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Old 02-10-2007, 08:33 PM
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how much paint

I would like to know how much paint I will need to do a complete 52 Chev 2dr sedan in base clear (solid color). Would like to make sure I have some left to cover any mistakes. thanks.
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:35 PM
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Don't know on the paint, just wanted to comment on the chevy looks like it's coming along nicely I give it a BIG Brian
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Old 02-11-2007, 04:01 AM
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You'll want 3 Quarts of base and 1 gallon of clear coat.
Onless the base color is "low hiding" you should have enough to do a "complete" including the insides of the doors.
If the base color is low hiding you may need an extra quart.
Dupont Chromabase is famous for being low hiding.
RM Diamont and Sikkens Autobase cover much better.

You realize that you can paint your car in a 1 stage Acrylic Urethane 2K solid color. It is exactly the same as the clear coat in a Base/clear paint job. It looks just as rich and deep as a base clear job. it is faster and costs less. (no base coat/base maker solvent to buy). Typically only requires 2 full coats. 1 US gallon is enough for most cars. Most 2K 1 stage uethane paints use the same hardners and reducers as the Clear coats do.
Its the same paint with pigment in it.
if you're going black or red or white it will be nicer overall in 1 stage paint.
Some examples are Dupont Imron, Sikkens Autocryl II
Sico Acrythane, Nason 2K Glasurit 22 Line.

Sand and polish just like Urethane Clear Coat. Just as pretty, just as durable if not more so.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-11-2007 at 04:10 AM.
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:14 AM
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Nice project! What line of paint will you be using and what color?
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Old 02-11-2007, 09:02 AM
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good information I too am wondering the same thing.
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Old 02-11-2007, 09:53 AM
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Thanks for the comments.
F-Bird88, I have been going back and forth about the single stage option and just may do that. Would a gallon be enough?? I was also thinking of painting it in parts so to speak. I have the body minus the doors, front fenders hood and truck lid on the rotisseriere and would like to paint it before taking it off. I fitted the doors and did the body work on them while they were on the body and then took them off. I thought it would be nice to paint the remaining parts off the car and then assemble them. Was concerned though about having the different panels match doing it that way. It may not be that much of a problem using solid color. I am using Omni MP170 epoxy primer and Omni MP182 hi build primer. Right now I am at the stage of going to apply final touch up with the epoxy and then apply the hi build.
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:39 AM
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That's the way we painted our 54 ford, and color match wasn't a problem . i asked my father-in-law about that and he said"measure the mix exactly every time you are going to spray and take your time and try to lay down the same number of coats" I am no painter but I stayed at a holiday Inn last night.LOL I have been around it long enough to understand most of the in's and out's. "A man's gotta know his limitaions" Thank you Clint Eastwood. Brian
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:54 AM
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If you're doing a singlstage complete, including the jambs, underhood, firewall, underdecklid, desh, etc... I would definately order up two gallons of color-especially if you want some left over and need enough cushion for repairing mistakes. Same with BC/CC. Again, what color? What paint line?
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Old 02-11-2007, 12:32 PM
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thanks baddbob, the color is going to be close to the original light blue. I took the trunk lid into the paint supplier and they scanned it (the original paint on the inside of the lid) with their camera "thingy" and gave me a paint code for PPG paint. Is there a quality line that you would recommend? Except for the wheels the car will be original on the outside (restorod) and I am not partial to putting a non original color on it.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:22 PM
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Wait a minute. You took the old faded, wethered origional paint sample ( trunk lid) in to scan to create are best possible match formula using the PPG "Profit" (Color Spectrum Analyser) Y not just research the origional OEM factory color code and look up the PPG paint mix formula.
The old paint will have faded, lightened and dulled a good bit.
You're not going to get the rich origional finish, you're going to get a shiny version of the old faded finish. Most the paint companies have the old factory OEM paint formulas on Archive. They can get it for ya.
PPG is fine paint. I'm more familiar with the PPG B/C system Deltron, than the 1 stage. If thats your favoriate brand, go with the B/C.

