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Old 04-14-2007, 04:44 AM
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How to spot repair base coat?

Project is a deck lid for a Firebird. Solid Black BC/CC

It was just based and cleared, but there were several areas with deep fish eyes in the clear. (The compressor was spitting a little oil and I think the little filters did not stop it - either that or there is some ultra nasty dust in the utility room / makeshift booth I am using)

Anyway, in the process of sanding the clear to get out the fish eyes, I broke through the base coat in a small area (1x3). If I were to just spray base over the area where I broke through, then clear the whole part again, how do you do it so it will not show?

I have heard that if you put base over clear in a spot repair, rather than basing the whole panel, the edge where the base overlaps the clear will show. Is this true for solid colors or just metallics? Is there a way to do a spot repair that will be invisible or should I bite the bullet and start over from the beginning?

The base is too thin to feather off the clear only, so that I can't really put base on base, it is going to overlap the clear. What technique do the experts use to blend the base into the clear?

I appreciate any help you can give.

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Old 04-14-2007, 08:50 AM
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This is an everyday occurance, not a big deal. Just treat it as you would a OEM finish (well sort of) with a flaw that you are going to spot paint. Sand out the flaw and because you hit the base you will need to apply a coat and "blend" that out onto the clear, then clear the whole panel. Of course, you will need to prep the whole panel just as you would with that OEM blend by sanding it with 800 or 1000 or at least a gray scuff pad until there is no shine.

If this was done within an hour or so you could repair that spot and apply the base and clear without sanding the rest of the panel. But now that this has been a day, sand the clear just as if it was OEM.

You will need to watch the base as you can't apply it very heavy if this was not an activated base, it will lift very easy. If your base was activated by adding hardener or using an "intergrated" reducer which has an activator in it, be careful and don't use too "hot" of a reducer when you apply that base.

Brian

By the way, those "fish eyes" could be dust, sometimes your clear can flash off fast and right at the top of the clear it will get firm. A piece of dust can land on top and "fall" thru like something sitting on an icy lake. The top film will have that "hole" in it like a fish eye. Oil coming out of an air line usually looks well, like oil. "Fish eye" is caused by a contaminant ON the surface that the paint can't stick to, so it gathers up around it leaving that spot bare.

You could sand it almost flat and apply more clear over it many times and it is pretty hard to see later if at all. I have even dabbed clear on a tooth pick into the "craters" (fish eye or dust) while the clear is still not fully cured and cut and buffed it later to near perfection. You can usually see something if you look close but this trick can save a "driver" job.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:39 AM
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Thank you for the reply.

I am afraid that the problem is worse than I thought. After sanding out the fish-eyes, when I appied sealer yesterday to do the spot repair, fish eyes started in the exact same spots. There is something nasty trapped in the paint that is very incompatible. I am going to sand the whole lid down to primer and start over.

For the future, how do you actually blend the color into the clear when doing a spot repair, do you gradually pull the gun farther and farther away so that you are only misting in the blend as you get away from the spot?

Thank you again
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Old 04-15-2007, 08:53 AM
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As you end the pass of the gun you sort of "flip" your wrist so the gun is pointing away from the panel before you let off the trigger so there is just air coming out.

This is a hard one to explain. But as you go back and forth with every pass of the gun you let off the trigger just enough to stop the paint flow, but NOT the air at the end of every pass (on both ends of the pass). When you are blending it out you just "flip" your wrist a little so you don't get an abrupt end to the pass.

Brian
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