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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2008, 01:34 PM
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How to properly mate a GM pump to a Mustang II rack

Thanks for caster *, think mine was set a 2*.Cisco
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 03-24-2008, 12:03 AM
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[QUOTE=
Hey, Bad Rat, did your springs soften any with use.I got 150 miles on the car.When you took out the smallest leaf,did it lower the car any?
I'm calling my car a cat rod as I raise Maine Coon cats.Other than flaming cats painted on the car, any ideas for paint?

Removing the leaf did lower it just a little maybe a 1/2 inch,, but helped the ride quality alot,, you could probably take 2 out if its really stiff,, just play it by ear,[ well maybe feel]

Mine is Chrysler Cool Vanilla,, the off white coor,, but we put some Platuneum pearl in the paint.. which made it a little matallic, then did a narrow gold leaf and tan pinstripe around the car at the body line,, and a little stripping around the taillights,, these pictures were taken before the pinstriping was done
As for yours,, I think ,, just go wth what you like,, personally I like clean uncluttered paint jobs,, especally on this style car,, its all in what ever taste you have,, a 38 chev has some pretty good lines for 2 tone paint,,

Look in some magazines for ideas,,,,
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2008, 02:56 PM
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Ok,,, as I mentioned.. I fixed my screwup with getting the hoses hooked up wrong,, but now after I have been able to drive the car, and see how its going to react to the smaller pully, I think the steering is fine at slower speeds ,, but at about 40-45 it feeks a little quick,,
I checked into the valve idea, and found that that particular valve is designed for the O-ring type pumps,, Early GM,, I am using a 02 GM pump,, off of a camaro, the valve won't work with this pump..
Anyone have any Ideas, or know of a valve that will work,,??
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2008, 03:32 PM
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Is there anything you can do to get clearance for the proper size diameter pulley? Cut a notch or something? I think that would solve your problem. I also understand that there is a kit available for the built in pressure valve in your pump.....the kit as I understand it consists of several different springs and shims to use to either decrease or increase the pump pressure.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2008, 06:16 PM
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There isn't any way the bigger pulley would work with out taking a big chunk out of the fender,, so after a bit of checking,, I found a soluation to my problem , No one makes a valve that will work with the newer GM pumps, EXCEPT Heidts,,[ which will work with ANY pump] they have a patent on an ADJUSTABLE valve,, simular to the brake adjustable valve used to adjust the bias between the front and rear brake systems that came out a few years back [ I could never get them to work properly] any way this valves is plumbed into the pressure side supply line and has a return line also plumbed for the return line,, it can be adjusted all the way down to the equivalant of a manual rack,
This headache pill cost 79$ not including the fitings to adapt it thats another 49$,, but if it will solve the problem,, its worth it,, especally since I ain't paying for it
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2008, 12:54 PM
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Has anyone ever used a Ford pump bolted to the Chevy block - there must be an adaptor somewhere.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2008, 12:38 AM
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re: How to properly mate a GM pump to a Mustang II rack

I have the Heits PS valve,to get pressure down I had to completely unscrew the valve and put it back on 1 1/2 turn and did up lock nut.I used their hose kit ,$200, but was easy to do and made nice lines.
I also checked my front end alignment, as I suggested using a 67 Mustange measurement, turns out they couldn't get any positive caster, so it's slightly negative. I don't know what to do as I might have to cut the IFS off and have it rewelded. Cisco
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2008, 10:15 AM
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I just had to turn my adjustment out about 2 1/2 turns,, works great,, at both low and highway speeds,,
I understand that the later T-Bird racks [mine is a 85]are designed for more pressure than the earlier 74-78 mustang racks, I measured the tires at a specific point front and rear before removing the tires when disassembling the front end. and reassembled it with the power rack to the same measurements and then took it to the alignment shop,, and he didn't have to change anything,,[got lucky]

Now if I can just get the howling out of the rearend,,,,
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2008, 08:24 AM
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Borgeson GM Pump Pressure Kit

Just got part number for Borgeson for anyone that needs it.

