I am preping my son's first car (75 Nova) for paint. The car has it's original paint that seems in good condition. It has been about 20 years since I've painted a car and I don't recall how much paint it takes to cover a car. I will be using a Sharpe HVLP spray gun. The original color of the car was a fairly sick maroon. The boy wants to paint it a dark blue with a white stripe. I thinking that we will want to paint the exterior, trunk underside and part of the dash. It sounds like paint "technology" has change a bunch in the last 20 years so any guidance on how much quanity for primer / base / clear coats would be appreciated.
My hobby is making people dislike me so since your new I will break you in right! (kidding I hope)
75 Chev? Are you sure its original paint or original color with a repaint.? That car was done with lacquer from factory and only reason I bring up if there is a real dull look or small chicken feet or crows feet in the paint even if you sand, it will show up in your new paint job and blue will show it real good. Its called crazing.
To test, take a rag with lacquer thinner and wipe a small spot, if the color shows up on rag its lacquer and if thats the case a very close inspection must be made of the paint before repaint. Unless you strip it.
Other than that a gallon of 2K primer, gallon of base and a gallon of clear should do the inside and out.
Edit:
2nd thought, if your not sure take it to a body shop for a paint estimate as thats the first thing they will check on that year car then you will know for sure. (if they say strip-ouch!)
Barry
Look at the dull top surface real close. Does it look like real fine strings or baby chicken feet? The dull look on lacquer is usually the start and most likely the result of crazing.
We know it is lacquer, that at this point must be going down hill fast because of dull look. (the cause)
Its your call but a body-shop would not paint this car unless it was stripped. (macco types will)
If you just sand and paint here is what can happen:
*The new paint can and will magnify any crazing that is present.
*There could be bubbles showing up in your new paint (the new paint will accelerate the bubbling process)
*Of course just plain loss of adhesion in spots.
If this makes any sense without going into a long explanation
the paint you have on the car will last longer like it is than if you put paint over it. (because the lacquer will soak up the fresh solvent at an uneven rate to try and rejuvenate itself - in short)
One dad to another, buy the kid a DA and a box of 80 grit for Xmas. I have a boy 29 and 25 and they will never let you live down a redo on the paint job!
That lacquer will come of easy since its factory paint. I was in a shop today in NC and they have a 67 & 68 Z28"s with factory lacquer that have never been painted, they said it took 3hours yesterday to get all the outside paint off the 67 and a 1/2 box of 80 grit paper.
Hey my boy and I used a combination of paint stripper and sanding to get all the exterior surfaces down to the metal this past weekend. My question is do we need to strip the laquer that is not crazing? The stuff in the door jams, under side of trunk, and on the lower half of the dash looks like it is in good shape.
There are sealers that can be sprayed over the old laquer, but my preference is to get in there with a wire wheel or small sanding disc and take it out- it will last bettter and give peace of mind knowing it is ALL gone- but I have had relatives who don't want to go that "extra step" and we used a sealer from MS/ NAPA (called Tech/Seal 5105 I think)- no bubbling or crazing and it's been a while...
man a kid with a DA sander is scary, thats where all these wavey cars come from. (most times it's not kids)
Mustangsaly
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