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Old 10-18-2004, 11:16 PM
ecrusch1987's Avatar
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How much power does motor have

The engine is a 318 small block (dodge). Rebuilt, blueprinted, and balanced.

Cam
Adv. Duration: .292/292
Dur. @ .050'': 248/248
Lift: .508''/.508''
Centerline: 108
Basic RPM: 2800-6200 RPM

Heads
177cc intake
60 combustion
2.02" intake and 1.60 exhaust valves

Intake
Edelbrock performer
Edelbrock performer 750 cfm (manual choke)

Exhaust
Dynomax standard series
6 inches of piping after headers
no muffler or anything else

The motor runs on 93 octane and doesn't smoke or leak anything i am estimating at least 400 hp and above 500 ft/lbs of torque (if going 20 and in third gear i can lay on it and the tires start somking...)

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Last edited by ecrusch1987; 10-19-2004 at 12:10 AM.
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Old 10-18-2004, 11:37 PM
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By using Desktop Dyno 2000, I computed out 314 hp at 6000 RPM and 308 ft-lbs at 5000 RPM, this being a very generous output. I plugged in 9.5:1 CR, heads that flowed at 200 cfm (which is what stock BB Dodge flow unmolested), a 750 cfm carburetor, a dual plane manifold, headers w/ open exhaust, and that gargantuan cam you specified, and that's what came out. If your heads are truly stock 318 heads and you have stock 318 Compression, I doubt you would get over 280 hp. If you are breaking your tires loose at 20 mph in 3rd gear, you better get some new ones ASAP or find out what is wrong with your traction. If you are serious about making power with the 318 you need some good heads, dome pistons, a 600 carburetor (750 is too big by far) and a way, way smaller cam. That cam would be pretty radical for a 360 never mind a little 318. Sometimes parts that seem mild are what your engine really needs, rather than something too big, especially with the 318.
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Old 10-18-2004, 11:50 PM
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they aren't stock heads or pistons, i redid my entire motor with new parts (except block) bought the heads from jegs... http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...35&prmenbr=361 . I have had the machine shop do all the work.... after reading about turbos10 i'm going to tear it down and clean it though, i'm not sure if they did and i just put out alot to have it done.... the big carb is the one i pulled off the motor to start, it was a 900 holley so i did do something right. the tires are brand new and are 12.5 inches wide, i have a dana 60 with a lightweight aluminium spool and 4.11 gears.
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Old 10-18-2004, 11:54 PM
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If you are able to get the flow numbers from the heads and the compression ratio you are running, I would be able to give you a more "accurate guess" of your HP output. I doubt it would differ significantly from what I already gave you, but if you have aftermarket heads it might improve a little. I'm glad to see some people are building the 318, it is a very overlooked motor. The 411 gears might explain why you are spinning the tires, that's pretty steep for the street. What car do you have this motor in?
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Old 10-18-2004, 11:59 PM
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http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...35&prmenbr=361 these are the heads i'm running.

My current compression is 11.5:1 running 93 octane

this is in my mix of a truck...started a 76 dodge d200 (3/4 ton) and put a 51 studebaker pickup body on it... it will run a 12.6 in the quarter right now and boost and nitrous are looking helpful.
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Old 10-19-2004, 12:02 AM
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Re: How much power does motor have

Quote:
Originally posted by ecrusch1987
The engine is a 318 small block (dodge). Rebuilt, blueprinted, and balanced.

Cam
Adv. Duration: .292/292
Dur. @ .050'': 248/248
Lift: .508''/.508''
Centerline: 108
Basic RPM: 2800-6200 RPM

Heads
177cc intake
60 combustion
2.02" intake and 1.06 exhaust valves

Intake
Edelbrock performer
Edelbrock performer 750 cfm (manual choke)

Exhaust
Dynomax standard series
6 inches of piping after headers
no muffler or anything else

The motor runs on 93 octane and doesn't smoke or leak anything i am estimating at least 400 hp and above 500 ft/lbs of torque (if going 20 and in third gear i can lay on it and the tires start somking...)
Not that I'm all too familiar with dodge components...but did you mistype the valve sizes? It just seems odd to me that the exhaust valve would be half the size of the intake valve.
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Old 10-19-2004, 12:06 AM
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good point, i did they are 1.60" exhaust valves
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Old 10-19-2004, 12:40 AM
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Hey, at least I know I'm not insane (at least not yet). You should edit the original post to make it correct...therefore avoiding confusion from others in the future.

What is the cam manufacturer and grind #?

What pistons are you using?

