My 30 Plymouth Coupe is now freshly blasted to white metal. I coated the body with an aviation rust inhibitor until I get the chance to acid wash the nooks and crannies. Then the plan is to coat everything with epoxy primer.

Once the primer is on I will reinstall the body on the chassis put the doors on, install bear claw latches and fit, shim and finish all body work. Fab up the roll bar and seat mounts. I also plan to weld in my roof panel at that time. All the rough fab work for steering, swing pedals, engine and trans is done. What other preliminary body related work should I do?

I don’t plan to remove the body again until I paint it. The chassis is in great shape. All I have to do is tear down, re-bush, seal, pack bearing, clean, paint, detail, drop in the engine/trans, etc.

I just don’t want to forget anything that may effect the paint job after its done. Should I put it all together turn key in primer and then run it around for awhile before I paint it?

Thanks to all of you that have helped me along the way!

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Yah thats what I plan on doing that why you don't have to worry about drilling any holes what so ever in your final paint job

I am not a professional painter so if one does not agree with my statement I would like to hear why as I am always ready to learn. I find the epoxy primer very good but hard to sand. So when I spray the epoxy primer during the proper window according to the manufacturer I spray my high build primer then I am able to skip sanding the epoxy primer.So far I have found this works very well. Just make sure to follow the directions of your paint manufacturer.

It all depends on the products you are using. I know everybody has their personal choices but I like to use DP-90 with 401 on metal but if sealing body work before primer filler I use the 402 hardener. They are quite different. 401, I feel need to cure for about 3 days before you go over it with body work or any primer and it has to be sanded to do that, but 402 is the sealer hardener and can be sprayed over your bodywork rite before the fill primer. ALWAYS wait the correct flash times, also 401 is the one for direct to metal NOT 402. Any way if you have a da sander the stuff sands fine. IMHO, Epoxies are not meant to fill and they don't block good. They are ment to seal. Tim

I finished a Mustang project a few months ago that had nothing on the metal except epoxy and the top coats. There was no HB primer or filler on that project. I used SPI epoxy on the bare metal and blocked it. I usually try to wait 24-48 hours before blocking the epoxy and it sands just fine. I would shoot 2-3 coats of epoxy and allow the correct amount of flash time between coats, and had no problems with it. There are others that are using the same process with great results. If you do wait over the recoat window for that product, sanding should not be a problem with a quality epoxy primer.

Aaron

SPI epoxy is the thing, much better than the expensive PPG stuff. Sands fairly well after cure and is vastly more durable.

Vince

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My project 34
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Tim, I agree most epoxies aren't designed for sanding and fill but there are some that are. If you have the chance try some SPI epoxy and you won't believe how nice this stuff sands after a 24hour cure- it is a different animal.

I have been using the PPG and found it hard to sand. Tell me more about this SPI. Who makes it and who sells it and how much is the average price?

Thanks roger1.

Never heard of spi before.Plz enlighten me I am very interested,With the price of paint these days I am always looking for quality materials for cheep price,. Tim

Letscutitup, Did you see the site roger1 posted?

Yes I did see the link,but I want to hear about it from people who have used it. I can read all day long but real world in the shop experience is what I want to hear about. How it works for the person using it ,ease of sanding, how does it fill etc. . also what does it look like down the road after it was used. Also how is the support if you have questions? With the price of name brand stuff these days I am always looking to cut costs ,BUT not quality. I want to try new stuff base on how it work for other people in the real world.Tech sheets make every product sound great.

I know what you mean,when selling everybody claims theirs is the best.

Use the advanced search feature and search on SPI for this forum.
There are years worth of posts of discussions on SPI products from the pros and amateurs alike.