How much paint do I buy? - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 08:02 PM
Dayo5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Hi,
There sure is a big price swing in Paint between retailers, Eastwood and TCP sell Base and clear kits for under $200, and the Dupont is $400 a gallon. Is this one of those times where you get what you pay for?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #47 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 09:31 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
I was just PMing another member about a similar question. For the most part...Yes, this very well could be "you get what you pay for". Some people will say that they've used Eastwood and never had a problem. This might be true. If your car is going the metallic blue that you have in your picture, metallic control could be an issue with anything other than a brand name product...another issue is coverage. If you purchase a cheaper product and it takes twice as much paint to cover the primer....what have you saved? I believe in brand name base coats, SPI primers and clears. To me SPI is a quality product with an affordable price. Brand Name base coats are a quality product and the quality is reflected in the price, especially if your painting something that has a high quantity of metallic's. That's where the price doesn't matter if the less expensive paint is all stripey and motley and has poor coverage. I'm not saying that any of the brands will do what I mentioned less expensive paints will do, I'm saying your chance of that happening with a Brand Name base coat is much less. I refuse to use anything but high quality material for my customers...there is a reason for that. I've seen results of using bargain materials, many times.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #48 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 09:39 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
I just saw the picture of your GTO in Primer, it look s great.....It's a beautiful car, what does it deserve? I mean that by the way, I love Pontiac's, especially GTO's and Firebird's and have been an owner of many.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #49 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 05:42 PM
Dayo5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Hi Ray,
I started working with the filler today- that's very satisfying!
After all the filler work and sanding are done, and I go to shoot the next coat of primer, do I use the epoxy primer again? I have plenty left over. Or do I need to change to a different kind of primer?
Thanks as always
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #50 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2013, 07:07 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
I checked back and you are using SPI Epoxy primer...yes you can use SPI over top of your filler/body work. SPI has both good build and sanding qualities so you can use it as a building primer as well. Allow the Epoxy to cure before blocking...about 2 days. Remember, when you block filler or primer you should have minimal to no pressure on the block...let the paper do the work and when you do this with guide coat...your panel will become straight...always keep your paper sharp as well...I save some old paper for those places that you need to get at by hand like corners, curved surfaces like on the rear quarter where the bumper goes etc.

You could use 2K primer over top of epoxy, if you go past the window of re-coating without sanding, you would need to sand the epoxy for mechanical adhesion with both Epoxy Primer and 2K primer. Seeing you mentioned you had quite a bit of Epoxy left, there's nothing wrong with using Epoxy, even for finish blocking.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #51 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 08:22 AM
Dayo5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Hi Ray, Happy Easter, if your family enjoys that holiday,
I have been reading a lot online about how the endura bumper is really challenging to work with. My bumper is in really good shape, but it does have a handful of tiny cracks. What should I use to fill those, a glaze product, probably not the same body filler I am using on the rest of the car?
Thanks,
Day
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #52 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 10:19 AM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayo5 View Post
Hi Ray, Happy Easter, if your family enjoys that holiday,
I have been reading a lot online about how the endura bumper is really challenging to work with. My bumper is in really good shape, but it does have a handful of tiny cracks. What should I use to fill those, a glaze product, probably not the same body filler I am using on the rest of the car?
Thanks,
Day
Glaze products and regular body filler won't work on cracks on an endura bumper and your right, it is challenging especially if you don't follow the correct steps and use the right products.

First, clean the bumper with water born wax and grease remover not the wax and grease remover that you are going to wipe the car down with before you paint. It can get into those small cracks and the solvents won't evaporate quickly plus if you have a wax build up on the bumper, the wax and grease remover will take it off and you won't grind it into the endura bumper when you strip it. After you've cleaned the bumper, blow it completely dry with an air blower, make sure your compressor is free of any oils or other contaminants that might come out of the air line.

The bumper needs to be stripped, use 180 grit on a DA...just take off the paint and OEM primer down to the raw endura bumper. One of the reasons the paint needs to come off is that you might find more cracks under the paint, and #2 especially if it's not the original paint.

After the paint is removed, repair the cracks with a two part plastic repair for the bad spots, like Duramix 4036, 4040, 4030, Sem, 3M or other like products. Fill all the cracks with one of these plastic repair products...make sure you get right into the cracks...don't just skim over them with the repair product, if you do you will have air pockets under the repair and in time with temperature changes it could cause bubbles or blisters to appear on the freshly painted bumper.

Once you have the cracks repaired, let it set up for 48 hours to ensure that the plastic repair product has cured. Use a block and 180 grit paper to smooth out the repaired areas, clean the bumper again with water born wax and grease remover and blow dry.

Apply a coat of "flexible Epoxy primer", let it flash for at least 30 minutes and not more than 3 to 4 hours...then apply 2 or 3 more coats of flexible Epoxy primer...let it cure for 24 to 48 hours and block sand smooth with 180 grit. Now if you have any more imperfections you can apply polyester putty right over top of the epoxy primer...again if you do apply a polyester putty to fill any imperfections, make sure that the polyester putty doesn't get in contact with any raw endura bumper surface, block the putty with 180 grit paper until smooth and straight. Apply 2 more coats of flexible Epoxy primer allow it to cure for about 48 hours.

Now you can finish block sanding with 400 dry or 600 wet paper, apply your base coat and it is also a good idea to add flex agent into your clear coat for the endura bumper.

