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Old 12-01-2002, 06:14 PM
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Post How much to machine a crank?

How much would it cost to get a crank welded and machined???? It has 3 raped journals... looks like the engine wasn't primed the first time it was run after a rebuild

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Old 12-01-2002, 06:19 PM
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You would be better off finding a good used core but usually the welding can be done with a proper submerged arc on a crankshaft welding machine for $40 a journal. It ain't cheap but that's how they do big cranks and it works. Don't let Ed the local stick welder attempt this one. The cranks must be preheated so if they don't do it then don't send it there.
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Old 12-01-2002, 06:20 PM
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I am going to be taking it to an engine rebuilding shop.. 4 jaw can you read my other posts that I made and give me your opinion?
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Old 12-01-2002, 06:45 PM
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What kind of power are you going for Dave?
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Old 12-01-2002, 06:58 PM
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4 jaw you know "Ed the local stick welder" too??
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Old 12-01-2002, 08:11 PM
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we get $40.00 per journal to weld, $45.00 for thrust surfaces, $75.00 to grind. you can find a good grindable core for less than $50.00
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Old 12-01-2002, 08:40 PM
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I am wanting to put a fair bit of power to it... that is why I don't want to just machine it down and use over sized bearings... the block is looking like it is in better shape... as far as I know it is the stock bore and the engine looks from the damage that when it had a rebuild done to it they didn't prime it...

so if it is that much for the machine work wouldn't I be better off getting a new one?

[ December 01, 2002: Message edited by: stonedchihuahua ]</p>
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Old 12-01-2002, 08:52 PM
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Find a good used core...that has been magnafluxed!
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Old 12-02-2002, 03:00 AM
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I would suggest going for a NEW steel crank. Make all the power you want and start anew. I punched my 400 to 406 and added a steel crank and flat top hyper/whatever pistons and used the stock rods. Make the Top end breath. Have a shop install 2.02 valves in your head, probably a 1.94 now. HP cost $$$$$ and listen to the shop about changes to the engine. I don't use a high volume oil pump without an oversized oil pan. You WILL drain a stock pan dry with anything but a stock oil pump, and a stock oil pump is probably all you need anyway. You will have some cash in this engine anyway you look at it. Do it the right way and listen to the engine shop as to how to build it.

Todd
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Old 12-02-2002, 06:35 AM
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I am going to have to dissagree a bit with the steel crank thing. Tm454, you said run stock rods and a good crank. The stock rods IMO should be the first to go if you are upgrading. Most engine failures are in the rods and specifically the rod bolts.

If it were me, I would go for a new cast crank from Scat. They sell for less than $200 on ebay. Then get a good set of 5140 rods for about the same price. That way you dont have to pay for anything other than balancing. New parts are getting so cheap it is hard to justify referbishing old ones.

If you do keep the stock rods, be sure to at least buy new qaulity rod bolts like ARP.

Chris
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Old 12-02-2002, 11:35 AM
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I agree with turbo on this one, a steel crank will do you no good with stock rods. Stock rods are the weak link even with a cast crank.
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Old 12-02-2002, 12:30 PM
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What I was thinking is finding out how much the stock rods can hold and then if they are weak get new ones otherwise build the engine to have a max hp of a little less than what the rods can handle.
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Old 12-02-2002, 01:52 PM
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I'm with turbo, or keep it under 5500 and she'll last just fine. A rev limiter is always handy.
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Old 12-02-2002, 01:57 PM
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Yeah I think I need a rev limiter... on my 305 the tach only went to 7000 I am pretty sure I had it reved to 9000 a few times (I think the valves were hitting the pistons) TICK TIcK TICK oh boooyy better slow it down!
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