[DanTwoLakes]

A stitch every 15 seconds? Why not just turn the wheel by hand?

Once more comes my question: Why not just learn to use the machine like it was intended?

[PaulG]

Once more comes my question: Why not just learn to use the machine like it was intended?

Well I guess you could. And that would be fine. And really makes allot more sense too. But, then, there would be no point in having a thread titled "How to slow down your sewing machine". Or I guess you could still have a thread titled "How to slow down your sewing machine while still learning to use the machine like it was intended". Now that would be cool!

[DanTwoLakes]

The way to slow the machine down and still have it work like it should is to put a smaller pulley on the sewing machine's motor, and/or use a servo motor. Then when you got better at operating the machine you could go back to a larger pulley. My servo motors come with two different pulleys, one is 100mm and the other is 90mm. Cutting the diameter down to 45mm cuts the speed in half. Adjusting the servo motor's controls and learning to operate the foot pedal would make the machine crawl if you wanted it to.

If you look back at the first few posts of this thread that's what you'll find. Both of those suggestions have been offered here dozens of times in a dozen different threads. They are the simplest ways to go about it.

I'll ask again: When you first learned to drive did you use the car just like it was made or did you put a go cart engine under the hood?

[PaulG]

Dan, there's no reason to get upset because I used an unorthodox way of powering my machine. It's not like I took a perfectly good servo motor off it and replaced it with a drill. But even if I had, so what? I bought the head and needed a way to power it. This way was cheaper and I'll bet if you used it, you would not think it was a "Go cart engine in a car". And I can put a larger pulley on it also to make it go faster just like the servo motor. But that really doesn't matter because it works for me just fine. If everyone else thinks it's the dumbest thing they ever saw, well, that's OK. You’re certainly not going to hurt me feelings.

It's just that sometimes, reading how someone did one thing, gives you ideas on how to do something else. Someone might say "that's a dumb way to power a sewing machine, but that would work great for my bead roller". Or whatever.

Anyway, if I offended you, I am sorry. Your "How to" articles and info on this forum are a HUGE source of great info for many people including myself.

Thank you

Paul

[DanTwoLakes]

You're not offending me at all. You are perfectly free to power your sewing machine any way you want. I think it would do you well not to say things like .... "For $60 you can have a drive system that will kill any gear reduction servo motor on the market. If you don't need real fast speed, this will give you maximum control." .... Your power system, as ingenious as it is, will not out perform a clutch motor, much less a servo motor. My point in this whole discussion is to point out that learning to use the sewing machine as it was designed is a better alternative. Sure you can slow the machine down at first to get the hang of using it, but learning to slip the clutch or being able to control the machine with the foot pedal is the ultimate goal.
While nobody, myself included, needs to sew super fast, slowing the machine down so that it barely crawls is a waste of a good sewing machine. If you wanted to sew one stitch every 15 seconds, you could do that with the hand wheel and saved yourself the $60, and all the time and energy that went along with it.

[PaulG]

Dan, you are intent on having the last word. And shall you will.

[bentwings]

Dan,

I just ran across this servo motor. Is this any good or just cheap junk.???

http://www.southstarsupply.com/catal...oducts_id=2730

I'm going to call them Monday and see if the price still holds and more info.

[DanTwoLakes]

It is not top of the line, but would probably still be better than the clutch motor you have now. Check out the specs on this one: SEW QUIET 4000 As far as I'm concerned, this is the best one out there. Yes, it's $65 more, but the shipping is free and it is well worth it.

[Old Fool]

speaking of V-belts, have any of you ever used the segmented type v-belt?

They run very smooth and have a long lifespan as compared to a standard v-belt.

I was a millwright in a very large industrial setting, 67 acres under the roof and we had a lot of machines running of v-belts. I changed out lord know how many v-belts over the 30 years of my employment there. (all as a millwright)

I never once replaced a broken segment belt. I do not recall replacing any of them as a scheduled maintenance it either. the darn things lasted a looooong time.

The belts we used were a steel rivet and leather (brammer)design.

the belts in the link I am posting are a segmented belt but not of the exact design I have experience with. I am posting the link to show the concept of the segmented belt.

when I acquire my sewing machine I will be adding a servo motor if it doesn't have one and will be putting on a segmented belt.

http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_per...wist_home.aspx

fyi, cheesy as they look, dont think that a segmented belt is not for hi hp/torque applications. many of the ones I installed and removed were powered by 100hp electric motors spinning 5000# flywheels. 6 belts were used in that application.

[DanTwoLakes]

Those belts are generally considered a stop gap until you can replace it with an actual one piece belt, but you are right, they are tougher than tough.
You will never have to replace a belt on a sewing machine once you get one the right length. You never will have a situation where you're sewing at a constant speed for any length of time. I use 3VX cog belts on all 3 of my sewing machines.