Originally Posted by Lizer
Why am I dry sanding? Because most of the panels--except the fenders--have poly primer on them. I'm not real crazy about wet sanding polyester 'filler,' essentially. I have spoken to Barry on that issue before and he also wouldn't do it in a million years. Evercoat says the Slick Sand is dry or wet sandable but I just can't get brave enough.
I am constantly blowing the paper off with air. I sand a little bit, blow off the paper and panel, sand a few more strokes, and blow off some more. This avoids sanding with the paper completely clogged.
I am using blocks. On a tricky contoured spot that my round blocks can't do I'll cheat and use a piece of paper folded over several times and scuff out the area by hand.
I am not using guidecoat for the 400 sand. Someone here once (it was a professional) told me it wasn't necessary and I don't think we did it in some tech school classes I took a long time ago either. But I am sanding it outside in the sun and the light dances off the scratches well, so they have high visibility. That is if you were referring to guidecoat for scratch visibility as opposed to panel straightness.
I've visited with Barry about this in depth already which is why I've been doing what I've been doing, but was starting to really wonder on the amount of time it's taking me.
I'll seal a panel after just 400 and see how I make out.
On the rounded areas that a block won't work try the small 3M sqeegee they work great for those tight curved spots, there just flexible enough yet stay flat to the surface your sanding, I use them all the time in those complex curves. If you are using guide coat after the 220 grit the powdered version works much better for showing ANY imperfections or sand scratches.