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old fords 12-15-2009 01:11 AM

how much power will this motor make
 
I was wondering if anyone with desktop dyno or a program like that could tell me how much this combo will make
347 ford stroker
10.8-1 compression
rhs 215cc heads
.540 lift flat tappet cam
1.7 roller rockers
victor jr intake
780 holley dp
1 5/8 longtube headers
any help is appreciated

ericnova72 12-15-2009 02:14 AM

Lift is the least needed camshaft spec, we need duration @ .050 and lobe seperation angle to be able to input good data. Also need head flow #'s if you want results to be worth anything.

Holley never made a 780 DP, just 750 or 800 in the Double Pumper line, so what carb do you have?? 780's are Vacuum secondary with dual feed bowls.

old fords 12-15-2009 03:09 AM

here is a link to the cam
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL31-254-4/
I looked it up by the air horn numbers and it said 780. It has the chrome line so I figured it was a dp. Just figure a 750 holley double pumper

ericnova72 12-15-2009 05:21 AM

Link for cam went to a "Girly" cam(hydro). It won't get the job done.

It is going to take a solid flat tappet or solid roller to turn the rpm needed to run mid 6's in the 1/8th with only 347 cubes as you're going to need the potential for 7500 rpm shifts.

Solid flat tappet is the only way to fly if you can't budget a roller cam set-up.

How much are you willing to lighten the car??, that will make the most difference and allow you to not have to go so radical with the engine. 6.50's in the 1/8th = 10.20 in the 1/4, it isn't going to be stupid easy to go that quick with only 347 cubes. Don't happen to have a 351W around to stroke, do you?? It would make it easier with the car at stock weight.

cobalt327 12-15-2009 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old fords
here is a link to the cam
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL31-254-4/
I looked it up by the air horn numbers and it said 780. It has the chrome line so I figured it was a dp. Just figure a 750 holley double pumper

Likely a 780 cfm dual feed w/vacuum secondaries.

old fords 12-15-2009 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericnova72
Link for cam went to a "Girly" cam(hydro). It won't get the job done.

It is going to take a solid flat tappet or solid roller to turn the rpm needed to run mid 6's in the 1/8th with only 347 cubes as you're going to need the potential for 7500 rpm shifts.

Solid flat tappet is the only way to fly if you can't budget a roller cam set-up.

How much are you willing to lighten the car??, that will make the most difference and allow you to not have to go so radical with the engine. 6.50's in the 1/8th = 10.20 in the 1/4, it isn't going to be stupid easy to go that quick with only 347 cubes. Don't happen to have a 351W around to stroke, do you?? It would make it easier with the car at stock weight.

what cam would you reccomend

old fords 12-15-2009 02:53 PM

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CC...n/?prefilter=1
would that cam be better suited for the engine. I plan to keep it full weight. Probbaly 2900 with driver. If it runs high 6's or low 7's I am satisfied.

my87Z 12-15-2009 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old fords
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CC...n/?prefilter=1
would that cam be better suited for the engine. I plan to keep it full weight. Probbaly 2900 with driver. If it runs high 6's or low 7's I am satisfied.


since i remember that you were planning on running the RHS 215 head and they do flow very exceptional for any iron head. the cam you have picked here will make very good power high in the rpm band, i dont see much better than low 7's in the 1/8 or low 11's in the 1/4 without the use of some sort of forced induction/nitrous on the 347 but nothing is impossible, you will want to go with about a 4000+ stall and 4.10 or lower grears as well

ericnova72 12-15-2009 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old fords
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CC...n/?prefilter=1
would that cam be better suited for the engine. I plan to keep it full weight. Probbaly 2900 with driver. If it runs high 6's or low 7's I am satisfied.

That's a big step in the right direction, certainly better than hydro. If you really want to step on it, call Bullet Cams (what used to be Ultradyne) or Mike Jones Cams for a custom grind matched to your requirements. These guys are two of the best in the business. No off the shelf cam will be able to touch a grind from either of thise two companies. I never buy a shelf cam for any engine build for the power you are seeking, custom for the win!!
WWW.jonescams.com

If you want big power, you have to look outside the Summit or Jegs catalogs when it comes to the cam and the carb.

old fords 12-15-2009 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by my87Z
since i remember that you were planning on running the RHS 215 head and they do flow very exceptional for any iron head. the cam you have picked here will make very good power high in the rpm band, i dont see much better than low 7's in the 1/8 or low 11's in the 1/4 without the use of some sort of forced induction/nitrous on the 347 but nothing is impossible, you will want to go with about a 4000+ stall and 4.10 or lower grears as well

some guys over at the maverick board with similiar cars are going high 6's and low 7's. If it runs real low 7's I would be satisfied with it.

On a mechanical cam some people have told me you have to constantly adjust the valves and I was wondering if that was true

ericnova72 12-15-2009 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old fords
some guys over at the maverick board with similiar cars are going high 6's and low 7's. If it runs real low 7's I would be satisfied with it.

On a mechanical cam some people have told me you have to constantly adjust the valves and I was wondering if that was true

I run solids in several cars(self and friends) 3000-5000 miles a year with good pushrods and rocker arms and the correct springs. I adjust them twice a summer - once beginning of season, once or twice during the summer. Rarely ever find anything has moved, I'm basically just checking things over. If lash is moving, something is wearing that shouldn't be or the rocker polylocks aren't holding. The modern parts and materials, along with better precision parts and tighter lash that modern cams have, eliminates most all the adjustment that came with solid cams in the 1960's. Parts don't get beat up as hard with modern stuff and tight lash.

You will have to adjust and check them several times (3-4) in the first 500 miles until all the mating parts wear in and take a "set", then things will be quite stable. Do a solid and you will never want to mess with hydro's again on anything you want to run hard!! ;)


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