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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2011, 08:52 PM
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Got ya F-Bird, I'll take pics and measurements and get back to you when I get to 10 to 12 mech, it might take a couple days. Take care thanks
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2011, 06:05 PM
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F-Bird, I decided to try the oblong bushing today, after 4hrs of making the bushing and checking the advance I discovered the slot in the plate is not oblong. The supposable oblong hole is stamped into the plate on the inside circumference leaving the hole open on the inside dia. then the plate is welded to the shaft making the center of the slot on the inside convex in the center of the length, now my oblong bushing wants to rock on the convex and bind. I made my bushing the same OD as the 18 degree bushing which gives it a couple thousands clearance on each side and the length .460 just around .010 under the length of the slot. As I worked my way down .010 at a time it started to bind at.420 that's when I discovered the slot problem. The ideal would work if it was a true oblong hole. Kinda hard to explain. Tomorrow is another day I'll start welding on the tails.
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:19 PM
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Why not just heat up the tail of the weight and bend it inward towards the stop?



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Old 07-27-2011, 04:29 AM
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Thats a good thought, but look at what I found last night. Check this site! http://www.4secondsflat.com/MSD%20Di...r%20Tuning.htm
I'm going to call them.
F-Bird--- What do you think?

Last edited by 41pu; 07-27-2011 at 04:45 AM.
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:58 AM
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nevermind. Found the info. Expensive tho.



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Last edited by Greg T; 07-27-2011 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 07-27-2011, 05:59 PM
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I ordered the bushings today, your right they are expensive but trying to make that oblong bushing work was a pain. The name of the company is FBO, the guy I talked with was Don Gould, very knowledgeable and after checking around the different forums today he is very well know. Hes one of the main distributors of Racer Brown products whose company is here in Baltimore. He said they've been making these bushings for 10 years. I can't believe someone on this forum didn't know about them. You Chrysler guys should check this site out, there mostly Mopar. http://www.4secondsflat.com/index.html
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2011, 07:32 PM
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I agree on the expensive part but after bending over those big old wide fenders for two or three hours its worth it.

Last edited by 41pu; 07-28-2011 at 07:38 PM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-28-2011, 10:30 PM
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you have hard working there, th
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2011, 05:00 AM
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I just ordered a set of bushings from Don yesterday

Yes, they're expensive for what they are, but if they work as advertised, I'd say it's money well spent

That being said, for those using these bushings on MSD distributors, what springs are you using?

Don suggests going with heavier springs, but doesn't specify exactly which ones

I want it to come in under 2800 RPM's and I'd like to get it set in the ballpark on the first shot if possible as the distributor is buried under a recessed cowl in my coupe
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:28 PM
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F-Bird, Finally got back to setting up this distributor, this is what I ended up with. Here we go.

24 degrees initial in park with vac plugged, 650RPM

34 degrees in park with vac hooked up, 900RPM

36 degrees total coming in at 1600 RPM with MSD blue springs {med}

46 degrees total, advancing to there by 1600 RPM with vac hooked up

Made your vac limiter and adjusted to give 10 degrees

Whata think?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2011, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 41pu
F-Bird, Finally got back to setting up this distributor, this is what I ended up with. Here we go.

24 degrees initial in park with vac plugged, 650RPM

34 degrees in park with vac hooked up, 900RPM

36 degrees total coming in at 1600 RPM with MSD blue springs {med}

46 degrees total, advancing to there by 1600 RPM with vac hooked up

Made your vac limiter and adjusted to give 10 degrees

Whata think?
Better question is what do YOU think? You got the new curve in and you already had the old one- so you ought to know if it's better or not, I would think.

In any event if it's not hard to start hot or pinging when you mat the throttle from an idle or surging at light throttle cruise or pinging anywhere, you're golden.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:58 PM
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I can't tell any difference in the seat of my pants, it also starts fine when hot.
My old curve
{using manifold vac}
930 RPM at idle with vac 36*
initial without vac {plugged} idle dropped 630 -19* initial
Total all in at 2300 RPMS 36* without vac {plugged}
Total all in at 2300 RPMS 54* with vac hooked up
This shows 17* mech, I have the 18* stop {black one} in, but there is probably a + or - degree error flying around

I was hoping to feel some more power.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2011, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 41pu
I was hoping to feel some more power.
Well, look at it as a learning experience!

You'd never have known if it would help w/o trying, so it's not a total waste of time, right? Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:22 PM
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Truer words were never spoken! Gotta do a plug reading yet to see if I can keep it there, it's got Flowmasters on it so I can't tell if its pinging.[IMG]IMG[/IMG]
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-18-2011, 07:41 PM
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Hell of a truck! Neat building, too.

But get a handle on any detonation by whatever means possible. That's a sure engine killer, as I'm sure you know.

What's the story on the truck- chassis, bodywork, etc.?
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