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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 07:46 AM
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It's really not a mess, and it is actually so much easier, faster, and CLEANER (I think) going wet. For one, just continually squeegee the sludge off. I've found that if I keep a constant source of water going while I"m wet sanding the surface stays much cleaner, my sandpaper barely loads, and I can get very far very fast. I have a spray bottle with soapy water in one hand while my other hand sands with the block. Sometimes you need to put the bottle down so you can block with two hands.

Even if you don't get all the sludge off, it dries into a very fine powder, and once it's dry it dusts off very easily with a dry paper towel. So much better than having sanding dust everywhere in your shop that you constantly have to blow off, sending it EVERYWHERE. I do try to sand outside when I can, but even wet sanding, when all of it goes onto the shop floor it's staying in a puddle which eventually dries into a powder and is still easy to clean.

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 08:33 AM
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Dayo5, Lizer has very eloquently explained why wet sanding is better than dry sanding...so X2 on what Lizer said. I will emphasize that wet sanding is cleaner and easier to to clean up than dry sanding. The finer you sand with dry paper, the more dust gets in the air...the more dust in the air...the more chance of getting that same dust in your next coat of whatever you apply on your vehicle, be it primer or paint. (are you getting a booth or painting the GTO where you are?). The other reason that I prefer wet sanding, especially with 500 or 600 grit is that the reflection is so much better for checking the straightness of the panels when wet.

Yes you can take the vehicle outside and give it an old fashioned hose down and blow it dry. When it drys, that wet sanding sludge will be visible and you can attend to it on spot at a time with water. As far as using W & G, yes. I will go through gallons on one job, I constantly use it ot check my panels for straightness because, as I mentioned, W & G is thinner than water and gives you a better reflection.

Will this be worth it? Let me think...YES...there is no doubt in my mind. When you come up with a beautiful paint job and you don't think it's worth all the effort, I'm sorry, your not a car guy. Just like a woman giving birth, all that pain, if they don't think all that pain was worth it, they aren't a Mother...IMO.

Ray
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 09:26 AM
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The other problem with dry sanding is it is ludicrously slow and your paper is completely loaded after only about 2 or 3 strokes. So then you have to stop, blow out your paper (and send dust everywhere), blow off the car (and send dust everywhere), not to mention you're wearing a mask this entire time too. I first started my car dry sanding and on May 2 I developed some horrible tendonitis in my right wrist that I am still paying the price for. To this day I still can't lift more than 5 or 10 pounds with that hand, so I've been largely doing my restoration this summer with one hand. I spray with my right hand, so holding a paint gun even with a half full hopper is very painful. Once I'm done with an area, I wipe it down with a dry rag and hit it with compressed air to dry.

A bonus when I'm wet sanding is I'm usually hot, and the water running down my arms and dripping onto my legs feels refreshing. I make a huge water mess when I wet sand and I don't care. It's as close to a pool at my place as I'll get.

I'll reemphasize one point again. Next day after you wet sand, you look at your panel, looks like it has a bunch of baby powder on it. Take a dry paper towel, just wipe it off, presto it's gone. It's really as easy as that.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 09:39 AM
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To this day I still can't lift more than 5 or 10 pounds with that hand, .
OMG, that must make it almost impossible to pee...LOL. Sorry bud, I couldn't resist.

Ray
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 12:48 PM
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OMG, that must make it almost impossible to pee...LOL. Sorry bud, I couldn't resist.

Ray
How did I not think of that. I'm going to have to remember that one. I'm sure you can guess the response I always get when I say my wrist has tendonitis.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 01:04 PM
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One of the best things I ever bought for wet sanding is a squeege. I don't remember the manufacturer of my particular one, but I think it was around $15-$20 and it saves a lot of time with clean up. It also makes it easier to see what you are doing when color sanding, you can squeege the area sanded and see any scratches or imperfectons that need attention.

Kelly
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:22 PM
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Such GREAT ADVICE!! Just got done wet sanding with the 600, so easy, fast, efficient, and the squee gee was perfect. Thanks for all of the great advice.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:47 PM
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Your more than welcome...did you check the car for straightness in the reflection? When are you planning on painting the car?

Glad to hear that it went quickly, now it gets exciting.

Ray
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:44 PM
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I just got done shooting the Color! Wow, that was fun and satisfying. Not half bad, if I do say so myself. When I was done and walking around the car I noticed some bits of dust that had fallen into the drying paint. How should I deal with that? Before I shoot the clear? Thanks so much, couldn't have gooten to this point without all of the help.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2013, 03:12 PM
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Glad to hear that things are going well. Dust nibs happen, no matter how long you've been painting, they will be there. If they are real small, you should be able to take them off with a tack rag...the bigger ones, get a piece of 600 wet paper and gently sand them out, dry off the area you sanded, tack it again and reapply base over that area until it's covered and the color looks the same as the rest of the car looks , allow the base to flash...give it a few hours if you have the time, tack the entire vehicle again with a tack rag in one hand and a blow gun in the other and apply your clear coat.

Your more than welcome and when your done, I want to see some pictures...LOL

Ray
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2013, 04:27 PM
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Thanks Ray! I will post a bunch of before and after pictures.
Do you have any tips for spraying the clear? Should I lay it down with the 50% overlap like the Base?
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:37 PM
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Also, I am using the SPI Universal Clear, what is the flash time on that? Or how long until it is dry? warm and dry here, using the "warm weather" mix.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2013, 04:39 PM
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I look forward to seeing the pictures.

50% overlap is what most painters do and what most manufacturer's recommend. But, every painter is different in how they lay down paint. Myself, I go about 75% overlap but, I move faster than most painters...that works for me. If this is your first time, try 50% on your first coat, that's always a good starting point. Concentrate more on getting nice even, medium wet coats over the entire vehicle and all will end up well. Don't be in a hurry on applying your clear coat, allow proper flash times, about 15 minutes between coats, feel the masking paper where you have over spray, when the over spray is getting tacky and stringy, it's time for another coat. If your planning on color sanding and buffing the car, apply at least three coats over he vehicle...depending on the job....(and the budget of my customer)...I have put up to 5 coats of clear on a vehicle...in your case that wouldn't be necessary, but a minimum of 3 if your planning on color sanding and polishing.

Best of luck my friend, make it shiny.

Ray
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:43 PM
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Also, I am using the SPI Universal Clear, what is the flash time on that? Or how long until it is dry? warm and dry here, using the "warm weather" mix.
As I said, about 15 minutes between coats, that is the rule of thumb. Check your masking paper for stringy tacky clear, that is your best indicator. The SPI Universal Clear is an excellent product, it lays down exceptionally well...I'm glad to hear that this was your product of choice.

Ray
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:48 PM
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As far as dry times go, in warm weather, it will be well on the way to getting cured by tomorrow. That's not fully cured but, you will be able to touch it and hopefully drool close to it, (never drool on a car...LOL). It will take some time for it to be fully cured.

I just reread the SPI manual, it says wait 30 minutes between coat...this is a great guide line...but, as I mentioned, check your masking paper.

Ray
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