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Old 05-30-2012, 12:07 PM
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How to Start an Engine on the Stand

Hello All!

*Note: I've already searched the forms and cannot find what I need but would appreciate if someone could point me to an existing thread if there is one*

I'm looking for some detailed instructions on how to wire and start an engine on the stand. I recently rebuilt a 350 and I'm under a time pinch (aren't we all) to get the car rolling. I got as far as putting everything together, but I want to make sure it runs somewhat 'well' before swapping out. I have an HEI distributor, and the other essentials (batt, fuel, etc...) but I don't know how to wire it all up.

Also, I only plan to get the engine to run long enough to know that it runs and tune it later when it's in the car. I will not have a radiator hooked up but can try the ole garden hose if needed. Does anyone see any problems with this since it will not be running for more than 30sec - 1min at a time?

Thanks for the help,
~Mike

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Old 05-30-2012, 12:37 PM
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Hey Mike,

This video should be of some help. Seems to answer all of your questions and concerns. Good luck.

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Old 05-30-2012, 12:51 PM
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Thanks

Thanks for the reply, saw this video earlier today. This doesn't really clarify things for me. This guy is using a coil and not an HEI distributor. I could really use a wiring diagram or some detailed steps on how to get this thing started.
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:37 PM
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Found a couple of things on Google.




Quote:

i would really like you to try a bypass direct wire between the BAT terminal in the cap of the HEI... and the battery positive ...

so you eliminate the entire wiring harness..

i start engines on engine stands with just a few wires.... a ground cable from a battery on the ground to the engine block...

a positive cable to the starter top post...

a remote starter button hooked to the starter solenoid...

and a 10 or 12 gauge wire with a switch in the middle .. plugged into the bat connection on the hei and the other at top of the battery...


By waynep7122 on Hot Rod Pitstop . Found at http://forums.hotrod.com/70/8636159/...#ixzz1wNYxEcJL



Here is another, more basic thread from the Corvette Forum : "HEI distributor hook up?"
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Old 05-30-2012, 10:52 PM
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You say rebuilt. If that means new cam and lifters you'll need to run it at 2000rpm for 20 minutes so you'll need a rad set up to run it that long.
Can't run for just a minute or two or you'll have a flat cam. JMHO.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:07 PM
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This is really what I was looking for...

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Old 07-31-2013, 02:17 PM
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Is this right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FishSticks View Post
This is really what I was looking for...

I've been looking all over the internet for a simple schematic for wiring an engine to test run on a stand with an HEI and a 4 point universal switch. But is this right? Shouldn't the ST post on the switch be wired to the solenoid and the IGN be wired to the BATT on the HEI? I have a late 70's SBC 350.
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Old 07-31-2013, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FishSticks View Post
This is really what I was looking for...

Even this is more than you need to simply start the engine on a stand. First, however, I hope we are talking about a well-braced run stand and not starting this on an engine stand. That's a good way to send the motor flying to the concrete.

Simply run a battery cable from the positive terminal to the starter post and from the negative terminal to someplace on the block. Run a 14 ga wire (with a toggle switch in it) from the + terminal to the BATT terminal on the HEI. Turn the toggle switch on. Use a remote starter button (or a screwdriver) to jumper across the battery post on the starter and the S terminal. Remove the screwdriver, er, starter button when the engine starts. Turn off the toggle switch to turn off the engine.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:10 AM
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Thanks. Wish I had that info before setting up the universal switch LOL. I already wired up the universal switch. Is the schematic wrong? I ran a wire from ST on the key switch to the spade terminal on the solenoid and a wire from the IGN on the key switch to the HEI "BATT" spade terminal. It seems to crank fine with this set up.
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:40 AM
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As far as the run stand goes, no, its not a run stand....Basically, I have the engine mounted to the engine bracket for my Porsche 914 (doing a conversion/Porsche hotrod) an its resting on a dolly/pallet. I've never started an engine out of a car before. This engine has 8000 miles on the rebuild (apparently). I bought it off Ebay and its been sitting in my warehouse for 2 years. All I want to do is see if it starts. If I do get it started, what kind of movement can I expect from idle to low RPMs?
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:59 AM
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How do you insert an image from my own files? Here's an attachment pic.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petes914 View Post
Thanks. Wish I had that info before setting up the universal switch LOL. I already wired up the universal switch. Is the schematic wrong? I ran a wire from ST on the key switch to the spade terminal on the solenoid and a wire from the IGN on the key switch to the HEI "BATT" spade terminal. It seems to crank fine with this set up.
God, yes, that schematic is VERY wrong!
Using that diagram, you would only have power to coil in the CRANK position, and the starter would run continuously!

This is how it should be:
"ST" is for "start" (crank position) and should be connected to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid.

"IGN" is for "Ignition" (Run Position) and should be used to supply 12V directly to the "BAT" terminal of your HEI distributor cap cover.




If you wanted to have the correct set of connectors for that purpose, NAPA sells them.

NAPA Echlin # HRK100

OR

Accel #170072 is a dual, molded connector for both BAT and TACH

I know you said you plan to have a very short run time, but if you're considering hooking up a radiator and running it for an extended time, you can make up a temporary guage panel like I did.

(I call it "When Betty Crocker marries Stewart Warner" )
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:06 AM
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Haha....a cookie tin, thats hilarious. My gauge holder was a cover I pulled from an old furnace. I just pieced it together with stuff I had laying around my warehouse. I thought that schematic was wrong. So, how much movement do you think i'll have if I don't bolt it down to anything? Late 70's SBC350 supposedly around 300HP. Thanks for the part numbers on the connectors. I will need ones with clips eventually.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:44 PM
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When I was young and foolish ... I started up a stock 351C -4V sitting flat on the ground with nothing but a few big wooden blocks under the exhaust manifolds to stop it from rolling on it's side. (No worries about falling when it was already sitting on the ground.)
I ran about a 1/2 pop-bottle full of gasoline through it, and even blipping the throttle a couple of times didn't cause any issues.

Being MUCH older (and just slightly wiser ) now, I might suggest that you throw that engine on a wooden pallet and screw some actual braces into place, and attach them securely to the engine mounting brackets.

Remember to wear your rib-stain camo t-shirt and to smile and wave at the neighbors.
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:09 PM
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Look this is how it works, Motor mounted! Not on a pallet !! Simple, Come on man!! you need to play!work it out!! junkyards do not do what you want to do see it is mounted.
















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Last edited by killeratrod; 08-01-2013 at 10:16 PM.
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