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How much would you charge?

39K views 114 replies 18 participants last post by  AFX 
#1 ·
I started redoing the interior in my 78 ford truck a while ago, first time Ive done basically a completely custom interior and have been posting my progress on another forum. Still have a ton of work to do though. Anyways I got a lot of good feedback and had a lot of guys ask about doing some work for them. I figured why not since Im running short on cash for my project and its good practice. Lately Ive been doing some dash pads and Im curious about how much a shop would charge in labor to do this. Obviously I havent been doing this for very long and I cant do it as perfect as someone whos been doing it for years, but theyre coming out pretty nice. So could someone give me an idea of what youd charge. I have a feeling Im not selling them for enough. It takes more time than I was expecting to fix cracks, landau foam the top and sew a six foot seam. Ive sold 4 so far.

Heres the ones Ive done for customers. The orange thread wasnt my idea, But it turned out nice.lol. Working on a red one right now. These are all done in symphony vinyl.







I can start up a thread if anyone wants to see how my interiors coming along, but Im not really close to being finished. Ive kinda stopped because Ive decided to do a few things to it that I wasnt expecting to do, and I dont have the cash right now. heres one of the panels I finished up a little while ago.

 
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#27 ·
I used aluminum flat bar with rounded edges. This is the only supplier I could find that sells it with rounded edges. http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1282&step=2&top_cat=60
I use 1/4" and 3/8" wide. I rip it down the middle so I get two halves and file it smooth. The best way would be to bring it to a machine shop and have them machine it down to the height you want. Im always doing stuff the hard way to save me money, thats why I do it myself.

Or you can buy clayton machine works premade stuff. Just drill your mounting holes. For 1/4" I drill 3/32" and use #4 sheetmetal screws. For 3/8" I drill and tap, I cant remember the size I use. http://www.claytonmachine.com/interior-trim.html

Another option is to buy square bar and have a machine shop round the edges.
 
#35 ·
Still doing a lot of dashes and my french seams are pretty straight, but its hard to get these really long ones perfect. I read recently about a guy using a double needle machine to get perfect seams. Since I do a lot of french seams I figured thats a great idea. I could get perfect seams and cut down on time. He pulls one needle out for regular seams, but Ill still keep my single needle one.

Whats a good double needle machine. Im looking to pick up a used one.
 
#36 ·
Singer 212W is a good double needle machine. The problem with double needle machines is that they only do one width of seam. If the machine is set up for 1/2" between the stitch lines, that's all you can do unless you change a bunch of parts. They also do not make different feet for them, so if you want to sew a welt, it's not possible.
 
#37 ·
Thanks for that info. Thats one of the answers I was looking for, regarding the needle spacing. If I can find one that has the spacing Im looking for, it would work out. Im still planning on keeping my singer 111. I just think that with all the french seams I do it would be smarter, faster, and I would get a better seam. Mainly what I want is just a better, higher quality seam. Im a perfectionist and that type of stuff bothers the hell out of me.
 
#38 ·
So I did a set of visors And compared them. One set without those little metal chrome clips to finish off the stitching, and one set with. I personally like them with the clips. Where can I buy these from? Theres gotta be somewhere where I can pickup a box of them. Tried searching but had no luck, maybe Im not calling them by the right name. Any helps appreciated. Thanks

 
#39 · (Edited)
You would think that stuff like that would be easy to find, wouldn't you? The first problem is what are they called, which is sun visor binding tips. The only place I've seen them for sale by themselves is LeBaron Bonney.CLICK HERE These are the ones with the closed ends.
 
#41 ·
I found these. Looks like they might work, just need to be tweaked a little with some needle nose. Called nalclips, made for holding paper together, but same idea as a visor. I think theyre stainless too.

found them in this guys blog thing.
http://electricvogue.blogspot.com/2012_03_01_archive.html

Heres a link to office works, not sure what size would be best, might have to buy a couple different sizes and test them out.

http://www.officeworks.com.au/retai...tationery/Paper-Clips/NalClips-and-Dispensers
 
#42 ·
No, Au Ve Co doesn't have them. They have the little welt tips, but not the sun visor binding clips. I've looked for them before, and came up empty other than LeBaron Bonney.
 
#43 ·
I think that nalclip thing was a stupid idea, I failed to notice that I think theyre only sold in Australia, probably wouldnt have worked anyways, was just an idea. This visor binding clip is driving me crazy.

Have you tried this company to see if theyll sell clips to you. They have the straight ones I want. Ill send them an email.
http://www.autosunvisors.com/restoration.htm
 
#44 ·
So I gave up on those visor binding clips, that one sunvisor company sells them, but for $17 a set. No way Im spending that for those unless I really need them.

Did a couple more visors and was doing a dash pad today. I like to do all my top stitching with 138, but I think Ive finally realized my singer 111 doesnt consistantly sew 138 nice. Its been a pain to get the tension right when using that size, even when I think I have it right I get these inconsistent sections of really bad stitches, and Ill even get my top thread shredded sometimes. Ill spend hours trying to get it setup, but I still cant ever get it perfect. Ive basically tried everything.

So I did one set in 138 came out OK, but the stitches werent as nice as I like. Switched over to 92 on another set and it flew through them flawlessly. Am I right on this or am I just not setting up the machine right for 138? What are some good machines I can pick up used that can sew the larger thread real easy, Id like to be able to sew up to 270.

Heres the ones I did in 92 and they came out perfect.
 
#45 · (Edited)
What size needle are you using? Also, run the top thread straight through the thread guide on the top of the machine, like in the first picture. My sewing machine mechanic told me to do that with larger thread, but my Consew 226 with a size 22 needle sews fine with 138 with the thread run through the top guide like in the second picture.

If you want to sew with size 270, you need a machine with a larger bobbin, or you'll be changing bobbins every two minutes.
 

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#46 ·
Im doing the thread exactly like in your first picture. And Im using a 22 needle. Ive tried every combination of tension adjustments, but I just cant get it to consistently sew 138 nice with no problems.

Its frustrating because Ill sew one thing nice with 138 and then start on another thing and it sews terrible. Cant figure it out. I just had my machine serviced a little while ago, so it shouldnt be any problems with it. But like I said, 92 and smaller sews perfect.

I think Ill just start saving for a machine that can do the bigger stuff with no problems. Any suggestions.
 
#49 ·
I have found that bobbins that are wound by the user work better than pre-wound bobbins some times. I think it has something to do with less tension on the user wound bobbins, but that's just my own observations. I have had good luck with both pre-wound bobbins and user wound bobbins.

I guess that this response is not much help,............sorry.
 
#51 ·
You're welcome. Did you ever try to sew with the QTC Contrast thread? I got some size 25 needles and will try using it, but if you had no luck with it I won't try.
 
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