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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2010, 12:51 PM
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yes, installing someone's used converter is like installing someone's used condom.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2010, 12:56 PM
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this converter is kind of cheap and a good brand.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-GM30/
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:18 PM
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Stay away from used torque converers used rear gears and differentials and used girlfriends. Ya I'm talking about the 3500 stall.

Don't buy a cheap converter either. There is only one way to sell a cheap converter than that is to build it cheap.

Get a new B&M 10 " holeshot 3600. or some other brand name 3500 stall converter.

High stalls act much tamer in light weight vehicles. Don't wimp out on the stall.

Especially if you are going to drag it with good sticky tires and want to go fast.

Do not buy a 12" converter.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2010, 10:48 PM
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Thats about what I thought. I haven't got to test my truck out much yet, but I go to a local track that is only 500 feet long and the best 60ft time I can seem to get is about 2.17. It really doesn't want to lanch hard and it doesn't wake up untill it's about 1/4 down the track. do you think it could be the stock converter with my set up holding it back? I didn't expect it to fly, but I thought I would do better than that.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevydragster83
Thats about what I thought. I haven't got to test my truck out much yet, but I go to a local track that is only 500 feet long and the best 60ft time I can seem to get is about 2.17. It really doesn't want to lanch hard and it doesn't wake up untill it's about 1/4 down the track. do you think it could be the stock converter with my set up holding it back? I didn't expect it to fly, but I thought I would do better than that.
You hit the nail on the head, the stock converter is really holding you back as it is keeping you from leaving the starting line at an rpm where the engine is really making power, so the engine has to struggle up to the rpm where it really runs

One of the biggest performance mistakes I see people make is not buying a high enough stall, out of fear it will "slip too much". Then complain when the vehicle is a pig off the line.
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
You hit the nail on the head, the stock converter is really holding you back as it is keeping you from leaving the starting line at an rpm where the engine is really making power, so the engine has to struggle up to the rpm where it really runs

One of the biggest performance mistakes I see people make is not buying a high enough stall, out of fear it will "slip too much". Then complain when the vehicle is a pig off the line.
Okay good, I really thought that would have a lot to do with it. I'm going to get a good high performance converter befor I take it back.
A lot a of guys have recomended the jegs 3000RPM stall converter for a budget build, but I don't want crap, I want something that is really going to help me shoot off the line. I'll pay a little extra if I have to, if something is truly better. I guess what I'm saying, is A TCI or hughs racing converter worth the extra money?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2010, 12:58 AM
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I personally know people who have used the Jegs XHD 10" #60431 and the 9+" #60142 converters, I would take one of those over the TCI or B&M. The Hughes Pro Street and Race #GM35 is also good. Only TCI I would suggest using is the 10" Race Part #242200.

Converters are pretty much a "you get what you pay for thing", my race trans guy told me if you aren't spending $400 minimum you aren't getting really good quality and strength as the internal parts just cost enough that you can't do it right any cheaper when you build them,... and he builds converters.
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:14 AM
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Get the Continental... They stall and couple well. Feel like a stock converter during normal driving until you mash the pedal..
http://www.ctconverters.com/
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Stay away from used torque converers used rear gears and differentials and used girlfriends. Ya I'm talking about the 3500 stall.

Don't buy a cheap converter either. There is only one way to sell a cheap converter than that is to build it cheap.

Get a new B&M 10 " holeshot 3600. or some other brand name 3500 stall converter.



Do not buy a 12" converter.
Totally agree that B&M 10 " holeshot 3600 wicked, speaking with experience. The Hughes is a good brand also as too TCI ify they have good days but not everyday.
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:38 AM
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Torque converter

Talk to these guys www.ptcrace.com
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2010, 09:21 AM
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Okay, thanks for the help. I'm not sure which converter I'm going to go with but it will be one of the higher quality ones.

I have another question. I know where an 88 s-10 is that is in good shape and I could get it for free. I've been thinking about getting it and pulling my engine and trans out of my 83 full size and dropping it in the s-10. If I do this would the same converter work as good in the mini truck as it would in the full size?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 11-07-2010, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevydragster83
Okay, thanks for the help. I'm not sure which converter I'm going to go with but it will be one of the higher quality ones.

I have another question. I know where an 88 s-10 is that is in good shape and I could get it for free. I've been thinking about getting it and pulling my engine and trans out of my 83 full size and dropping it in the s-10. If I do this would the same converter work as good in the mini truck as it would in the full size?
Yep, stall may be a little lower(couple hundred rpm) due to the S-10's lower weight. It will be a much faster ride than a full size truck, that's for sure . The S-10 truck is almost the '55 Chevy of todays GM hotrod world, as it is available cheap, there are lots of them, it is light, rear drive, easy to modify and decent looking.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 03:37 PM
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yeah everyone has been trying to tell me my full size was just too heavy. Does anyone here know how hard it is to get big enough slicks on these s-10 trucks to make them hook up? oh and this s-10 has been lowered atleast 2in maybe a little more.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 09:36 PM
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A 28x11.5 slick fits just fine on the right offset 8-10" rim. A friend of mine has no problems running mid 11 second 1/4 mile times with 27x10.5" tires on his street S-10, pulls 60' times in the 1.6-1.7 second range. Leaf springs, Cal-Trac traction bars, good adjustable shocks, and there are quite a few people going 2 seconds faster with bigger engines on the same tires and suspention.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-08-2010, 10:12 PM
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The later S10's are not as light weight as the earlier years.
The extended cab S10 or long bed S10 is not really light weight.
I'd weight that S-10 before buying. Every 100 LBS is worth 1/10th off the ET.

I'd keep the full size truck and supercharge the crate motor motor with a Weiand 177.
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