Part # 89001

Dave G
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2008, 01:11 PM
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Well I noticed I'm a little behind on this one, but I would like to give a little info that I've learned from KRC Power Steering on this.

The psi of a pump is the pressure relief the pump will go to and when you change the psi it doesn't effect the steering. Most pumps on the market have around 1050 to 1200 psi pressure relief, but they only put out about 30 psi by themselves. Where the pressure comes from in the system is the servo when it's opened and closed. If you want to change the feel of the steering you change the amount of flow. Most after market pumps put out 3 gpm which sometimes is to much for a street driven car. I do know that KRC can change the flow fitting from 1 gpm to 3 gpm with their 8 different flow fittings. They have also run into some issues with Mustang II racks that have been softened that it makes it very difficult to get the feel back.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 07:36 PM
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I've heard that with the PS valve shim kit there is a rise in the temperature of the PS pump. Is this true, and will this become a problem for the pump? I'm running the early (teardrop) GM pump with a power MII rack (2.5 turns rack-to-rack). I installed a Speedway fitting on the back of the pump that screws-in and reduces the flow from 3 GPM to 2 GPM. I don't notice that the '40 Ford PU is "twichy", but then, I steer with both hands. There's absolutely no road feel of the road at all. No fluid leaks anywhere and it's great compared to the manual rack I had in before. However, I wouldn't mind some resistance in the steering.

One other problem that I'm having is trying to get enough positive caster. I salvaged OEM support arms and spindles from a donor '78 MII. I combined this with the bolt-in Chassis Engineering front crossmember. All rebuilt and rebushed and installed. I went to get an alignment and they couldn't get enough positive caster. I called CE and asked if it would be OK to lengthen the slots for the T-bolts, and they said it wouldn't hurt anything. Anyone had experience with this?

Last edited by Elder Rodder; 10-31-2009 at 10:57 AM.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 09:02 PM
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Elder Rodder,

It okay to lengthen the slots to get more positive caster. I did it in my '40 Pickup also. As for the power steering, I just cut my tension spring about 3/8" and it feels just find.

Didn't know that you hung out here too, ALittle40!
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2009, 09:24 AM
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Thanks..

HI Guys..

Thanks. I am working on a toy here, a old 41 chevy, 78 one ton frame, Century wheel lift wrecker bed.

What I needed you gave me. THE PSI for the steering circuitry. WHAT I want to do? put the HUGE hydraulic pump there on the engine, run a Cheap automatic transmission without the PTO.

I'll rig it up as planned off the engine w-pulley, use a pressure regulator LIKE NORTHERNTOOL sells to adjust the pressure down for the brake hydraulic booster and steering box. Hydraulic quick Connectors on each end of the truck for accessories. (tractor supply CORP)

You'd be surprised what you can learn by reading irrelevant posts to "YOUR" project huh? More information to use later. Cut and pasted to my project.



Thanks.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2009, 11:59 AM
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Hi Little40,

I've wondered about you from time-to-time, and your health issues. Your PU must be all done by now, and running the roads. I'll check out your gallery and see what you've got there since I last visited it.

Thanks for the post about the slots for adjustment on the caster/camber situation. I guess with the power rack you can use all you can get. I was amazed that my PU weighs 3100 pounds with the SB Chevy in it. I'll lengthen the slots for my winter work. Also need to finish the interior this winter. I was interested to hear you say that you cut the spring in the PS pump. I hear of people using shim washer kits to drop pressure with the GM pump to MII power rack, but haven't heard of cutting the spring. Is that decreasing the flow in GPM, giving less power to the rack, and getting it feeling more like a manual one? What does that do to the pressure to the rack? It seems like that would increase pressure if the shimming kit decreases it. Wouldn't that tend to make it leak past the seals? I'm in deep water here, and getting my PS eduction on the run.

I come to this site when I've got something I need to know. Its been a great source for me. It's nice that I got a response on such an old thread, and especially from you.

Thanks,
Elder Rodder
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