Simple right...NOT...it's a lot of work but applying polyester fillers over top of the endura product will eventually cause failure. This method will minimize failures of this nature and Thank You to Barry K for outlining this procedure in several of his posts late last year.

Hope this helps.

Ray

Last edited by 69 widetrack; 03-31-2013 at 10:24 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #53 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 10:20 AM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
Oh, and a Happy Easter to you and yours as well...sorry my friend.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #54 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 11:40 AM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
One other thing I should mention...just as on a bumper cover or even when your stick welding heavy metal, the cracks in the Endura bumper should be opened up or V'ed with a die grinder or cut off wheel...something to expose the crack so that it more readily accepts the plastic repair. This will make it easier to fill the crack instead of just skimming the plastic repair over the crack.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #55 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2013, 08:57 PM
Dayo5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Hi, I have been thinking a lot about doing two racing stripes down the center of the body, hood, roof, trunk. I would appreciate any advice at laying racing stripes.
Also when looking at colors, if I do red stripes and the rest is black, should they both be of the same composition, ie, both metalic, or Pearl of the same type?
thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #56 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2013, 09:14 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
The simple answer is don't put racing stripes on your car. It's my opinion but to me a GTO doesn't have the hood for stripes on it...the air scopes get in the way and that's all years, not just yours. If you wanted to put stripes down the side, almost anything other than the stripes that they used on the Judge would appear to be Gaudy...to me anyway.

If you like the stripes that the Judge had, you can buy decal kits. If you want to paint them on, let me know and I can help you out.

It doesn't matter if your car is metallic and your stripes are solid, the other way around or both solid or both metallic. What matters is that the colors go well together and that the stripe suits the car.

Again, just my opinion.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #57 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 12:58 PM
Dayo5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Hi Ray , your opinion helps a lot. And I completely understand where you are coming from.
If you wouldn't mind sharing the process with me, I always like to learn, maybe it'll be for the next car. Is there a special kind of tape for that? Also, in general, what kind of tape do you use?
Thanks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #58 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 01:26 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
The tape I use for striping and or graphics is 3M fine line tape, there are other manufacturer's that make a similar tape but, I find that 3M has been a consistently good tape for this type of application. The only time I ever had trouble was when I bought some old stock...it didn't stick well at all...my bad...not 3M. It comes in different widths and quality...I prefer the blue fine line.

When I do striping of any kind I always start off with the complete stripe in my mind...I know how it's going to look before I put it on. When I've decided on the stripe, I apply whatever color I chose for the stripe and apply that color on the car first. Spray approximately where the stripe will be, don't worry about getting to much of an area painted where the strip will end up, it's more important to have more of the stripe color than you need than not enough.

After I have coverage of the color and the base coat has flashed, I start laying down the outer edge of the stripe with fine line tape...I outline the entire stripe with fine line tape....measure to make sure that both sides are the same and then start masking in the inside of the stripe or, in other words, where you want the stripe to be, should be all masked up. Take your time...measure, measure and when your all done...measure again (I remember the first time I did SS stripes on a Chevelle, I used 1/16 inch fine line tape for the outer edge...I was out, 1/16 of an inch...nobody really noticed but, after it was done, I did). Now you have the stripe masked up, walk around the car, look at it to make sure that this is exactly what you want.

When you are sure that this is what you want, take the color that is going to be the main body color and apply it the way you would normally apply base coat...all the while, check your tape, make sure that there aren't any edges that are lifting...if there are edges lifting, fix it now before you continue basing the car and absolutely check it very closely before you clear the car. Once you have the car's body color applied and have made sure that the paint has covered, allow the base coat to flash and remove the masking paper and fine line tape. Check it again, make sure this is what you want...if it is clear the car.

When I stripe a car, do air brush work or graphics, I give the car a minimum of 4 coats of clear. The reason I give it 4 coats of clear is that when you have two colors (or more) on the same surface, you will have a paint edge or paint line. With 4 coats of clear there is enough material there that I can wet sand the car, remove the line and buff (polish) the car and you can't feel the paint line.

I hope this explains how to stripe a car, again, if you need further explanation just ask and I'll give you whatever further explanation you need.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #59 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 01:27 PM
Dayo5's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 70
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
Is there a difference between PPG Deltron 2000, and Deltron DB?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #60 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2013, 02:00 PM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 59
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
Deltron 2000 is the only Deltron Base Coat system I am aware of. DBC stands for "Deltron Base Coat"...DMD is the prefix to the toner number such as DMD 1690 if I am correct would be a silver and DBC 500 is the mid coat clear for tri-coats (It's been over three since we've had Deltron Base Coat in Canada and I'm going by memory). I don't know of any PPG automotive solvent based base coat paint system other than Deltron and Global. If your looking for Deltron Base Coat, it would be Deltron DBC 2000.

I hope this answers your question.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
where to buy paint supply's rumpity_z28 Hotrodding Basics 3 10-28-2011 09:26 PM
PAINT BOOTH... should I buy one? Augusto Body - Exterior 15 07-21-2010 11:24 AM
where can i buy touch up paint? sc2dave Body - Exterior 3 06-04-2005 05:24 PM
Where to buy paint? (paintscratch.com?) toykilla Body - Exterior 1 04-25-2005 01:18 PM
racecar paint (S/S), where to buy? tallpaul Body - Exterior 16 03-06-2005 09:09 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.