I just got an old Dune Buggy on a VW chassis. I was told that it had sat in a field for about 35 years.
The chassis was rotten out and broken in half. I just got done with redoing that.
My next step is to prep the body for paint and then have it professionally painted.
So far the only thing I have done to the body is to scrub it down with Dawn and lots of water.
As it is now, the surface feels like sand paper and there isn't a speck of paint left on the body. It had a gold, metallic finish at one time.
Any thoughts on how to go about this would be greatly appreciated.
I've screwed up painting every time I've tried it, but budget does not allow to have it all done in a shop. So the more I can do the cheaper it should be
(unless I mess it up bad) :nono:
Repair any breaks with matte and resin. I have sanded the old surface with course paper. 80 grit by hand and 36 with DA. Then a few heavy coats of polyester or urethane primer to build up surface and go from there.
Did a 40 Ford front for a VW that was like you described, lots of crazing. Turned out very good.
I've been watching some U-tube video on diy painting and saw some videos on people using a roller for painting cars. Is this something I should give a shot for the primer only, or is it completely moronic ?
The mods will move this to the " come on man thread " The answer is no. And heck no , you would be better off going to Earl Scheib for $199!! Look at all the work done so far!! I feel like we all are being Trolled here!!
So looks like it's time to get the drive way set up for body work and priming. (the wife will love that)
I'll buy a gallon of Evercoat Slick sand primer. I have a 30 gal compressor, recon I need a dryer and a spray gun. What size tip should I get for the gun?
So looks like it's time to get the drive way set up for body work and priming. (the wife will love that)
I'll buy a gallon of Evercoat Slick sand primer. I have a 30 gal compressor, recon I need a dryer and a spray gun. What size tip should I get for the gun?
The 30 gallon would be a bit small but can technically still get the job done. To squirt that Slick Sand you need AT LEAST a 2 mm tip but I use a 2.5mm and it works a lot better. I don't know anything about fiberglass gel coating. However it's too bad people have to almost get accused of being a troll for asking a "stupid" question. It's condescending.
I was just reading a little about it. Seems like a good step. But every thing body work related is totally foreign to me. Can you elaborate on re-gel coating merit and application. Will it need paint after wards, or is that the final step.
Some interesting replies here, but some better than others. Firstly with fibreglass, DON'T USE WATER for anything. Keep the body as dry as possible and give the complete unit some time in a dry place to completely dry out. If you ignore this advice, you will be very prone to microblisters the first time it goes out in the sun.
First steps are to repair any damage. Without seeing it, it is difficult to advise you properly. However, the normal routine is to clean the affected area with Acetone. Then abrade the back of the repair area with coarse paper. Wipe again with Acetone. Then lay up some fibreglass mat and allow to cure. Now you can take an angle grinder with a stone cutting disc and grind out all the damage into a saucer shape. Bear in mind that the damage is larger than the area you can see! Clean with Acetone and then lay up fibreglass mat in random size pieces until the area is above the original surface. Allow to cure then sand and finish as normal.
There are other methods of repair, including taping up the face side and repairing just from the back, which can save some finishing work.
During all this work, keep moisture away from it and if possible, keep it in a heated garage for a few months.
Once all the body is finished, sand with 120 grit and give it two coats of epoxy primer, followed by colour coats of your choice.
My garage is being taken up by my other project, 1972 Bronco. I live in northern NM so humidity and too much rain is not an issue and a tarp is the best I will be able to do.
I am taping up the front with wax paper and applying matte and resin to the back.
I've gotten some great advice here, as usual and now have a place to start and a direction to go in. :thumbup:
I'm still wondering what grit paper I should be using at what stage. (yes, I know this is a stupid question, but I have NO body work experience)
i do not use chemical strippers . i media blast mine then wash well with dawn soap and water then flush well. you will never blow all the media out. i also do metal cars the same way .
As per my previous, keep water well away from fibreglass repairs, unless you like your paintwork enhanced with crops of microblisters. Acetone or alcohol panel wipe are the onY fluids that should get near it.
For sanding, you will need nothing below 80. Use that for shaping and contours. Then move to 120 - 320 for epoxy coats. Take the epoxy down to 320/400 with a D/A for solid colours, 800 for metallics.
i have used soap and water on glass since the 70's . most every chem strip is water clean up. the one thing you do not use is lacquer thinner. i also dont use solvent for first clean. i want to remove the contaminate not dissolve it into the glass.
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