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how to remove cab off frame....

30K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  timothale 
#1 ·
slowly working on a 57 chevy pickup. i have the bed off and the front fenders and nose off. all thats left is the cab which is not bolted to the frame. has anyone taken off the cab by them selves or with one other person. im not working in a driveway or a garage on this project. in fact its behind the garage with limited space and a slight incline haha. reason for lifting the cab is so i can roll the frame out so i can pull the motor and trans before winter and clean up and paint where the cab sits. and roll the frame back under.

what im thinking is i use jacks and lift the cab enough to get two by fours under it and them on blocks just high and wide enough to roll the frame out.

or i use my engine hoist and rig it up to the cab to lift enough to make a small wooden frame on blocks and rest the cab back down on that.

give me ideas to make this easier, quicker, safer... pics would be helpful.

thanks.

ill post pics of my project area.
 
#2 ·
I did the jack it up and roll the frame out from under on my'52. You will have to have your supports wide enough to clear the tires when the frame rolls out so you will probably need 4 x 4s instead of two by fours. It still took three people for me to pull this off. I supported the 4xs on old SOLID oil drums. If you decide to try this be careful that cab may be heavier than it looks and can be awkward. Good luck :D
 
#5 ·
We used an engine lift to take my cab off, which was relatively easy to do ... as the cab was completely stripped. Doors off, windshield and backlite removed, etc.

Screwed an engine lifting (carb stud type) plate onto a 2" x 6" x 8' which we put thru both door openings. Came at it with the engine lift thru the windshield opening.

Going back on the frame was done manually, 4 guys and some ramps. Laid the ramps against the frame rail so that the poor buggers that had to cross the frame had a place to set the cab while they jumped over the frame rails.:sweat:

I gotta say, it was a whole lot easier using the engine lift. :thumbup:
 
#6 ·
You could try this?

You'll need 1 buddy and a pick-up to do it this way. First thing is remove the motor and trans. Cut a whole bunch of 2x4's 12" long. Lift each side up and place the 2x4's at the 2 corners then you can run a couple of 4x4's across to set the frame on. When placing the 2x4's rotate them as in 2 one way & 2 the other way so they interlock (make sure you leave a big enough gap to slide the frame out without the front wheels on it). Once you raise it up a bit take some 2x6's 8' long under the control arms so the drums don't drag on the ground. Take the front wheels off and lower the control arms onto the 2x6's. Check for clearance, you may have to raise it a bit more. Leave the back wheels on and tie a rope or chain to the back of the truck and slowly pull the frame out. As you do this get a buddy with another 2x4 long enough the pry the frame either way as you pull it out. This way you don't have to raise it to high. Also cut some 1/2" plywood the same size as the 2x4's to level the corners for uneven ground and if you take your time it should come out without a problem. Do what swvalcon says take the doors off remove any weight you can. Doing it this way by raising it a foot and a half is much better than trying to get it up on barrels and it tips over on somebody especially when you are lifting it. This may take a little time to do but its the safest taking in consideration of your work area. Take care and play safe!! :thumbup:
 
#7 ·
I've done this several times. Once using the method described by 66GMC. I've also used 2 heavy nylon straps worked around the cab. Then used the cherry picker/engine lift. I build a frame out of 6 X 6 with heavy duty caster, and was able to wheel the cab around.
 
#8 ·
you could use a kids swingset to hold the cab up.Jack up the truck, tie it to the swingset(closest to the A frames for strength) and once tied, lower the frame from under the cab...voila.
I know it sounds funny, just dont use a real flimsy swingset, or make some A frames out of some heavy pipe and do the same thing
 
#11 ·
ogre said:
4 guys, 2 min. it really is the easy way...buy a 12 pack and get 3 more guys.
Great for you younger guys. But all of my friends (that's YOU Rattler 454) are old geezers just like me. Bad backs, bum knees, hips replaced, pace makers acting up. And a quart of Metamucil is a far more welcome enticement for this gang than a case of beer. Not to mention the fact that trying to organize these retired louts into a work crew is like trying to herd cats.

All that to say, I'd much rather rig up something so I can do it all solo on the day and hour I am ready. For the sedan delivery I made up a framework of 2x6's, fastened the top to my ceiling joists and then used a chain hoist to lift off the body.

However, during the lift-off I quickly discovered that the chain could scratch and mar the body, so while the body was up on stands, I bought a harbor freight winch made for the task. And it worked super when I dropped the body back down on a dolly for painting and then later for picking up the body again and placing it on the chassis. All-in-all I spent far less time making the support posts than I would have spent on the phone trying to organize the work parties needed.



 
#12 ·
cboy said:
Great for you younger guys. But all of my friends (that's YOU Rattler 454) are old geezers just like me. Bad backs, bum knees, hips replaced, pace makers acting up. And a quart of Metamucil is a far more welcome enticement for this gang than a case of beer. Not to mention the fact that trying to organize these retired louts into a work crew is like trying to herd cats.

All that to say, I'd much rather rig up something so I can do it all solo on the day and hour I am ready. For the sedan delivery I made up a framework of 2x6's, fastened the top to my ceiling joists and then used a chain hoist to lift off the body.

However, during the lift-off I quickly discovered that the chain could scratch and mar the body, so while the body was up on stands, I bought a harbor freight winch made for the task. And it worked super when I dropped the body back down on a dolly for painting and then later for picking up the body again and placing it on the chassis. All-in-all I spent far less time making the support posts than I would have spent on the phone trying to organize the work parties needed.



i like the set up. kudos to your cab stands. they look beastly.
 
#13 ·
unearthly57 said:
... kudos to your cab stands. they look beastly...
Yes they are very stout. They are steel "grinder stands" that I found on sale at the local Menards (for those outside the Midwest, Menards is a bit like Home Depot or Lowes only more down to earth and working-guy friendly). They have come in handy for all sorts of odd jobs.

But no matter how stout the stands, I would advise always keeping the hoist completely fastened to the body as a backup precaution. Dumping a body could be disaster...particularly if you happen to be under it when it goes.
 
#16 ·
ezekiel said:
...I can't see how that wooden frame is supported in the photos. Did you attach the 2x6's to the ceiling?
The top cross beam was assembled to the two support posts and then the unit was titled up and squared up with a level. Then I screwed a 2x4 to the ceiling joists on each side of the cross beam to keep it from moving.

I take this down whenever I'm not using it (to make more room in the shop) so I need to make it somewhat "portable".
 
#17 ·
Once you live with one you'll never be able to go without. The fact that I am 30 miles out of town also makes it extremely difficult for me to call up buddies to swing by and help.

My build has been done completely by myself with the assistance of my trusty hydraulics.

As far as a platform for the cab , I use a wood pallet with harbor freight casters bolted to it. Nice easy $20 rolling cart.
 
#23 · (Edited)
gantry crane

I welded up a roll around Gantry crane, Like the one HF sells only bigger and stronger. I bought a School swing set a few years ago and the 6 In channel V tongues and axles from Portable school classrooms (Trailers) Swing set is outside, stores the Camper shell for one of the trucks. I used to use it for lifting projects when I made the gantry I used the School V tongues and some 6 X 6 1/4 wall tubing and 4 in I beam and trollies. MY Case 580 Ck is the preferred lifter if a project is outside. The farm forklift won't lift as much weight as the Case, and the forks are short, I used to have Fork extensions, Will need to weld up some .
 
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