if you were going to paint it a generic common color like Black, super white or some shade of Red I would recomend using Sico Acrythane. It's very good Acrylic Polyurethane 2K paint. At about $$1/2 the cost$$ and all the quality. Its made in Canada too. Don't know if it is distributed on the West Coast. Many many cool solids and Metalics. Easy to work with. Nice stuff.
May have a blue that is close to what you want.
if you want to recreate the factory OEM paint. the i recomend PPG. I recomend Sikkens Autocryl 1 stage.
i recommend Glazuirt. If youre going to paint inside the dorrs etc before hand just decide what color, decide what brand and paint line, and get a Quart. then when you're ready to spray the outside get 3 more quarts. You will have a bit left over to save for touch up. 3 years down the road it won't matter any wether ya bought 3 quarts or 4 or .....
You need to research the OEM paint code.
There are a few 1 stage paints I would avoid.
Sherman Williams Ultra 1 stage. (B/C system is fine)
RM Solo 1 stage. Never had much luck with either.
I'm a factory trained certified RM Paint Refinisher. Used many other brands over the years.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:30 PM
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I would remove the body shell from the Rotissery then mount it on the frame. On the wheels with the suspension loaded. then final fit the doors etc. then remove and paint the door jams etc. Then reinstall and final sand the primer.
The body is flex able. More flexable than you think. i you fit and shim the doors etc on the shell while it is hung on the rotissery it will surly not fit right once on the frame mounts.
Gravity..... You'll be reshimming everything and probabily clip up the door jambs etc etc. How many times are you going to paint it.?
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:04 PM
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I would buy two gallons and expect 1-2 quarts left over for later repairs, that's assuming you're doing the firewall, jambs and all the other important surfaces. I'd also do the paint in two stages for the best results. Spray three coats of color, wetsand with 600 and shoot two more flow coats with just a tad bit more reducer. I've done quite a few single stage jobs like this over the years and they always turn out better. If you're staying with PPG's products it's tough to beat Concept for durability. DAU is also good and easy to spray-but I heard it's almost phased out now. Global DG is also good but a little tougher to spray. Stay away from Omni MTK for durability reasons-JMO. Bob
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:40 PM
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thanks for all the advise guys, I did research the original color codes and found ditzler codes however no one around here could cross it over to theirs. I could order it from a US supplier however that is not practical. The original paint on the underside of the trunk lid looked good and unfaded so I thought it would be close enough. I am not trying to "restore" it just have it close to original. I will do some more looking.
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
I would buy two gallons and expect 1-2 quarts left over for later repairs, that's assuming you're doing the firewall, jambs and all the other important surfaces. I'd also do the paint in two stages for the best results. Spray three coats of color, wetsand with 600 and shoot two more flow coats with just a tad bit more reducer. I've done quite a few single stage jobs like this over the years and they always turn out better. If you're staying with PPG's products it's tough to beat Concept for durability. DAU is also good and easy to spray-but I heard it's almost phased out now. Global DG is also good but a little tougher to spray. Stay away from Omni MTK for durability reasons-JMO. Bob
if you have to paint it twice to good results whats the point.
1. ya have to watch how much paint ya wack on at once.
Urethanes, especially 1 stage only want and need a 2 coat application. Anything in exesse of that will result in next day dull back. Thats why you have to color sand and reapply. Too much film thickness at once. the paint skins over, trapping solvent, resulting in dull back finish.
only apply the recomended amount of coats. more is not better. Some paints like SillyWilly ultra 1 stage are very critical for this.
You/re essentually using the first go around as a expensive sealer. Why not just seal it first and paint it once?
If you're not an old hand at it B/C is probabily the better way to go. Both give great results. A 1 shot 1 stage solid color is just cheaper and faster. (requires proper technique thou) Don't bash on the clear coat either for the same reasons.
Most are a 2 coat deal. Do not over reduce to get flow. Select the right temp reducer and control the paint booth temp. Stick to the recomended tach time between coats. Don't want to trap solvent.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 02-11-2007 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 02-11-2007, 07:51 PM
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Ditzler is PPG.

RM has an extensive old OEM code and formula libary.
tey have best possible match formulas fot the old Laquer codes that you can mix in RM Diamont. B/C
Rm B/C is easy to owkr with. Im not as up on PPG but if you have a Ditzler formula you should be able toget a computer generated modern formula for the Urethane or B/? stuff.
Hey if you feel that your sample color was ok, go for it.
Are you painting in a controled environment (Down Draft)
or......? B/C is probabily the best choice if you'll be painting it in ....other....
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