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Old 05-25-2008, 12:37 PM
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how to straighten this mess?

Let me start by saying this is my first try at outside bodywork.I did some straightening work on the firewall and it turned out OK.

For now lets just start with the lower half of the door,I'll get to the top half later.

These doors were striped and DA sanded with 80 grit.Then sanded with SPI epoxy primer.Before I but on any filler I took a 16" sanding board with 180 grit and scuffed the surface using the diagonal sanding strokes that I read about here.There were any dings and afew low spots that showed up because they didn't get scuffed. I decided to just put the filler were the low spots and dings are.As I was sanding it out ,in the diagonal pattern with 36 grit this is what I got.( Hope the pictures load)

I should say that the door metal is flexible and probably was moving as I was sanding. I was trying to not push down and let the paper do the work.I used a straight edge on the door and I looks like the sand through are high bit that didn't show up when I was scuffing it.

Do I sand it all off and start over? Do I skin coat the whole thing and re sand?Do I have to reprime before refilling?My biggest worry was that I will somehow change the shape of the door if I skim coat the whole door before sanding. I have no clue what to do at this point and to think I still have the rest of the car to do
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Old 05-25-2008, 12:50 PM
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It doesn't look that bad. I would recoat the whole thing and sand it with a long board trying not to push to hard when sanding.
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Old 05-25-2008, 12:52 PM
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well this just my 2 cents ive was told a long time ago that the best body man would be a blind man so close your eyes and run your hand lightly along the door and feel for high or low spots and as you come to them mark with an X. or maybe you coluld buy a replacement door, seems like it shouldnt be to hard of a fix, really dont look that bad from here but cant tell without being right there.
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Old 05-25-2008, 01:33 PM
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Bodywork........

Hi,i would take a LONG flexible ,straight edge piece of wood (1/8 inch doorskin) home depot,and add about 1/8 inch of bondo,on the entire door, and using a long ,straight,stiff, board(longer than the door is wide)with 80 grit sticky back paper,i would sand diagonally both ways (X)sanding most of the bondo back off.before you bondo,shoot the door with epoxy primer.bondo on top of primer. after you prime and bondo,take a spray can of cheap black paint,and put a dust coat on the bondo.that way you will be able to see where youre at when sanding.low places will still have the black paint on them,when it looks like you are going to sand into the primer,stop,check youre work for low places,re-bondo if needed.if nice and straight,prime the bondo with epoxy primer. bondo is hygroscopic,absorbs water. DO NOT use wax and grease remover on bondod surfaces. have fun....

Last edited by boatbob2; 05-26-2008 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 05-25-2008, 02:03 PM
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As the others have said , get those steep edges with some 180 and float the whole door. Do one side of that body line and then the other.

Here's a oldie thread but still you can find the 3 secrets if you read it for grins anyway -->http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthr...6&page=1&pp=20

your close .. mabe go with Icieing next , tough to tell with pics sometimes ..
run a peice of masking tape on that line for now,



stay in there !

Last edited by milo; 05-25-2008 at 02:10 PM. Reason: went and found link
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Old 05-25-2008, 03:27 PM
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So I should spray the whole door with more epoxy primer and then skim coat it and re sand?
Wax and grease remover before epoxy? or will that soak into the filler and cause problems later?
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Old 05-25-2008, 05:08 PM
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No , you shouldn't use wax and grease remover..
People use wax and grease remover because people hear the vicious rumor that wax and grease should be used ,,

ya never heard it from me...

better off putting that stuff in the gas tank,
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Old 05-25-2008, 06:51 PM
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IMHO i would coat the lower half of the door the same way the top was coated and block it. recoat and block as needed.
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Old 05-25-2008, 07:14 PM
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I guess we all started out that way; trying to dab it on here and there, when we now know a panel like that should be a complete skim coat.

When I started, I figured a little here and there was easier to sand. It's not, really. That's because you end up doing multiple coats, where you might have gotten away with a thin skim over the whole panel.


I agree that you "appear" to be close...maybe close enough for the "icing" as was said.



Hi-build primer is my friend
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:14 PM
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Listen to FJ, that is exactly what I was going to say. Just by the looks of what you have I believe it is very close right now. A skim coat over the entire thing with a polyester putty like "Metal Glaze" or "Icing". And don't try to spread it all at once, FORGET THAT. You will not be able to pull it off. The trick is to spread as much as you can, usually about two square feet.

Spread it out over what you have and when you get to the of where you are spreading press it out thin. Feather it out thin and then spread the next application over starting right where you feathered out the last and spread it feather it over the edge of the last one. In other words this will keep the whole thing at the same thickness.

You DON'T have to have the thing spread all at once drying all at once. You can lay out that first app over a foot or so on the door and then let it dry while you clean your mixing board and mix up some more and lay the next app and then so on and so on until you are done.

You could also (which I recommend) spray it with three or four coats of polyester primer. Now THAT is real easy to block out, much easier than putty because it goes on so smooth.

But you could polyester prime it, block it with NICE, SHARP, NEW, 80 changing paper often. An 18" long board will work just fine.

Then after blocking the living hell out of it and you are lightly hitting metal here and there, lay a couple more coats of polyester primer and block with 120 and then 180.

That baby will be as straight as glass.

Brian
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:48 PM
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Thanks very much for the information.I'll respray epoxy primer tomorrow and let it cure for a day.Then recoat with filler than block out then spray with polyester primer that I'll have to purchase. It's a learning process as to when to stop sanding.I would like to have the least amount of filler on the car but still be straight.It's frustrating to be having trouble with one door and look over and see the whole rest of the car that needs the same kind of work.I'll keep posting pictures and asking questions if that OK.I'm hoping you guys that have done this before can keep me on the right track to finally finish this project that seems to never end.Believe it or not I've been working on this car as time and money permits for 6 years now.I thought I had it made until I started the body work.My friends keep telling me "all you have left to do is paint it and put it back together".Way easier said than done...
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Old 05-26-2008, 12:13 AM
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The thing is, I don't think you need any more filler. Just the polyester primer should take care of it.

Brian
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