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Old 12-01-2007, 07:00 AM
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Nearly everything we work on gets media blasted. Around here it's about $1,500.00 inside and out including the frame. For that price, they put it on a rotissori. I have paid as high as $2,200.00. Anyone doing it for less than $1,000.00 is loosing their butt.
Bob

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Old 12-01-2007, 07:08 AM
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I Once seen a pickup truck cab and box dipped in acid, came out looking like the sheet was just assembled, I would no way sandblast the body, media blast it...
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Old 12-01-2007, 07:11 AM
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Barry, you're probably thinking of either Albertville (used to be the odometer roll-back capital of the world) or a town in the vicinity. Sand Mountain is where you can get anything done to a car if you find the right place or person.

1930u, if there is a Tractor Supply anywhere near you, a lot of them carry Black Diamond (aka Black Beauty) in several different grits, and it runs about $6.50 for a 50-lb. bag. Don't even think about using anything else on the body panels unless you have a LOT of experience in doing so.
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Old 12-01-2007, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdguy
Barry, you're probably thinking of either Albertville (used to be the odometer roll-back capital of the world) or a town in the vicinity. Sand Mountain is where you can get anything done to a car if you find the right place or person.

1930u, if there is a Tractor Supply anywhere near you, a lot of them carry Black Diamond (aka Black Beauty) in several different grits, and it runs about $6.50 for a 50-lb. bag. Don't even think about using anything else on the body panels unless you have a LOT of experience in doing so.
\-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Is that black beauty like the starblast Shine uses? I looked all over for that stuff to do the jambs and tight areas on the vette and just plain gave up and let the sand blaster do it as I did not trust myself to do it with sand.
We have a new Tractor supply just built by us.

Bob, I agree, media does cost more and I would not do the job myself for less then $2000 and then I probably would not do it.

Also, this thread was about costs and times, don't think I promoting sand over anything because I'm not, I have no reason to care how anyone blasts their cars or try to sway them.

I'm only going to use sand on my cars and that is not for everyone and media is a great way and even better for most people.
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Old 12-01-2007, 07:17 PM
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I would have to go back and read Shine's posts to know for sure. Northern Tool also carries the same product as does Tractor Supply, so if one is more convenient than the other, that would help. I have found that different TS stores do not all carry the same stuff. The one in Huntsville doesn't carry any blasting abrasives at all, but the store up the road in Athens (a MUCH smaller town) has three different grades of Black Diamond as well as fine grade sand. Go figure. Here is the Black Diamond I got from TS:




All media have their best application and use. I agree it sure is hard to beat sand for fast cutting power.
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Old 12-01-2007, 07:58 PM
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Resto shop i used to work at we took them to a place in Pa. they would do plastic media (sand on the rust) for about $700.That was inside outside and they would lift it with a forklift and do the underside also. Thats a steal IMO.
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Old 12-01-2007, 08:41 PM
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I have a dealer near me who set up for plastic media blasting back in the GM peeler days and still runs it. I had a few cars done with the last one being about 10 years ago for only $400. From what I have heard they are only a few more bucks now. They had the system down tight with a booth to do it in and all.

Plastic media is the hot ticket in my opinion.

Brian
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Old 12-02-2007, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birdguy
I would have to go back and read Shine's posts to know for sure. Northern Tool also carries the same product as does Tractor Supply, so if one is more convenient than the other, that would help. I have found that different TS stores do not all carry the same stuff. The one in Huntsville doesn't carry any blasting abrasives at all, but the store up the road in Athens (a MUCH smaller town) has three different grades of Black Diamond as well as fine grade sand. Go figure. Here is the Black Diamond I got from TS:
All media have their best application and use. I agree it sure is hard to beat sand for fast cutting power.
__________________________________________________ __________

I think It is Sand mountain as whatever town it is it is a short distance from Rome, GA 30-40 minutes.

I go to Tractor supply every week for 150 lbs of corn and 40 lbs of cat food but never really looked around much but will check out Monday night when I make my weekly food run.
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Old 12-02-2007, 07:53 AM
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1930u, if there is a Tractor Supply anywhere near you, a lot of them carry Black Diamond (aka Black Beauty) in several different grits, and it runs about $6.50 for a 50-lb. bag. Don't even think about using anything else on the body panels unless you have a LOT of experience in doing so.[/QUOTE]

I'm using various grades of sand. I'm not conerned about the body panels...well I am but here's the deal. The floor pan is .068" thick with beads, breaks, rolls and folds everywhere. You have to hit it with a 5 lb hammer to even make a dent in it. The car is also a complete piece of crap which I should have left to finish decaying in the woods. So not worried about the floor at all. I pulled the doors, and rumble lid and had them dipped and they came out like new and they will not be involved in the blasting process.

