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Old 08-21-2003, 03:27 AM
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How to Protect from Rust Until I Paint

I want to protect this spot from rusting between now and the time I paint my truck a whole new color. The "white" area you see in the pic is BARE metal and (though you can't see it) the paint has lifted, like a "raised wing," to the right of that spot and is sticking out so I could stick my finger in there -- you know what I mean?

Should I break that piece off or just leave it and spray primer in there and over the bare metal?

Any advice is appreciated.



Alan
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Old 08-21-2003, 04:38 AM
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Horvath...go to your local paint jobber. You can get GOOD primer in a rattle can. They now sell epoxy primer and etching primer in rattle can. They are fairly expensive for what they are but will work for what you need. The last can I bought was about $13.00. With a good primer it will be compatable with whatever you use to paint your truck vs. the $2.98 can of primer.

Kevin
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Old 08-21-2003, 05:15 AM
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Thanks, Kevin!

I will certainly start with that. Can I get a color that won't jump out at me? I was thinking of that brick red color primer ... might not look as ugly as gray, ya know?

PS - What's the diff between epoxy and etching primers?

Alan
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:08 AM
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unfortunately primer doesn't prevent rust a damn bit. it actually absorbs moisture...I learned this the hard way too.

I now put phorphoric acid on bare metal, it works pretty well for stopping rust from occuring.
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:40 AM
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The best way to fix that spot is first bump out the dent. You can use the peen on a ball peen if you don't have a body hammer. Tap gently and slowly all around the back side of the dent until it pops out. Avoid over hammering and stretching the metal. No need to do a perfect metal finish if you are not confident in your skills. Then use your DP sander to feather the paint out to get rid of the loose stuff. Finally, spray it with body shop rattle can primer like Kevin45 recommends, then coat that with a good coat of body shop rattle can flat clear coat. This will give the official "in progress" look that is a mark of pride for any hot rodder and will protect the metal 'til you are ready for the paint job.
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:35 AM
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do you know how the damage was incurred?

If so, when you are bumping the metal, work it out in the order in which it was damaged.

Despite my respect for Kevin and Willys, I'll still stand firm in saying that primer will not stop rust. If that area is going to be exposed to moisture for any period of time, you can expect rust to creep through. I learned this in a pretty horrible experience...where I paid to have many pieces of sheetmetal on my truck sandblasted and primed. I hit the area with primer sealer from a spray can figuring I'd be safe...and within days I had rust rearing its' head from under the fresh primer.

Good luck.
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by unstable
I'll still stand firm in saying that primer will not stop rust.
Good luck.
I agree. That is why I recommended primering then spraying on a top coat of flat clear coat. The latter will seal the primer since it is a top coat paint but keep the primer look so he can drive with pride!
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Old 08-21-2003, 05:22 PM
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Cool. I got the picture now. Thanks, guys.

Unstable : No, I don't know how it happened ... I bought it that way. And, I guess without clear coat to keep the moisture out, rust would occur -- that's why I'm here! I wouldn't have known that! Jeeze! When I think of how many vehicles I've seen with primer and no clear coat driving around ...


Alan
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Old 08-21-2003, 06:04 PM
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well the best you can do (if you don't know how the damage was incurred) is try to picture the damage happening, and work from there.

Should humor yourself and try hitting the bare metal with Phosphoric Acid prior to priming it. I myself started using it, and I can say without a doubt that it works.

I remember reading a thread about having to "neutralize" the acid. This is not necessary. I just coat the area, let it sit for at least a day or so...sometimes longer, scuff it up a little and prime it.

I actually think I'm going to do my entire truck in primer/clear.
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:26 PM
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Well My car has been stripped for about 3 months now and no rust has occured. I live in the desert though, and its in the garage all day. Damn thats a pretty truck
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:36 PM
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Thanks, Chris!


That spot has been exposed on my truck since January ... lots of snow and rain since then and it's NOT garaged (I'm in New Jersey) ... and still not ANY sign of rust! I'm amazed, to be honest!

Unstable : Dude -- I've never banged any metal before! Isn't it possible that I could make things worse for the guy who DOES fix that spot?


Alan
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Old 08-21-2003, 09:54 PM
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oh you aren't planning on fixing it yourself?
Sorry, I was under the impression you were.

I certainly wouldn't pay someone to knock that out. I think if you took your time, you could easily make that look good.

I personally think the hardest part is the metal finishing, bumping is fairly easy...and the more you do it, the better you get. Just as long as you recognize you are probably going to have to use a little bit of filler.

Keep us posted regardless of what happens.
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Old 08-21-2003, 10:30 PM
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I thought I would just "protect" the bare metal until the fixing got done. I dunno, maybe it's time I learned a little body work ... but having ZERO knowledge about it, I sure ain't about to start messin' with anything until I'm absolutely sure I know what I'm doing.

I'm a graphic artist -- I sculpt and work with clay -- so maybe I'd discover that body work is the same thing, eh? I've only been a legitimate hotrodder for 7 months and I sure have learned a bundle -- much thanks to everyone here for most of it, too!

Alan
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Old 08-22-2003, 03:26 AM
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Horvath...if you've ONLY been a rodder for seven months, I'm looking forward to what the next seven brings on the truck.

Kevin
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Old 08-22-2003, 06:28 AM
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I find metal bumping as a very rewarding part of hot rodding. I don't think there's a much better feeling when you take an area that is all messed up and massage it back into place.

If you know someone who will do the work for you at a reasonable price, that's an option. I can appreciate that your truck is in pretty good shape already, and knocking it with hammers may be counter productive.
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