazine

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by BuzzLOL

.. Here's the article on Demon 400HP peanut oval port heads 454" engines:

Cheap Big-Block Chevy Engine Build - Car Craft Magazine

Forget horsepower, look at that torque curve!!!!

[BuzzLOL]

.. LOL! Makes 1990 Chevy SS454 pickup's "255HP" look pathetic, doesn't it...