The rest of the body metal ranges from .040 to near .050 thick will rolls and compound curves everywhere...no flat metal at all. And the roof hole is still open. Plus it has been hammered by falling tree limbs, rocks and a creek ran front to back through the left side, to the depth of the belt line, for who knows how many years. Bottom line it's a total piece of rusty crap and I know I will be making even more panels has this process goes on...I'm just to the point where I really need to knock the rust back and get it primered. From there I need to decide if I really want to save it.

Thanks
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Old 12-02-2007, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
From there I need to decide if I really want to save it.
Mr. Modest ...I recall seeing some pics of the repairs you did a long time ago on the rear panel below the lid & the right corner. I'm sure you will save it
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Old 12-02-2007, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1930u
I'm using various grades of sand. I'm not conerned about the body panels...well I am but here's the deal. The floor pan is .068" thick with beads, breaks, rolls and folds everywhere. You have to hit it with a 5 lb hammer to even make a dent in it. Thanks
How about if you hit it with 230,000 .0001 pound hammers? That is what sand blasting is, so keep that in mind. It is NOT heat that warps the panel, in fact the panel will be cooled by the air carrying the sand. It is "compresive mechanicalism" or something like that which distorts the metal.

Keep that in mind. Picture that bowl you made in high school by tapping on a sheet of metal a zillion times with the ball peen hammer. THAT is what sand blasting is doing.

Brian
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Old 12-02-2007, 08:14 PM
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Keep that in mind. Picture that bowl you made in high school by tapping on a sheet of metal a zillion times with the ball peen hammer. THAT is what sand blasting is doing.

Brian[/QUOTE]Brian, No kidding... I made a metal glass instead of a bowl but it was in 7th grade. I think I still have it.

This is a great forum...much knowledge and a willingness to help out.

Thanks to all!
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:16 PM
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Finally got started and just wanted to give everyone and update on my sand blasting project.

I'm using a (barrowed from a buddy) Empire model P150 abrasive blaster and a rental 185scfm compressor, rated at 130psi. The nozzle size is 1/2". The outlet blast pressure is 90psi. The compressor rental for 2-days is $90 and that included 75 feet of hose necessary to leave compressor outside and get to the tent I built in the back of my shop. Most important items a full hood, face shield, ear protection and recommened Niosh approved respirator! I bought my media from Lowes... just plain old medium grade sand.

This car was bad very, very rusty but so far so good. The gray metal you see on the bottom took about 30 minutes but you see I have a little more to go on bottom, so I would say 45 minutes. I estimate the inside floor will take about the same time. Then probably at least an 1 1/2 hour to do the horizontal panels inside the body, nooks, crannies, etc. Lastly I cut the pressure back even more and tested one spot on the outside panels blasting at an angle. In no time I had cleaned about 1 s.f.. I think the outisde will take less than an hour but I plan to drag it out because I don't want to warp this thing any worse than it already is.

It took longer for me to get everything set up and running than it did to do the bottom of the car (about 30 minutes). Then I wrapped up and took my wife out shopping for some after Christmas bargains. This is dirty nasty work but it's not difficult to do. I hope to have it done tommorow.

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2007, 05:14 AM
F&J F&J is offline
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I can't imagine trying to blast indoors

Is the rest of the shop staying clean?

The bottom of the coupe looks real solid... Now it's going to start to look like something good in a short time
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Old 12-29-2007, 06:15 AM
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1930 u, F&J said it best. I use what is called #4 sugar sand with a pressure pot. They are all right when they say you can destroy your body. But if you follow what F&J said you should be fine. Just remember not to blast straight on,always sweep at an angle and move around to keep from building too much heat in one area, You can always go back and hit it again if it is not clean enough to suit you.Also figure a whole days work if you are in good health. If you have such a pro style set up I would imagine you also have a supplied air helmet which would take care of you breathing in the dust. Just be careful and follow the rules and you should be OK. And as someone else said don,t start with to much sand or you will be wasting it. Start with a little and increase to where it works well with minimal sand.
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