Last edited by Lonestar; 10-19-2004 at 12:40 AM.
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Old 10-19-2004, 01:56 PM
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How did you get 2.02 valves to work on the small bore 318 engine? I heard that too deep of a notch would have to be cut on the top of the cylinder bore for clearence.
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Old 10-19-2004, 03:19 PM
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so wait, a minute ago you said you hadn't even cleaned the block from the machine shop, and two posts later you're saying its running 12's?

Which is it dood?

K
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Old 10-19-2004, 09:46 PM
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Lonestar
As for the pistons, they are SRP chrysler flat top pistons: with 60cc combustion chamber they achieve 10.5:1 and the head had .009 taken off to boost it higher. My camshaft is a Mopar Performance "purple shaft". It can be bought at jegs (that is where i bought it.) the grind number, i'm not sure what that is here is the jegs page for it i'm not sure if it will be there or not. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...84&prmenbr=361

Onebadmerc
I'm not sure what the machine shop did to make them fit, they built the motor from the block. As far as i know they didn't have to but the might have, i'll ask them sometime this week when i help my friend pick up his B18A4 for his honda.

Killerformula
I had the machine shop assemble my motor, this included increasing the bore of the motor, this leaves shavings. Read about TurboS10, i've had two motors destroy the main bearings and never thought of why there would be debris there, and yes it was from the same shop both times and so is this motor. And yes it is running a 12.6 but i haven't come close to opening my motor up down the strip yet. I'm still breaking it in, it only has about 5 hours on it.

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Old 10-19-2004, 10:23 PM
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Am I correct in assuming that you are saying you spent all this money in your engine build...but you don't really know what you have?

12's and you haven't even "come close to opening my motor up down the strip yet."

Sorry if I sound skeptical...clue me in.

What car, weight, trap speed? What trans, rear end gear ratio?

Post some time slips also.

Quote:
Originally posted by Mad Maggot
If you are able to get the flow numbers from the heads and the compression ratio you are running, I would be able to give you a more "accurate guess" of your HP output. I doubt it would differ significantly from what I already gave you, but if you have aftermarket heads it might improve a little. I'm glad to see some people are building the 318, it is a very overlooked motor. The 411 gears might explain why you are spinning the tires, that's pretty steep for the street. What car do you have this motor in?
Higher gears (numerically) have a tendency to spin at first, but the rpm's catch up quick allowing you to hook up...even with an open rear.

Lower gears (numerically) have a tendency to spin when hooked to a powerful engine...takes time for the tires to catch up.

Last edited by Lonestar; 10-19-2004 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:23 PM
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I'm not sure exactly what some of the parts you are talking about are, my dad picked them out for me, well for the most part, i got to choose between the parts he would recomend. I can tell you aproximate horse power numbers now, i got it back from the dyno.

When i made my 3 runs down the strip.
the first one i shifted and stopped at 3500 rpms and that ran a 14.2. With the second i ran it up to 4000 rpms before i stopped that ran a 13.6. And with the third run my motor stalled shifting from 3rd to 4th (about 8 seconds into the run) and that was opening it up to the rev limiter at 8000 rpm shifting from gears. I have 5 gears to go through... the motor will rev to 8000 on command with the best throtle responce out of my chevy and ford, and by far with the most power.

The dyno showed that it was pushing 514.6 horsepower and 574.9 ft/lbs of torque.

1951 Studebaker (dodge frame and drive train)
it weighes 3256 lbs after i cut off alot of metal that didn't need to be there.

Trans i'll have to get back to you on, my dad did everything with it i didn't even get to choose on that.

Dana 60 rear end. 4.11 ratio with a Mark Williams light weight spool and hi torque axles.

When i go back to my grandparents house in a few weeks i'll get the slips, they live on the other side of wyoming.
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by ecrusch1987
I'm not sure exactly what some of the parts you are talking about are, my dad picked them out for me, well for the most part, i got to choose between the parts he would recomend. I can tell you aproximate horse power numbers now, i got it back from the dyno.

When i made my 3 runs down the strip.
the first one i shifted and stopped at 3500 rpms and that ran a 14.2. With the second i ran it up to 4000 rpms before i stopped that ran a 13.6. And with the third run my motor stalled shifting from 3rd to 4th (about 8 seconds into the run) and that was opening it up to the rev limiter at 8000 rpm shifting from gears. I have 5 gears to go through... the motor will rev to 8000 on command with the best throtle responce out of my chevy and ford, and by far with the most power.

The dyno showed that it was pushing 514.6 horsepower and 574.9 ft/lbs of torque.
Scan the slips in and post them for our review.
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:27 PM
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This setup is for racing only just by looking at the specs you provided. The duration not being seperate would kill alot of your low end right there as well as having the duration set so high.
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