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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2013, 03:01 PM
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Go right to color...make sure you haven't got any bare metal spots, if you do, spot prime, lightly sand and paint.

Ray
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:53 PM
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Hi Everyone,
I 've got my final Primer on the car now, I am getting close to color, woo hoo! What grit do I block this final primer with before going to color?
Thanks!!!
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:02 PM
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Minimum grit for solvent base coat is 400 dry or 600 wet...I prefer 600 wet...it does a nicer job and leaves a better foot print for painting.

Ray
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:32 AM
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Thanks Ray---you are the best as always!!!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:33 AM
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Should I use the hand sized block, or the 17inch long straight board, or the combination?
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:49 PM
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For dry finish sanding the 17 inch board is great....hard to get 17 inch long wet paper...a short block and wet paper works well and I use both for finish sanding along with guide coat....the coarsest paper you want to use is 400 dry...this grit is the minimum requirement for most solvent born base coats...as I mentioned earlier, 600 wet does leave a cleaner footprint so what I do is use 400 dry on the long board and then go over the car with 600 wet on a short block. It takes less time than you might think to go over the car from 400 dry to 600 wet and then you have the assurance that the car is prepped and clean before painting without any chance of sand scratches showing up.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:03 PM
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Hi Ray,
after blocking i have foind some spots that i want to put some spot filler , or should i try a glaze product? Then sand back an re-prime, right?
thanks as always
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:09 PM
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I'm not Ray, but if you want an answer, put a poly filler over it, if it's just a very shallow spot, a glaze would be fine, but glazes don't fill much; they're pretty runny (at least the Evercoat ez sand I use). I like glazes for filling scratches and pinholes. Otherwise a poly filler like Rage or Marson Platinum would work just fine too...not sure what you've used up to this point. Sand down to 220-320 and prime over it.

The biggest mistake you can make in trying to fill your low spot is to try and ONLY fill the low spot. Start your swipe BEFORE the low spot. Then, before the filler sets up too hard, hit it with 80 grit to knock it down fast, then finish up with 220 grit. Some might tell you to start with 40 grit. I do for large areas, but not a small spot, especially if I don't want to take the filler down too fast but that's me knowing my limits. Some also might say to do another step between 80 and 220, but if the filler is still chalky the 220 will still cut it pretty fast too and will cut down past the 80 grit scratches fast enough.

Sometimes it's difficult to tell if the filler is set up enough. If it clumps up in the sand paper then let it go just a little longer. When it's just right, it will sand off in a really soft, thick powder. When it's completely set up, it sands off in a finer, 'dryer' powder that's harder to sand. Sanding it before it completely kicks will allow for you to cut it fast and get it just right, otherwise it's difficult to blend in a little spot patch like that if it's completely set up. You have to sand it a lot, and then after doing that you've sanded off a lot of the primer in surrounding areas, and then you've ended up sanding that too low.

Last edited by Lizer; 07-19-2013 at 05:17 PM.
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2013, 09:44 PM
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Sorry it took so long to get back to you...I had internet problems all day and just got it up and running again.

First rule, never use a filler over top of a 2K primer...(Cured Epoxy sanded with 120 grit or 180 grit is fine)...over top of 2K primer you can rough up the area with 120 grit or 180 grit and fill with a 2 part putty and back sand as Lizer suggested. Putties are finer and have a much better adhesion quality to cured 2K primers than the regular body fillers. If a regular body filler is applied on top of 2K primers and reprimed there is a good chance of ringing or tracing can occur after the car is painted...(sometimes 6 months to a year after the car is painted....sometimes I've seen people get away with it but to be on the safer side, a part putty will minimize the chance of this happening).

Again, sorry it took so long to get back to you and I hope this helps.

Ray
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2013, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Sorry it took so long to get back to you...I had internet problems all day and just got it up and running again.

First rule, never use a filler over top of a 2K primer...(Cured Epoxy sanded with 120 grit or 180 grit is fine)...

Ray
Good to point out. I saw 'final primer' above and automatically thought epoxy.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:27 AM
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Such great infomation as always!
I still have the tape on the car from when I sprayed the polyester primer surfacer. I was thinking I would leave it on while I did my 600 grit wet sanding to prep for color, but now there will be some other steps, do I need to remove this tape and re-tape now? Or, if not, can I leave the current tape on as I head into color etc.? I did an awesome job taping and I am remisss to remove it if I dont have to. THANKS
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:48 AM
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I can understand your logic of leaving the tape and masking paper on the vehicle while your sanding. It will keep the sanding dust from getting to the inside of the vehicle and less chance of getting dust in your new paint....BUT...I always try and remove the tape and paper as soon after priming or painting as possible. The reason is, if you don't the primer or paint will cure and when you do go to take it off, there is more of a possibility of it taking the paint or primer off the vehicle as well. Primer and paint will "bridge" from the vehicle and what you have masked off and could cause this to happen. Now, when you take the old tape off, have a razor blade handy...you may need to actually cut some of the primer off at the boarder of the vehicle and the tape.

Also, when you pull the tape off, pull it away from the area that you want the primer on the vehicle. For example, if your removing the tape from a door, where the door skin meets the window, pull the tape up, towards the window area, not down towards the door skin....and yes, I always remask for paint....much dust or dirt in paint comes from whats on the masking paper and whats underneath the paper. That's why I spend a great deal of time ensuring I have a tight mask, so that when I paint, the air pressure from the paint gun doesn't make the masking paper flip and flop around, dislodging dust underneath the paper.

Hope this helps my friend.

Ray
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2013, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayo5 View Post
Such great infomation as always!
I still have the tape on the car from when I sprayed the polyester primer surfacer. I was thinking I would leave it on while I did my 600 grit wet sanding to prep for color, but now there will be some other steps, do I need to remove this tape and re-tape now? Or, if not, can I leave the current tape on as I head into color etc.? I did an awesome job taping and I am remisss to remove it if I dont have to. THANKS
you're not wet sanding the polyester primer are you?
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 07-20-2013, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
you're not wet sanding the polyester primer are you?
I'm not sure if I understand what the problem is with wet sanding 2K primer? A lacquer primer or anything uncatalyzed I could see potential problems but am I missing something here?

Ray
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I'm not sure if I understand what the problem is with wet sanding 2K primer? A lacquer primer or anything uncatalyzed I could see potential problems but am I missing something here?

Ray
poly primer. Not a urethane 2k primer. poly primer as in a sprayable poly body filler products like Slick Sand.

He something about when he sprayed the polyester primer surfacer. I don't know if he went over this with a 2k then wet sanded or if he wet sanded the poly primer directly.
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